I have a '92 4runner 3.0, it seems that it doesn't want to hold pressure in the lines and I was going to test it myself to see if its possibly a faulty fuel pump. I have not been able to find a tester that fits toyota or any other import for that matter. I've checked Sears, Advance Auto, O'reilly, Snap-on Any ideas where I could find one or another way of testing? Thanks

 

Basically any fuel pressure gauge will work, but we need a compatible banjo fitting for the tester and a longer banjo bolt. Anyone have these sizes?

 

Did you ever get the presure tested... I am running up against the same issue, How do I test the fuel presure on my 95 V6

 

You need any fuel pressure gauge with a 1/8" npt fitting, plus a "Fuel pressure takeoff banjo bolt" like this: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...fit/fuel.shtml . Many of the "fancy" fuel pressure test kits come with a selection of such bolts.

 

where do I connect to the fuel system, on the driverside both cross over rails appear acccessible. Do I simply leave the crossover pipes in place and the longer bango bolt? Sorry but any help would be appreaciated. I have verified that both rails are presurized, not sure how much, but enought to allow the CSI to function

 

mac9968...here is a pic of my banjo fitting...this is what I used....it can be left in place or removed...I just tested my fuel pump today and found out my pressure regulator needs to be replaced....I purchased this kit and it has that fitting(THE ONE IN THE PIC ON EBAY WITH THE RED PROTECTIVE CAP ON IT)...http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

testing procedure
(a) Check that the battery voltage is above 12V.
(b) Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
(f) Install the No.3 fuel pipe and SST (pressure gauge) to
the LH delivery pipe with three new gaskets and SST
(union bolt) as shown in the illustration.
SST 09268–45012
Torque: 34 N–m (350 kgf–cm, 25 ft–lbf)
(g) Wipe off any splattered gasoline.
(h) Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
(c) Place a suitable container or shop towel under the LH
delivery pipe.
(d) Slowly loosen the union bolt of the No.3 fuel pipe and
remove the union bolt and two gaskets from the
delivery pipe.
(e) Drain fuel in the LH delivery pipe.
(i) Using SST, connect terminals FP and +B of the DLC
1.
SST 09843–18020
(j) Turn the ignition switch ON.
(k) Measure the fuel pressure.
Fuel pressure:
265 – 304 kPa (2.7 – 3.1 kgf/cm 2 , 38 – 44 psi)
If pressure is high, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
If pressure is low, check the following parts:
• Fuel hoses and connections
• Fuel pump
• Fuel filter
• Fuel pressure regulator
(I) Remove SST from the DLC 1.
SST 09843–18020
(m) Start the engine.
(r) Stop the engine. Check that the fuel pressure remains
above 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm 2 , 21 psi) for 5 minutes
after the engine is turned oft.
If not within specification, check the fuel pump, fuel
pressure regulator and/or injectors.
(s) After checking fuel pressure, disconnect the battery
negative terminal and carefully remove the SST to
prevent gasoline from splashing.
(p) Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure
regulator.
(q) Measure the fuel pressure at idling.
Fuel pressure:
226 – 255 kPa (2.3 – 2.6 kgf/cm 2 , 33 – 37 psi)
If not within the specified pressure, check the vacuum
hose and fuel pressure regulator.
(n) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure
regulator and plug it closed.
(o) Measure the fuel pressure at idling.
Fuel pressure:
265 – 304 kPa (2.7 – 3.1 kgf/cm 2 , 38 – 44 psi)
(t) Using two new gaskets, reconnect the No.3 fuel pipe
to the delivery pipe.
Torque: 34 N–m (350 kgf–cm. 25 ft–lbf)
(u) Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
(v) Start the engine and check for fuel leakage.

 

Great write-up. My question is, how would you test the FPR further?I know with the injector and fuel pump you can check the voltage with meter.

Also, in your picture where you have that fitting, do you leave it on and just throw the protective cap on? I guess there is some sort of check valve in there to prevent gas from squirting out when the gauge is not screwed on?

 

Thanks I just copied it from the F.M.S.
question #1...I'm not sure about further testing of the f.p.r looks like were both going to have to dig deeper in to that one because I think my f.p.r. is bad( I got excessive pressure ) I started another thread on this topic"F.P.R. blues"

question #2..I'm just leaving it on for now because if I have to replace my f.p.r. valve I want to recheck the pressure again, then if everything is good per specs I'll remove that valve and reinstall the bolt
The red cap is just plastic thread protector for the side you thread through the #3 fuel pipe banjo once you remove the bolt...I suppose you could just throw it away...and there is a schrader valve they call it similar to a tire pressure valve keeps pressure in... not sure if that's the correct spelling though

 

Fantasic, thanks BuckZ as always

 

Where did you buy the SST 09268–45012???

 

Try here for Toyota SSTs.