When I pulled the fuel sender out of the tank, it was very obvious that the rust on the wire windings which the slider moves along was inhibiting metal to metal contact, hence the gauge would drop out totally until the level in the tank dropped or raised past the rusty spot.

It tried removing the oxidation, but the wires are so small/fragile that they broke loose. So what I did was remove the section of wire that was oxidized and then gently twist the remaining sections together at the ends and then apply a bit of solder to keep them intact.

This in effect gives you continuous gauge readings, but the fuel sender is no longer linear in terms of reporting the fuel tank levels. Not really an issue for me since I keep a full tank as often as possible.

Hope this helps.

 

My gas gauge wasn't working for the longest time. Swapping gas tanks, clusters, better grounds, and everything i could think of. Then i followed the wiring harness a bit and noticed it was hanging and got smashed and a couple wires were exposed. Fixed them and works fine. Pretty obscure though...

 

mine was simple charge fuse blew (not sure how yet, but has been working fine since)

 

looks like I have a fun project then. I am picking up my second toyota ever today and one of the issues it has is at half a tank of gas, the gauge drops to empty. Works great from full to half though. The truck is an 86 22R 4x4 5Sp.

 

sounds like the fuel level sender in the tank, prob same deal as ahickman was talking about further up the thread

 

I change out my fuel pump in my 94 pickup, and now the fuel guage does not register the correct amount of fuel in tank, Could it be a loose wire , there was no float on it.

 

No float, like the one on page 35? http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../6combinat.pdf I can't imagine that the fuel gauge would register at all without a float.

Could you have knocked the float off the arm when you changed the pump?

 

 

This thread is to document what people have done to fix their problems. Did you read the posts?