94forX4

Hello everyone. I have a 94 pickup, 22RE 5 speed 4x4 with around 156k. It had been sitting for awhile before I bought it with a few problems to fix for $250. I got it running good with a new set of plugs but now the tank looks like its leaking or something above the side seam near the tank. Everyone tells me expect everything to break but what does that really mean? Am I going to end up needing a tank, straps, fuel sender unit, and possibly lines? I plan to tear it down this coming week. Thanks for any help!

Josh_Br

I have a 1990 4x4, and had to replace the gas tank. There are two parts inside the tank that are bolted to the top of it. One is the bracket that holds the fuel pump down in the tank, and there are a few lines coming up out of it. The other is the device that measures how much fuel is in the tank. If your truck is anything like mine, the screws that bolt those two parts to the top of the tank are rusted beyond recognition. I ended up replacing the tank, the fuel pump bracket, and the part that measures the level of fuel in the tank. I think the tank was $200+, and the two parts I had to get from the dealer. They were around $250 - $300 for both. So it was about a $500 project.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you live any place where you have a winter pretty much plan on changing all the above parts and then some.

Last I looked Toyota`s did not have straps.

94forX4

I must be missing something because couldn't you just cut or break off the rusted bolt heads with a turbo socket/easy out? Not like I am reusing the tank and that is what the threads are in correct? Or are the lines off the sender going to be so brittle they will be broke by the time the tank is down?

Also I realized after posting and talking to my buddy thats going to help with the project, it looks like that metal skid-plate deal is what holds the tank on somehow? Believe it or not I am somewhat of a mechanic working two years in an auto shop and five in a big truck shop, just never worked on a toyota up until now I guess. Thanks for the help so far!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On a pick up, I like to remove the bolts from the passenger side and loosen them on the drivers side of the bed, then tilt it up. Reason being is the lines dont have a lot of slack to drop the tank and then trying to remove them. Some do just drop the tank. It is a personal preference. Start soaking the bed bolts in PB Blaster or similar as soon as possible and depending on where you live some may break or the tab on top of the bolt that sits in the bed could bend and then you need to cut the bolt. I use a die grinder.

From underneath, you will need to remove the skid pan. They use a "Captured Nut" and I have had some of bolts to break inside the nut. You can use a regular bolt and nut to repair that. I just chisel the nut off of the bracket.

Once you get the skid pan off, you will have the same setup holding the tank to the frame on the front part and seems like the bracket is bolted to the rear of the tank and to the frame.

On the pick ups, the tanks tend to rust on top due to the mud just sitting on top of the tank. 4Runners are not so bad from my experience. The fuel pump bracket is the one you want to be gentle with, Seems like it is a 14mm and a 17mm for the metal line. Be gentle on the metal line, that can be a hard and expensive part to find and replace. In some cases I have dropped the tank and left the fuel pump bracket connected to the line.

Inside the tank it may look like rust. I have seen it 1/4 inch deep in severe cases. You will swear it is rust but in my opinion it is a chemical build up from the additives in the tank. I use white vinegar to clean the tank and when you get it clean, you will see there is no damage, pitting or anything else where the "rust" was on the inside of the tank.

Rust holes could be on the outside of the tank on top. If it is leaking, and just has some pin holes, Red Kote will seal them up. I have some more information on my 88 Runner build in the link below on the first page if you want more info on restoring the tank.

94forX4

So if I want to not break anything that isn't already broken take the bed off? Is it just a few bolts and taillight harness connections like a chevy full-size would be for example? Also your saying I can drill straight through the bed and just put bolts, fender washers and locknuts on if I have to break or cut them out?

