My fuel pump doesnt kick on. I replaced my ecu because a water leak into the cab made it crap out. Trouble shooting why it still doesnt get power and pulled out the glove box to get to the relays. The two fuses were good they had a 10 and a 30 on them I believe. But I pulled the big one out and it had some green corrosion on it. Is there anyway to test this? Or any ideas on different options to try?

 

Hey have you tried shorting Te1 and Fp on your diagnostics plug?? could be wires? these pumps are good!! but u never hear them run man that stumped me years ago when I got my first one ! or do you have power at the pump?

 

Havent tried that yet, but the pump doesnt get power at all I dont think, no fuel comes when the keys turned or when you try to crank it. The relay doesnt click either. My fuel level sending unit works though. Thanks for your help though man

 

check the fuel pump ground wire.

 

If your ECU went, your COR almost certainly did.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...od-cor-252680/

 

Well I talked to the guy I got the truck from. He parked it because the engine wasnt getting fuel. He pulled out the ecu and lost it or threw it away, and he said the fuel pump still got power when he checked it with a volt meter. But that was 2 years ago. Im running to the junkyard tomorrow to pickup a new relay for a couple bucks just to see if its a cheap fix. I'll look into the COR tomorrow jbtvt. Thanks for everyones advice

 

There is a fuel pump cutoff in the airflow meter, you may want to check the meter. If the ECU thinks there is no air entering engine fuel pump will not work.

 

Most all relays have a diagram on them .

It is simple to make up some leads to pull in the relay coil (12 VDC ) then measure if you have continuity on the pins for the closed contacts.

You might want to also clean the socket the relay plugs in with electrical cleaner

 

Yes. With a multimeter. You have an electrical problem, and you need a meter to do anything. It's not like they cost anything. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html

Fp and B+. Don't ever connect Te1 to anything but E1.

The VAF holds the fuel pump on after you let go of the key. With the key to START, the fuel pump should run no matter what the VAF is doing

The COR (Circuit Opening Relay) is a different animal; I don't believe it has a diagram like "ordinary" relays. But checking it is pretty easy: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...38circuito.pdf

 

ya thats what I meant B+ and Fp !! sorry about that thats power yaay! on my old mustang I just wired it direct to a switch if its a big problem like an ecu or harness or something !