I just went wheeling, and fully submerged my truck in mud and water...

so, now im thinking, what i should do, as far as regrease or lube.
is there a list of stuff we need to do after getting everything wet, (w/no visible leaks, oil and coolant are still fine.

 

Define fully submerged.....

 

common thinking on the subject is too change rear end lube if the rear end was submerged. Also probably a good idea to change fluids/ lube in anything else that was submerged

 

I would say, grease the zerks on the suspension(if any) and driveshaft joints and change out the fluid in the front and rear diffs and probably the transfer case if you're rocking 4x4. Also, if you're gonna be traversing water like that regularly, the differential breather mod would probably be a worthwhile investment.

 

yup front and rear end fluids, (if you dont have a diff breather extension) and grease your u joints, (if they have the fittings) and xfer case, i just changed my tranny and xfer, and for some reason my xfer had lots water and my tranny didint have any.......dont they breath through the shifter seats or somethin?

 

water was starting to come through the doors.
basically just below the headlights (and air intake luckily)...

thanks.
i will lookup this breather mod, and just re-lube w/ what types of grease, (i know i have the zert fittings under the truck (its a 4x4).

3.0 4x4 kingcab

 

For the slip yokes, very important to use a moly grease. Other prop shaft & chassis points don't require moly, but won't hurt. Wheel bearings, use a good high temp bearing grease.

May want to get yourself a can or two of Boeing's Boeshield T-9 - developed to protect aircraft, it's a dielectric corrosion preventative/sealant/dry lubricant. Excellent for protecting spare tire winch, exposed parts of parking brake linkage/bellcranks, wiring etc. Dries to a waxy film.

 

Pull the driver's side visor down and lube everything it says with the lube it recommends.

Honestly- common sense: Ask yourself "Did [insert part name here] go under water?"
If the answer is yes, [part name] should be at least checked for water intrusion and cleaned / dried / lubed as necessary. If it didn't go underwater then ... maybe as yourself if it could've had a wave splash over the top and if that answer is yes, at least a cursory check is warranted.

 

Do they sell that at Autozone?

 

HAHA no.

Aside from Amazon or other online vendors, you'll find it at most bike shops - they use it on chains, derailleurs etc. REI carries it. It's awesome for marine applications - almost any marine supply store will carry it. Carpenters use it to protect table saws & other tools from rust - spray on & wipe off so you might possibly find it at a good building supply or woodworking supply place...

 

so i found "GL-5" IS recomended by all the stores. and couldn't find GL-4 in the gallon size.
can i use GL-5 all over (x-fer case/ tranny and diff ) ?

got the grease gun, and oil pump to do the job tomorrow.
i guess i will remove the fillup bolts 1st !

 

GL-5 is required for the diffs; Toyota sez trans OK with GL-4 or -5; Trans supposed to run better with GL-4, most use Redline MT-90 GL-4; My trans worked OK with GL-5(one place put Mobil 30W motor oil in it!), maybe it's slightly nicer shifting now with the GL-4; TFR can be either.

 

thanks.

for the record, there was NO WATER in any of the diffs, tranny, or tran-x case... (which is the reason i began with).
i guess, i wont worry about romping it under water much more either...it was really fun, and i feel better my drivetrain is more watertight than a frogs butt

whats needed
24mm socket (6" extension for the front diff fillup) (wrenches don't work on front/rear diff drainplugs)
19mm wrench for fillup bolts
8 crush washers ( 16 dollars from dealer)
2 gallons of fluid ( 20 dollars)
liquid transfer pump ( 5 dollars)
hi-temp grease ( 3.49 for big tube)
grease gun ( 9.99 from harbor frieght)