94forX4

Taking the bed off to aid in not breaking things was what I was thinking in the first place. Just figured that would be opening another can of worms.

merrimanbrian

I've got a 1992 4Runner that's been leaking gas for the last 2 weeks, and today I lowered it enough to see that it was leaking from the metal lines running into the fuel pump. Under pressure it leaks badly. No luck at the parts store. Not even a schematic. Do I have to go back to a dealer for these fuel lines? How much should they run. Help please.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest taking bed off or tilting it to get access to the top of the tank. You may need to disconnect the tail light harness as you mentioned. The fuel pump assembly, if it is rusted or frozen that you cant disconnect the metal line, I will not mess with it. The metal line can be rusted or you can twist it that it will ruin it. So I will lower the tank and while lowering it, pull the fuel pump assembly out as the tank is going down. Just have to work both at the same time.

The top of the bed bolts have a tab that are inside of a box that keep them from spinning. I have not drilled thru and run bolts like you are mentioning so don't know about that. I always grab extra from the bone yard. Not sure if you have access to salvages and can do that or not but the dealer may sell them. I would suggest going that route if you need to.

Being that it is a truck, tap around on the top of the tank and make sure the mud did not weaken it or put rust holes into it. If it is solid, you can get away with cleaning and sealing the tank if you want to go that route.

Just be careful with the fuel pump assembly and the metal lines.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On a 4runner you can get access under the passenger rear seat. That metal line you are talking about is the one that is part of the fuel pump assembly. You may try the dealer but I would check the bone yards first depending on your area or ebay or similar. Dealer wont be cheap on that. You could even do a wanted ad if need be. Look thru the section where people are parting a rig out.

I don't know the 2nd gen runners as well and not sure if the lines are available still at the dealer or not. On the previous generation there is one that is no longer available. Still several other places to check if it is indeed the line instead of the fuel pump bracket.

It is under a lot of pressure and will leak when you power it up. Another thing that will cause it to leak more as it will increase the pressure is in about every truck I have worked on is the Return line is going to be clogged or the fuel pump assembly bracket has a return port on it and it too will be clogged.

In each of my build threads below, usually in the first part of the build, I try to show how bad the fuel systems get. The tanks, lines, the fuel rail that holds the injectors, and the fuel pump bracket return line can be full of nasty stuff or clogged.

I don't suggest trying to run fuel cleaner thru your system as you will dissolve 20-30 years worth of build up into your injectors and filter and have a bigger mess on your hands. The fuel system is out of sight and out of mind and gets neglected.

I get my fuel pumps off of ebay as the dealer or parts stores are expensive. If you keep your tank at least 1/8th or more you wont have to replace the fuel pumps and that isn't just ebay pumps but goes for Toyotas/Denso pumps as well.

I have talked to others and usually on the fuel system what they think is one issue turns into a bigger issue as they see all of the junk in the system. I think it is the poorer quality of fuel we are getting now a days and I suggest just being prepared to go thru the whole system.

I consider it a $60-$80 dollar fix. Depending on how much white vinegar I need, Red Kote and a fuel pump. I fill the return line with PB Blaster and let it soak the lines and clear them with a low pressure air hose. Letting the tank soak in vinegar and rotating it around one day to the next and coating the tank with Red Kote. You can buy new tanks but I am a cheap scape.

I have been thru the fuel system several times and the above is usually what I experience. Not a bad job, just takes some time.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You might still be able to buy a fuel pump bracket from the dealer for your 92 4runner.

Where it gets real exciting is replacing the lines which are just as brittle and most often crack or twist off quite easy.

Now it would be no big deal if one could find new flare nuts of the correct size to make new steel lines.

Some states can be real strict and if it had a steel line from factory that is what the line needs to be replaced with .

Remember your dealing with fuel injection pressures one needs to have fuel injection lines and clamps.

I can only use my own experiences dealing with the Pa winter chemicals people in the South have no idea.

While you have the bed off is a good time to do any needed frame repairs

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The stuff they use in the North/Northeast destroys trucks. One reason I wish more would at least post what state they live in. I bought a truck that was out of South Dakota and it was a prime example of what you are talking about.

One thing I did mean to mention, do NOT pull the drain plug out of the tank. Every time I have pulled a drain plug, the bolt will have so much build up on the threads that it ruins the threads in the tank and will leak. Red Kote and a rubber gasket will seal it back up but never again will I pull that drain bolt and not expect to have some kind of leak.