stefanc

In the midst of rebuilding the top end, I have everything almost buttoned up, when I look up and notice the broken tip. Must have bumped it when installing the fuel rail. Oh well.

I was wondering if anyone had a picture of the fix with the barbed connector?
The one that I was able to pick up is this one: Gates 28551 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1.oap?pt=N1170) which is the y-Connector (one outlet which I would plug with maybe RTV?). The OD is .09375 and I wasn't sure if that would be too big or not to "snap-in" like was described by Chuki.

P.S. I was able to just superglue the broken nipple on...but I don't know if I should trust that to last and just repair it with this. Any opinions?


Cheers,

Stefan

scope103

Gluing did NOT work for me; all of the plastic was very crumbly, so I was gluing to crumbs. (So you shouldn't feel bad that you broke it.) But if gluing works for you, then you're good.

Or, to heck with it: 90925-05047 $62.28 OEM, $37 from :

Six7One_505

How important is this part if you've done an EGR delete? I just broke the top nipple.

scope103

The TVV has nothing to do with an "EGR Delete" (or the problems that messing with the EGR like that will cause). The TVV allows he Throttle body to remove the condensed fuel vapors from the Evap Canister. If you just leave it "busted" you'll smell fuel, and eventually drip fuel onto the ground. I you bypass the TVV direct to the the throttle body, you'll have rough running with a cold engine. Your choice.

Six7One_505

Cool. Thanks for the info. Guess I will have to fix it.

jviers

I would prefer to repair (I'll have to do on a recently acquired 94 in need of HGs) with aluminum tube (brass would work too if you already have it).
I've had some I think heat-related failures with those little plastic (white or black) barbed Ts and connectors. Among others, I had to replace a plastic vacuum T at the front of my 5VZ when it cracked completely around one of the tubes--replacing it with a brass T worked much better and I don't expect to ever have to replace it. At least here in AZ most plastic gets brittle and breaks after a while.
You DO NOT want to be repairing this valve again, a toss-up anyway if you even could.

cindy

I used this slotted socket wrench from ebay. Cost me only $8 from China.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gray-Metal-...4383.l4275.c10

Cookms

Unfortunately didn't see this thread until after I'd ordered the OEM part from Toyota for $110 AUD and 5 weeks delivery.

This at least gets me on the road today. Never give up baby. Cheers!!!!

scope103

Let us know how long it lasts. And I hope yours is one of the "forever" fixes.

Ole Country

Same problem here. Broke both nips off in April 2019 when I completely disassembled my 1991 pickup, I blasted/primed/painted/undercoated entire frame. Rebuilt most of the motor. Replaced the entire brake line system with larger line. New fuel line, filter and pump. Repainted the cab, hood, doors, fenders and bed since she was in great shape with only a little surface rust starting. I have the 63" leaf springs but waiting for the $ to buy or fab the hangers and such. I added 1 1/2 inch body lift. I have the disc brakes for the rear but same issue with $ there. Found a 85 solid front axle that the guy let me have for an old Mitsubishi Eclipse transmission I had. Started working on a tube bed and rockers. still scratching my head as far as where to relocate the fuel tank (maybe). All this thanks to the TVV or BMVV or BVSV (what ever its name is). I tried to split the line and remove the broken nips but they just crumbled and I have not been able to justify spending $80-150 for a new one. Every bone yard I have been to (and it has been quite a few) has already had them robbed. I felt much better knowing that everyone else was having the same issue. Any who. This project started because I needed to replace the clutch/pressure plate/bearing and rear main seal. I just came in from loading my trailer with an old Dodge rust bucket and checked ebay to see if anyone had accepted my Best Offer of $20 for the BVSV. I decided to come here and troll as I do weekly to see what else I could tare up while waiting and happened across this fix from 2005. I have searched this problem at least monthly here and other sites and am now wondering why did this not show up on any of those searches???????? It has been 2 summers down but finding this thread has re-inspired me.
You guys are the greatest for helping each other out and I love the ingenuity found here. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I am one happy (soon to be) trail runner again.

Now I am off to the junk drawer to find those barbed "t" connectors that I have here somewhere and get this thing fixed and start putting the body back together

scope103

It does depend on what your time is worth. https://www.ebay.com/p/663537148 ($35 + $12.50 shipping)

I couldn't imagine trying to use one from a salvaged vehicle. All of them will be just as old as yours, and subject to the same deterioration of the plastic.