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ive had a blast builidng and restoring my 4runner, but there is a reason i buy these trucks and that is specifically for their offroad prowess. i did my best at putting together a high quality IFS kit without doing something outrageously expensive like a coilover conversion. i am running a 4crawler BJS and OME torsion bars which help keep a good ride height with my bumper and winch. it flexes well for IFS, actually it will run the steering components into itself on full flex which sucks but is impressive in its own way. this was the first time i have ever purposely sank money into and IFS truck, all OEM parts right now including the new idler arm and pitman arm. but what i finally realized is that even the best IFS simply doesnt like larger tires. i am only running a 33' and the alingment is a huge PITA, sacrafice camber and caster for the sake of getting your tires to clear fenders or the shocks from hitting your bumpstops. i have solid axled several other trucks, but my main goal with those was trail beater only. i have decided to SAS my 87 with ther main goal of keeping it low and keeping it clean looking. parts on order are all from SKY, to include their new-ish ultra low profile front hanger. im using their version of the RUF spring packs also. i am pretty dang sure ill need to move my steering box forward, but i really hopy to not have to trim into the rad support area. id like to stay at my current 33 inch tire, possibly up to a 34. ill use this thread as my progress. ill also end up selling off my front IFS stuff, as most of it is pretty nice and new. honestly what im most NOT looking forward to is modding my ARB bumper to fit after the SAS, but i will because i love that bumper.
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Also since you’ve experienced SAS conversion..my friend is trying to give me his land cruiser solid axle for my 3rd gen pickup. I know anything is possible but I would only proceed if it was economically better since I’d be getting the axle for free. Also pickup/4Runner solid axles are harder and harder to come by in the aloha state.
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Also since you’ve experienced SAS conversion..my friend is trying to give me his land cruiser solid axle for my 3rd gen pickup. I know anything is possible but I would only proceed if it was economically better since I’d be getting the axle for free. Also pickup/4Runner solid axles are harder and harder to come by in the aloha state.
Unless they’re 80 series axles I’d say pass. The widths are all wrong for a 40/55/60/62. And if it’s an 80 the reason people don’t pick them is because of the radius arm suspension they are set up for. At least, that’s my opinion lol.
I just installed a Rough Country IFS lift on my 93. There was that moment when the IFS and front diff were sitting on the floor, I thought 'If I'm gonna SAS this, now's the time'. But I had neither the parts nor the time, and a box of RC parts at my feet.
So for now still IFS. I look forward to seeing your build.
Just going to put my plug against about BJ spacers. They suck. They mess up the suspension geometry. I had BJ spacers and 31's and it went through joints like crazy. After that I had 33's on my stock front end with no BJ spacers for years. I did hammer the pinch weld but that was it. No rubbing. Didn't have any problems with reliability with all stock front end parts. Still SAS'ed my truck though.
If you've done a SAS before, you know there's only so much space under the frame rail. Keeping it low means either sacrificing travel, or modifying the frame drastically to raise the arch over the axle. For me, the limiting factor was the steering arms. They will hit the frame first if there are no bumpstops. With the steering arms touching the frame, you're pretty close to the factory ride height of a stock IFS truck. That means, if you want to have 4 inches of travel, you're going to have to lift it 4 inches over stock. Probably a bit more in reality because you need room for the bumpstops to compress. I tried to do a low SAS also, used the Low Range Off Road low profile hanger, stock length shackles, and a RUF pack from factory 1987 4Runner rear set and some other leaves mixed in. I recently added a winch and bumper so I'll have to measure again to see where it's at now. Right after I finished, my SAS'ed 4Runner on 35's was 9 inches taller than my completely stock Pickup on factory size 29's. The 35's would add 3 inches by themselves, so that means the lift was about 6 inches. It probably has settled a bit since then, but I'm just trying to show low is difficult.
I have an ARB bumper also which was originally for an IFS truck. I modified it to work with a SAS. Let me know if you need any help with ideas for mounting and modifying it.
My .02? I wouldn't even bother with keeping it low. I was heavily against the "height" of an SAS'd rig in my youth and after spending time around SAS'd rigs, I eventually wished mine was just as high
Just going to put my plug against about BJ spacers. They suck. They mess up the suspension geometry. I had BJ spacers and 31's and it went through joints like crazy. After that I had 33's on my stock front end with no BJ spacers for years. I did hammer the pinch weld but that was it. No rubbing. Didn't have any problems with reliability with all stock front end parts. Still SAS'ed my truck though.
