So...my 95 4Runner has needed front wheel bearings for a long time and I finally heard them squealing or making a scraping sound tonight so that's my motivation to replace them. What's a good place to order them online? I'm sure they are the originals with 164k miles on them. I guess I'll need the inner and outer and new seals as well.

 

toyotapartsales.com

 

Thanks buddy I'll check em out right now.

 

Or, just go to any good auto parts store and get a Timken set.
Those are super high quality bearings.
Here is what you'll need:

Timken part numbers are:

Inner seal: 710092
Inner bearing: JLM104948
Inner bearing race: JLM104910
Outer bearing and race (comes as a set): SET 47



Fred

 

If it were me I would check the bearings before replacing them..

You need a 54mm socket to btw.. Probably good idea to replace the star washers [lock washer] as well.

this will help:

 

Its also worth mentioning that the outer bearing races are somewhat 'pressed' into the hub, they dont just slide in. Not sure if a 54mm socket will be fat enough to use as a good socket to drive them in..

I dont have a 54mm socket, the first i tackled front wheel hubs the only socket in town that would fit was a 2 3/16" Craftsmen (can you believe not one part store had a 54mm socket!, ugh lol)..

anyway MY socket is perfect for driving in the races..

for getting them out a good long steel punch works good =)

 

Several parts to consider replacing along with the bearings are the seals, gaskets and the wheel bearing nut kit...and we have the 54mm (2.125") socket.

 

I certainly wouldn't use a steel punch. A brass punch is what you should use.





Fred

 

I bought a full set of front bearings and seals (Timken) for my truck at NAPA. Not too expensive and it takes me about two minutes to walk to NAPA from my house.

 

Bearing race steel is some of the hardest stuff on the planet. You can feel safe banging on it with anything short of another race. Including the hammer head itself.

Those suckers can be in there good and tight. Might do your expensive brass tool some serious harm, I geuss you could hammer it back straight though. More work. Just use a steel one and hope you don't bend IT.

 

I used a steel punch to knock my races out, I wasn't planning on reusing them anyways.

 

89DLX, how much did it cost you for everything at NAPA?

 

NapaOnline has them for $25 and $30 each, their spendy ones. Cheap ones are like $12-$15. I've found the prices on there to be the same as in their stores, but you pay shipping on top of that. An added price for the convenience of not having to talk the idiot behind the counter through your order.
http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NO...d=8&SubCatId=3 second page has most of them.

 

I haven't had any problems gouging anything. They're not in there that tight, not like a rear axle bearing. =p

 

Definitely check before you decide that the bearings are the problem. From your description, it sounds like the bearings can be tightened and the noise is something else. Just my opinion.

 

Me neither, though if you were to be haphazard about it you could maybe mark up the rotor where it sits there. NOT A SEALING SURFACE EXCEPT WHERE THE SEAL SITS, which you'd have to get pretty carried away to mess up.


But SERIOUSLY people, take your old/used/scrap bearings (cage excluded) and races. Then TRY to damage them with something or in some way.

HAVE FUN! Try not to break anything of any value. Might need one of these here

P.S., when you do, please. NO CUTTING WHEELS ALLOWED, that's cheating. Grinding wheels, YES. You'll see they have little effect.

 

The bearings were tightened back in March. They have been going bad way before then.

 

I'd like to see what a bad bearing looks like.

picz plz =)

 

I forget the price, but it was under $100 for the seals, bearings, races, and grease.
Mine weren't bad, I was installing new rotors, calipers and pads. So, while I was in there I replaced everything. Paranoid? I don't think so.