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Head Gasket /Intake Gasket 22RE-What else should be replaced

86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Head Gasket /Intake Gasket 22RE-What else should be replaced

Old 12-12-2018, 10:39 AM
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Head Gasket /Intake Gasket 22RE-What else should be replaced

Last week I noticed on cold starts my truck would stumble and sound like it was only running on 3 cylinders for about 30 seconds, then it would go into high idle and run good. I was leaning towards an issue with the IAC valve but last night I checked the overflow tank and it was bone dry. Now I just changed the oil last Friday and had topped it off (uh oh!) Opened radiator cap and it was low there as well.

Truck has not been overheating, antifreeze was not in the oil change from last week either. Dipstick shows oil appears clear, however just a small amount of white sludge on bottom of valve cover oil cap.

I added antifreeze and started truck up-It billowed white exhaust (inside a garage with ambient temp of 55 degs). So it appears either the head gasket has blown or maybe I'll be lucky and just the intake gasket?

Anyrate....This is a great running little engine that only has 147k miles. I know it has the factory timing chain and guide, so If the head comes off, I will replace that. But is there anything else that would be a recommended replacement while I'm there? Head bolts I'm assuming? Anything else?

Also if the head does come off, I can't see any reason not to buy a reman head and have it all done and out of the way. Has to be cheaper than running mine through the machine shop. Thoughts?
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:40 AM
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If you get a reman head, get it from lce or 22reperformance. Not Ebay. Ask me how I know.

Get the block decked. Head too, unless its "new". I recommend OEM gaskets.
Get all new coolant hoses everywhere, especially under the intake. But look if the ones under your intake aren't infact leaking. You'd never really see it, but are loosing coolant.
New or flush radiator and flush heater cores.
Get new head screws. ARP studs or OEM.
Toyota red coolant after the flushing.
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Old 12-13-2018, 05:29 PM
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Don't forget the o-ring for the water heater pipe and other gaskets like the egr plate, cold start injector, crush washers, etc. I found a reputable shop that rebuilds heads and just gave them 8 valve seals since valves and springs were fine. Head looked brand new when I got it back, cost was $175. I know it may be a myth, but having a tight top end with new springs on a high-mileage bottom end can possibly lead to trouble.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:33 PM
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Buy the Toyota head gasket kit. It's called Engine Valve Grind. Lots of cheaper kits available if you are on a budget. I would be OK with the Fel-Pro improved design kit even though it's not a slipper plate design. I do like the Fel-Pro lower intake gasket with the rubber sealing beads around the coolant ports.

Osk timing chain kit made in Japan. Osk is same company that made the original. Personally, I installed a Cloyes HD kit with driver side steel guide because I did not have the extra money for the Osk kit, and then on top of that order a driver side steel guide. The Osk kit comes with plastic guides.

My local automotive machine shop that I trust was real busy when I needed head work done 1.5 years ago. It was going to be like six weeks before they could even work on the head. I bought an Enginetech new complete cylinder head with cam for about $250 shipped from RockAuto. Also, bought a new set of Enginetech head bolts. Round about 15,000 miles later, and it's still doing fine.

I installed a new Denso oil and water pump.

Get the fuel injectors cleaned and tested for flow. Cold start injector can get really dirty too, and gunked up with carbon. You might want to send it off for cleaning along with the fuel injectors.

Inspect the rocker assembly for excessive wear. My assembly looked OK to me, and it's still doing good. If I would had enough money at the time, I would have rebuilt it myself with new tubes and new rockers.

Inspect and clean EGR valve. Mine had about 189,000 miles on it, and it was at least half way clogged with hard carbon. Carb cleaner, flat head screwdriver, wire brush, and elbow grease cleaned it up.

Replace the three hoses under the intake. You can get all three Gates hoses cheaper than what Toyota wants for one hose. It was about $40 for one dinky hose last time I looked which is a rip off. Gates 18222, Gates 18223, Gates 18400

Change the fuel filter when you have it apart because it will be way easier to do with the lower intake out of the way. Remember which way it installs because it can be installed backwards very easily. Fuel filters should come with new crush washers.

Last edited by snippits; 12-14-2018 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:04 PM
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+1 Good post, snippits
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Old 12-15-2018, 02:41 PM
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the fitted oem coolant hoses can be purchased for about $50 total at toyota parts deal. i just ordered and replaced the four small hoses on my '87, and the price was fine, especially since they fit perfectly; no trimming needed, and they fit the tubing ends exactly.
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:23 AM
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Thanks for all the replies everyone, been super busy at work and have not had a chance to reply. Friday I got the head off (wow, what a mess of wiring!) and dropped it off Saturday morning to my machine shop. The gasket looked fine and I could not tell where the coolant had been slipping past. The shop called yesterday and said once the head was tanked, you could see the discoloration where it leaked into Cyl #2.

All of the cylinder walls look great and there isn't a ridge near the top of cylinders. Top of pistons although a little discolored, were free of carbon buildup (with the exception of piston #2 which looks brand new after it's steam cleaning!)

I've started cleaning the deck up and will get the factory head gasket and all the little ones as well. Thanks for the recommendation on the fuel filter, as I saw that and thought if I'm ever going to replace it, now is the time. The water pump has something funky going on as when I turn the shaft I'm getting a grinding noise, so it's going to be replaced as well, along with the timing chain set and possibly the oil pump.

Couple of times I thought this is so tore apart that I might as well pull the engine and just rebuild the whole thing, but I feel there is alot of life left in the bottom end.
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