If you've done a SAS before, you know there's only so much space under the frame rail. Keeping it low means either sacrificing travel, or modifying the frame drastically to raise the arch over the axle. For me, the limiting factor was the steering arms. They will hit the frame first if there are no bumpstops. With the steering arms touching the frame, you're pretty close to the factory ride height of a stock IFS truck. That means, if you want to have 4 inches of travel, you're going to have to lift it 4 inches over stock. Probably a bit more in reality because you need room for the bumpstops to compress. I tried to do a low SAS also, used the Low Range Off Road low profile hanger, stock length shackles, and a RUF pack from factory 1987 4Runner rear set and some other leaves mixed in. I recently added a winch and bumper so I'll have to measure again to see where it's at now. Right after I finished, my SAS'ed 4Runner on 35's was 9 inches taller than my completely stock Pickup on factory size 29's. The 35's would add 3 inches by themselves, so that means the lift was about 6 inches. It probably has settled a bit since then, but I'm just trying to show low is difficult.
I have an ARB bumper also which was originally for an IFS truck. I modified it to work with a SAS. Let me know if you need any help with ideas for mounting and modifying it.
some valid points. But some of this is opinionated. While it’s true you can stuff 33s under a stock suspension, the preload on the torsion bars required is..like all of it. And it rides like hit garbage. The BJS spacer method, while it DOES play with geometry, allows for greater downtravel and allows a light preload on the bars and grants you a pretty smooth ride. It’s give and take, but in my opinion a small BJS is a better route than maxed out tbars.
the lift I’ll achieve with the SAS should equate to around 4” between the SKY packs, boomerangs, and front hanger. Which should be plenty to clear the chassis. I’ll also push the box forward slightly and angle it a bit for the pitman arm I bought (mild drop). When you say travel is limited, you’re half right. Only up travel is limited, if the bumps are installed like they need to be. Downtravel will be pretty significant. I did a RUF on my 1980 pickup last year with some 2nd gen pickup packs and it was amazing.
My .02? I wouldn't even bother with keeping it low. I was heavily against the "height" of an SAS'd rig in my youth and after spending time around SAS'd rigs, I eventually wished mine was just as high
spend any time in rocks? Height it your enemy. Last one I sas’ed was insanely too tall. Used a box kit from all pro. Had to remove several leaves to get her down. Wanted to roll over on even mild obstacles.
spend any time in rocks? Height it your enemy. Last one I sas’ed was insanely too tall. Used a box kit from all pro. Had to remove several leaves to get her down. Wanted to roll over on even mild obstacles.
What was the height? What was the shackle geometry? Blocks? Chevy 63s? Dual shackle setup? Typically, when the suspension wants to unload it's because it's not setup correctly.
some valid points. But some of this is opinionated. While it’s true you can stuff 33s under a stock suspension, the preload on the torsion bars required is..like all of it. And it rides like hit garbage. The BJS spacer method, while it DOES play with geometry, allows for greater downtravel and allows a light preload on the bars and grants you a pretty smooth ride. It’s give and take, but in my opinion a small BJS is a better route than maxed out tbars.
the lift I’ll achieve with the SAS should equate to around 4” between the SKY packs, boomerangs, and front hanger. Which should be plenty to clear the chassis. I’ll also push the box forward slightly and angle it a bit for the pitman arm I bought (mild drop). When you say travel is limited, you’re half right. Only up travel is limited, if the bumps are installed like they need to be. Downtravel will be pretty significant. I did a RUF on my 1980 pickup last year with some 2nd gen pickup packs and it was amazing.
I'm sure if you've done it before you've got it pretty worked out. My torsion bars were cranked less than 1/2". I think I did two or three rotations of the adjust bolt. I didn't notice any change in ride quality. You're right, only up-travel is limited by the stock frame, but having a good amount of up travel is pretty important on a street rig. You don't want to be bottoming out pulling into driveways or driving over bumps and dips in the road.
I have to agree with arlindsay1992 on the ball joint spacers. I used them for a while and my alignment was never optimal and I went through idler arms. I removed them and installed low-profile upper bump stops. This setup gave me the SAME amount of down travel that I had with the spacers. My torsion bars (SAW) are adjusted so I am pretty much right in the middle of the upper and lower bump stops. Ride quality is very good on and especially off road and alignment stays within spec.
started the sas. first impressions are that it will be significantly lower than common kits such as trailgear or allpro, exactly what i wanted. parts are quality from Sky. the spring packs are USA made which is nice. hardest part was burning the front shackle tubes in, if i had to pick. i fully expect to clock and move the steering box forward but i dont know how much yet. will see once i get the steering arms on. just eye balling, id say the front sits about 2 inches higher than the rear which has OME packs, so about 2.5-3 inches of lift. ill do some exact measurements once have tires on the ground.
Aug 21, 2021 | 07:13 PM
