First gen 4runner hard top modification
10-26-2009, 08:28 PM
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First gen 4runner hard top modification
Alright I made a new thread at the beginning of the summer asking about a hard top being cut down to make a canopy. I found a few at the scrap yard for like 10 bucks a piece. I had a little different Idea...Hope you like it. I do...
As you can see it was a perfect cannidate since all the windows were knocked out and the frame was rusted. I have a few do's and don't to add. Do take the metal frame piece off that holds the headliner felt on before you start cutting.. I left the felt on because it was glued on WELL. I just painted it black with spray paint when I painted the rest.
Do measure twice and cut once, although fiberglass is easy to repair it just takes a lil more time.
There is the metel frame that holds the headliner in. Skill saw does not like cutting it wery well.
As you can see the top is hollow in between.
So i decided to fill it with foam ( sprayable insulation) all the way around to fill the gap. BAD IDEA!!!! I ground it down even all the way around and put a layer of bondo on. Once again BAD IDEA!!! Once all said and done the foam along with vibration made the bondo start cracking. I recommend filling it with glass and grinding it down even then a layer of bondo to finish it.. I have painted cars and done bodywork for 25 years, you would think I'd know better than to cheat like that but since it is mine and I was pressed for time I thought "what the heck" lets cheat and see....lol
Did a lil repair on the front where it was damaged from the origional 4runner, You should have seen that one. Yup in the back ground is my next project, 88 3.0, doing a manual tranny swap. I have a top for it as well
After I got all the repairs and the edges finish sanded smooth with 180 grit I spayed it with black rubber undercoat. You can also use rocker guard or even bedliner spray. It comes from the factory with a little texture, plus the uncercoating or something with texture hides all the repairs with no priming and finish sanding. Then some spray paint if you so desire. I went over it with a satin black for a even finish.
Here it is finished.
I plan on cutting the back off even with the bar, just got in a hurry and forgot it. Oh well maybe i can fix it when I fix the cracking bondo...lol
Please forgive my spelling and grammer. I double checked it but its late ...
Guess I should have cut the grass first...lol
A
As you can see it was a perfect cannidate since all the windows were knocked out and the frame was rusted. I have a few do's and don't to add. Do take the metal frame piece off that holds the headliner felt on before you start cutting.. I left the felt on because it was glued on WELL. I just painted it black with spray paint when I painted the rest.
Do measure twice and cut once, although fiberglass is easy to repair it just takes a lil more time.
There is the metel frame that holds the headliner in. Skill saw does not like cutting it wery well.
As you can see the top is hollow in between.
So i decided to fill it with foam ( sprayable insulation) all the way around to fill the gap. BAD IDEA!!!! I ground it down even all the way around and put a layer of bondo on. Once again BAD IDEA!!! Once all said and done the foam along with vibration made the bondo start cracking. I recommend filling it with glass and grinding it down even then a layer of bondo to finish it.. I have painted cars and done bodywork for 25 years, you would think I'd know better than to cheat like that but since it is mine and I was pressed for time I thought "what the heck" lets cheat and see....lol
Did a lil repair on the front where it was damaged from the origional 4runner, You should have seen that one. Yup in the back ground is my next project, 88 3.0, doing a manual tranny swap. I have a top for it as well
After I got all the repairs and the edges finish sanded smooth with 180 grit I spayed it with black rubber undercoat. You can also use rocker guard or even bedliner spray. It comes from the factory with a little texture, plus the uncercoating or something with texture hides all the repairs with no priming and finish sanding. Then some spray paint if you so desire. I went over it with a satin black for a even finish.
Here it is finished.
I plan on cutting the back off even with the bar, just got in a hurry and forgot it. Oh well maybe i can fix it when I fix the cracking bondo...lol
Please forgive my spelling and grammer. I double checked it but its late ...
Guess I should have cut the grass first...lol
A
10-26-2009, 08:34 PM
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I like it, and its a hell of a lot cheaper than the tops I've been looking at. I think if i do it I'm going to find some 2" bar clamps to hold it on in the back, not a huge fan of the bungee cord thing but hey it works!
10-26-2009, 08:48 PM
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I'm thinking something like this should work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KCE6H4
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KCE6H4
10-26-2009, 09:08 PM
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[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Amanda/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]turn the clamps upside down using the flat to mount to the cover, find longer stainless steel hardware. And there you go.
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10-26-2009, 09:37 PM
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I was thinkin if you drill a hole through the top and the roll bar you could get some counter sink bolts to make it flush to the top and run down through the roll bar and use a nut on the bottom side of the roll bar to hold it down maybe even a butterfly nut for quick release if you want to pull it completely off for them really nice days.
10-27-2009, 06:14 AM
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I was thinkin if you drill a hole through the top and the roll bar you could get some counter sink bolts to make it flush to the top and run down through the roll bar and use a nut on the bottom side of the roll bar to hold it down maybe even a butterfly nut for quick release if you want to pull it completely off for them really nice days.
10-27-2009, 06:42 AM
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Thanks for the compliment. The leather interior is actually factory. But not leather maybe vynal. The floor has a mat from front to rear instead of carpet. It is a dlx instead of a sr5. Not sure if all dlx trucks come that way , I have only seen one other like this one and it is the twin brother to mine.
10-27-2009, 06:49 AM
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Thanks for the compliment. The leather interior is actually factory. But not leather maybe vynal. The floor has a mat from front to rear instead of carpet. It is a dlx instead of a sr5. Not sure if all dlx trucks come that way , I have only seen one other like this one and it is the twin brother to mine.
10-27-2009, 12:58 PM
#14
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If you can't find them let me know the size you need I have a few sitting around doing nothing with and if I have a set that will work for you I will send them to you.
10-30-2009, 07:21 AM
#18
I was thinking about doing the same thing, but in my head I thought about keeping part on to go down and bolt to the body. did quick photochop
It was a quick photochop, so I do not have the other side of the top in the pic.
It was a quick photochop, so I do not have the other side of the top in the pic.
Last edited by Lukifer; 10-30-2009 at 07:23 AM.
10-30-2009, 08:06 AM
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That last pic is what I've done to one of my tops, with the exception of no overhead coverage behind the rear seats. I'll try to grab some pics, but essentially I wanted a durable top to cover passengers but still have easy access to the rear for bike shuttles. It's been great, and this winter I'd like to fab up a tonneau that covers the rear.
11-02-2009, 09:03 AM
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That last pic is what I've done to one of my tops, with the exception of no overhead coverage behind the rear seats. I'll try to grab some pics, but essentially I wanted a durable top to cover passengers but still have easy access to the rear for bike shuttles. It's been great, and this winter I'd like to fab up a tonneau that covers the rear.
