I ordered mine from Marlin too (bushing and socket) yesterday, largely because of this thread.

I just KNOW my bushing is non existant. I can throw my shifter all over the place in my 1st Gen. In my 2nd gen, the shifter is so tight and responsive.

Figured I'd drain and fill my tranny as well, while I've got easy access. How much gear oil to get?

 

Heres a way to tell if its your syncro's. When you goto shift instead of trying to put it right in the new gear let the motor slow up for a second or two then go into gear. If it does grind its your syncro.

Whats happening there is that the syncro in a trans slows the gears so they can mesh w/o banging on each other from spinning too fast. A shotty syncro will take that second or two to slow the gear down instead of instantly like it should. My dads Stingray does it into 2nd gear from banging it during racing...

 

If it's never been changed, then it prob'ly is...hehe.

A little over 3qts...so, buy 4. Have it warm before you drain it. It gets more of the old out, if you didn't know.

That's good to know. I'd always have to slow to almost 20mph to shift down from third to second. Now, with the new oil, I can shift down at almost 30mph. I only do that if I'm at a sudden loss for power on a hill, though. Usually, I like to baby it.

 

I have heard a lot about GL-5 gear oil being too slippery for the synchros to work in these transmissions. However, all I can find is GL-5. Where do you guys buy GL-4 and what brand? I am also replacing my shifter seat, so I was planning on changing the oil along the way.

 

Too slippery? Hmmm....read this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=MT-90

I couldn't find GL-4 anywhere locally, either. I had to order over the internet...Summit Racing.

 

I used Redline MT90 for my wifes Rav4. It is a GL4 75W-90 oil. It smoothed up shifting a bit. I ordered it from Summit Racing. It arrived in 2 days.

 

well got my bushings replaced. Went out that night and got at her. Was a very easy swap thanks to the info!!! On a strange note when I took the shifter out I noticed that the bushing was in really good shape however......there was no bushing on the end of the shifter???? nothing!!! I looked around and found nothing?? The bushing didnt need to be replaced but i had the new one so i did and put the new bushing on the shifter and wow!! whata difference!! except for slicing my thumb real bad (does anyone know how to get blood off carpet?? the shifter feels like one from a new truck!! I couldnt imagine that it would make that much difference?? Thanks for the help!!! Next job is to get rid of the ADD hubs!! Thanks again for the help, this is the best site I have found for Toyos!

 

So, did you put a cap on the end of the shifter? I'm not if I understood you correctly on that. If not, you NEED to.

Hydrogen Peroxide will take care of that blood. Pour a little on and scrub. Rinse it well so as not to bleach the spot.

I don't understand....what's the deal with getting rid of ADD? They're quite good. Unless, your heavy duty off-road or does it really improve mileage THAT MUCH?

 

I saw about 1-2 mpg difference with AISIN hubs & a SIGNIFICANT decrease in steering effort.

 

Hey! Ya i put a busing on the end of the shifter!!! still cant believe the difference. Goes into gear a lot better. Thanks for the tip on the blood.!! The manual hubs mean that nothing is turning (cV joints)...less wear and tear and u will see a diff in the gas mileage. I will be pulling a hard top trailer this summer and with the price of gas I will need every mpg i can get!!!!!!

 

While the shifter seat affects the firmness of the shift lever, it does nothing to the synchro or the shift forks and rails.

I am pretty sure that it is your synchros. Do you get whining in the tranny when yo load it. ie when you are accelerating up hill?

Hope this helps,

Jon

 

Nope, no whining. But, I'm glad you asked. I've been meaning to post my results from switching gear oil. All the issues have cleared up with the new. Wasn't real noticeable at first, but after several days of driving it seems the MT-90 has a good chance to coat everything real well. It's shifting like it never has before. Real buttery like! I can shift all around with no issues now.

Thanks TN and Toyo. It seems at 1-2mpg difference it would take a little while for the switch to pay for itself, though. Which, in the long run there would be other benefits I'm sure, but boy it's an expensive swap for me right now. My wife doesn't want to do it anyway, so I suppose the whole idea idea is moot for the '92......HER '92! Ha!

 

Great thread and sounds like my issue. Thanks for the info!

 

I’m back to follow up on this thread. I replaced the shift and seat bushings and no change to up and down shifting to 2nd. It was still worth doing as I found pieces of the small rubber boot broken in between the bushings, not good. After more research here on Yotatech I changed my transmission oil with Red Line GL4 MT-90. I would have not believed it if I hadn’t done it myself, but I’m telling you. .. synchros in synch and the up and down shift grinding is GONE. It’s been a couple weeks now since the change and it’s still driving better than ever. Quieter, smoother, amazing. I know this is a 2nd/3rd gen 4Runner thread, but speaking from my 1st gen pickup and simular issues, thanks to everyone here for the recommendations!