Mdumaw

Hey there, i just picked up my second rig tonight, its a 1987 4runner with the 22-re 5-speed. I think it will go along great with my 1986 22r-te!
It's not in bad condition, has a few dings and dents, but nothing to major. And i was stoked about it being the sr5, with the sunroof and all the power features!
I got it for 1500 plus the guy trailored it so i payed his gas.
And the bad, it pops out of first gear, and the rear window only rolls down by the switch and up with the key (that or it is the other way around)

I'm gonna pick up the marlin crawler shift lever sockets and ball seat. but am thinking since im in drivetrains class at Wyotech at the moment, that i might get their rebuild kit.
I figured while it was out i would replace the output seal with a MC seal. And i was going to do the clutch, now i was wondering if you guys recommended using the marlin crawler HD clutches or if i should locate a toyota clutch for it.

And not sure on the rear window anyone else have this problem?

Dont worry i'll get pics tomorrow its one in the morning now so no go for tonight!

Edit: It also has automatic hubs, and was wondering if anyone had a link to a write-up on converting to aisin manuals.
I probably could have searched, or maybe looked through my favorites list from hell, but im tired right now and its bed time!

Thanks for all your help

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on the new runner. On my 88 runner build #185 #186, I have several links to the rear window problem. Sounds like you just need to clean the switch. Take the bulb out first and getting the switch cover seperated can be a little trouble.

I have used both Marlins and factory shift lever socket seal sets and have been happy with both. Seems like most like Marlin.

I have never switched from ADD so cant help on that.

dubbsbetty

iTrader: (2)

X2 on the new runner I love my 86! What wyotech campus you attending? I graduate from Sacramento next wedsday for auto/ diesel. NE way, take the little switch out from the console, clean the connection with wd-40 then follow the wires and make sure they are not damaged or ne thing. For the rear window, take off the panel on the inside of tail gate, find the contacts for the key switch, might have to clean it up a bit, should be a three point contact pad. I had to scrape mine pretty clean then spray it with wd-4o. Also once you get a connection, move the window back and forth and spray some white grease all along the tracks and motor guides that will hlp keep her smooth. Good luck!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

:wabbit2:

Rjz5400

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ild-up-158644/

Ok now show us the pics.

Mdumaw

Ok, so i just ordered the marlin crawler shift socket and seat.

Oh and dubbsbetty im at the laramie campus doing the auto diesel course. i would have gone somewhere else but im not particularly fond of big cities or lots of people. And thanks for the info on the window.

Rjz5400 thanks for the links good info there.

And lastly wabbit sorry i stayed up to late last night and just got up. I'll go get the pics!!

blakefogt

waaaitingg

Mdumaw

Alright alright sorry it took so long, my buddy and i cleaned a bouch of ˟˟˟˟.

here they are. not perfect but not to bad:



The damage to the rear bumper here just BARELY dented the tailgate not to bad



The damage to the fender here just barely missed the door


only a few things were pretty sorry on this, not like my last truck


And shes just barely gettin broken in


Ok so i drove it around the parking lot today (not licensed) and it rattles (grinds maybe?) very quietly with the clutch not pressed, and if your in first it will grind a little as it pops out of first.

I was also going to do the battery intake swap, and was going to do the big 3 upgrade and was wondering what wire you guys use. i know theres info on this. but i would rather order some high quality 0awg. then getting some pos wire from ace. I heard welding wire is good??

toyobob

for the ADD to manual hub, Warn makes a kit that is very easy to install. I don't have pics, but I converted it in under two hours. The hardest thing was torking the 2 7/16" nut to 20 ft/lbs. that's a huge nut to a small torque! seems like the kit and hubs were only $175, but that was 6 years ago. I never had problems with the warn hubs, and I did serious off-roading!

Mdumaw

Hey thanks for the info on the hubs! I'll look into that kit!

Edit: also the antenna in the hood was done by the p.p.o. I just removed it. and it will look better with a hole until i fix that.

Mdumaw

Well after about 3 hours, and 120 bucks, plus 100 for insurance. it is now licensed, insured, in my name and what not!

Mdumaw

Ok so i was wondering if any of you new of a write up on how to fix the passenger seat or new what to do, it doesn't roll forward when you fold it forward.

StewsRunner

iTrader: (1)

This may sound kind of stupid but my rear window can be tricky. When I want to roll it down all the way I have to leave it about an inch because I have to roll it down before I can roll it up. So basically will it go up when you push down then up?

Mdumaw

I haven't tried that. I will have to! thanks! It works both ways with the key though!

Mdumaw

Ok. I got the rear window working!
As Dubbsbetty said, the inside of the switch needed cleaned. It was incredibly dirty, packed with sand and all sorts of nast grit. I also cleaned the other switches next to it, and got the window lock switch working. the spring inside needed bent a little and it needed cleaned. The last thing for the day was got rid of that ANNOYING buzzer. I just bent the 2 contacts on the buzzer, and it all works great! thanks for the help on that.

Oh and stew i would try cleaning that switch just get all the contacts really clean inside. you may have to scrape some gunk off.

toyobob

For the passenger seat, there is a wire that connects to the lever at the front of the seat and goes under the seat to the lever on the side of the seat. this wire might have come loose or broken. I would check that for the cause of it not sliding forward when you fold it forward. Hope this helps.

tomsteff89

Cograts on the new toy! I have used a product called Krud Buster from Walmart. I removes rust, corrosion and protects the metal for a year. It restored a 39 year old three position switch on my 1973 boat. It works great!

The wire can be repaired, I used cable from the hardware store and cable crimps to repair mine.

Hope this helps.
Good luck!