natty

Just a short write-up in case anyone who hasn't done it before is interested.

Experience: Performed plenty of service on my truck but never the injectors.

1. Haynes manual says to relieve the fuel pressure. Couldn't find where to disconnect pump and the manual didn't say. Also note that the FSM does not list this as a step. I bypassed the step completely but was careful when removing the two fuel connections necessary to complete the operation.


2. The manuals lists, by name, every hose and connector that needs to be removed. It would have taken a day to cross-reference all of those so I just very carefully, and methodically, removed everything one-by-one.

With tape and a marker, I lettered all of the plumbing/fasteners and numbered all of the electrical. Take note of which letters/numbers you used (ex: A-S, 1-10). When I put it back together, I'll know the general order and can check for completenes as I mark each letter/number off the list. I also took many pictures from different angles just in case I need to reference them.


3. After disconnecting everything I could see, I still had a couple of more connections that I couldn't see once I started lifting the air intake cover off. Once everything was disconnected, the cover came off easily.


4. With a lot of paper towels wrapped around the large fuel line nut where it connects to the fuel rail, I slowly cranked it off. There was no noticeable release of pressure and not much fuel that came out. Once you loosen the fuel rail, be careful when you tilt it because it contains some fuel that will spill out where the fuel line connects. Just be ready to soak it up with some paper towels.


5. Pulled the injectors off of the fuel rail and will now send them in to Witchhunter.


I'll update once I get them back and put the whole thing back together. In the meantime, I'll order the EGR gasket and the gasket at the bottom of the air intake chamber as well as crush washers for the large fuel line. Not sure if I need new crush washers for the small line at the top of the air intake chamber but will check on that.

EDIT: I do need to replace the crush washers on the small line as well.



11/18/11 UPDATE: Sent my injectors via USPS Priority Mail from Texas on the evening of the 15th. Got an email notification today, the 18th at 5:40 pm, that the injectors are in the mail back to me. That's about a 72hr turn-around time from when I put them in the mail to when they put them in the mail. Pretty impressive!



11/21/11 UPDATE: Got the injectors back in the mail today. So, 7 days total from the day I sent them until I got them back. Probably would have been faster but that included a weekend.

Here is a pic of what I got back. Sorry, but I didn't take a before pic. Just imagine these with a tan varnish all over them.




Here are the parts that were returned to me. Not sure how much damage is incurred in their removal process but I can say for sure that one of the pintle caps was broken in pieces when I removed the injector from the truck. Also, the small o-rings were all scuffed. It's possible that those two things were damaged during my removal.




And the interesting test results. Looks like in my case, it was an excellent choice to send them off. Note the gray fields that are hard to see. Gray is before, white is after.





I bought the crush washers and gaskets from Toyota for 27 bucks.
A) The fuel line (bolt and washers removed) and connection point to fuel rail. This is where the 2 large crush washers go (both identical). You can see the injector directly above.

B) The small fuel line that connects from the fuel rail at bottom to the Air Intake Chamber at top. I chose to leave the bottom connected so I only bought 2 new crush washers for the top (2 different).

C) The EGR gasket.

D) The gasket at bottom of the Air Intake Chamber.

Note that all must be replaced!


Here are links to all:
http://imageshack.us/g/10/imag0376a.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...itharrows.jpg/
I don't have time to install them for a couple of days but will update on the reassembly process.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Good Writeup!

I think you just pull a relay while the engine is idling, and that kills the fuel pump....engine will sputter and die, and you've relieved pressure.

This would be great with pics if you have them? maybe do some as you put it back together once the injectors come back from witchhunter?

TNRabbit

Which engine?

natty

Sorry, my sig isn't showing up for some reason.

95 Hilux Pickup
22RE

Will see about taking pix as I put it back together.

Also, an invaluable web site for finding the right parts as well as excellent schematics is:

http://www.toyotapartseast.com/

Better prices than dealer for OEM but the shipping is a little steep so it's best to order a lot of stuff at once to make it worth it. For the few gaskets that I need, I'll probably just go to the dealer.

scope103

Don't forget to replace each of the crush washers you removed. They're dirt cheap even from the dealer (which is pretty much the only place you'll find them).

The OEM washers are aluminum; some have used copper washers but I believe those are for brake lines. Some will also claim you can "reuse" an old washer by sanding it. It obviously isn't a crush washer if it's already been crushed, and don't forget that you're dealing with pressurized gasoline here. Get the right parts.

natty

Moved to main post

AZ89LONGBED

iTrader: (3)

Opening the gas cap relieves pressure in the system. Learned that the hard way, couldn't get fuel to stop leaking for a moment during disassembly. Nice write-up

betelnut

That's a handy trick to keep the fuel to stop dripping when the lines are disconnected. The air in the tank heats up as the day gets warmer, expands, and pushes the fuel out of the open lines.

The Haynes manual is referring to the residual pressure in the line between the fuel pump and the pressure regulator. If you open up that line without first relieving the pressure, it will squirt all over, and usually manages to be aimed right at your eye. Don't do it that way, but if you do, wrap a rag around it before you crack it open.

The correct way is to get a vacuum pump (I think AutoZone has a Mity-Vac hand jobby in their loaner tool program) and attach it to the vacuum port of the fuel pressure regulator. Give it a few pumps, should cause the regulator to open up and let the pressurized fuel squirt out.

natty

Updated today 11/21/11

I'll continue to update in the main post.

Smythley

Did the cleaning seem to help the truck?

natty

Yeah, it did seem to help. My buddy agrees.

The re-assembly was pretty painless except for the fuel streaming onto my driveway upon first startup! There is one hose toward the back, and on the bottom of the air chamber that I forgot to hook up. It was the one without a check mark next to it on my checklist which I figured I hooked up but forgot to check off. Wrong! Ooops.


I'm now having problems with the dreaded low/no idle when warm. But it ran GREAT up until a week ago. I'm giving up and paying for diagnosis. I'll do the work if not too involved.

knucklehead38401

I also clean and flow injectors and offer free shipping to Yotatech members.