I've searched all over with no luck, so hopefully someone will have some insight!

I broke a CV a while back, replaced it (over the course of a few months since we were moving) and now that it's all buttoned up, I'm binding when the hubs are locked in. It doesn't matter whether I'm in 2wd or 4hi/lo, it's only when the hubs are locked. I've heard of similar issues that usually occur when turning, but it's happening to me going straight. It binds to a point that it feels like I'm driving over a brick, but will then pop and release only to happen again. Thinking back to when I broke the CV, I think it was doing nearly the same thing. It also happens when I'm coasting.

My main question is what could it be (other than the cv's, both of which look good) that would only happen with the hubs locked regardless of transmission position? Or could I have missed a clip or something allowing the cv to bind and then partially slip??

I'm at a loss so throw out anything you can think of that may apply! Also, is my thinking correct that it wouldn't be anything in the diff since it happens in 2 or 4 and changes with hub engagement?

 

Hubs been taken apart lately? Any damage to hubs?

:wabbit2:

 

all I can think of is asking if you have a locking front diff or spool? ... or maybe the spiders in the front diff are siezed creating a locked diff.

locked in hubs means the half-shafts spin with the wheels and the only thing that'll create binding of the shafts even when you're in 2wd is a locked or frozen differential.

 

Hubs were taken apart and looked fine. Anything in particular I should be looking for though? waskillywabbit I was actually looking at some of your other posts on the topic when trying to diagnose! haha

No locker or spool up front. It will roll a decent distance without binding sometimes even when in 4wd and locked hubs so I can't imagine it being a frozen diff? I don't know though...could I have blown it apart and there's chunks getting stuck in the teeth sometimes? Seems like it would bind more than it does if that was the case, and it seems like it's more in the wheel end.

Also, if I were to lock one hub and not the other and it did it would that tell me anything?

 

with the hubs unlocked, nothing in the diff should be turning nor should the cv stubs be turning. locking the hubs connects the hubs to the shafts which then turn things in the differential

 

Drop the front driveshaft from the diff and transfer case. Lock the hubs and take it for a spin. See if it still happens.

Locking just one hub will only help to try and isolate the problem to one of either hub. The CV's will still be driven by the fact atleast one is turning the differential. It's just that the unlocked side won't have any power transfer to the hub. (hope the hell that made sense)

 

drive shaft as noted above. if you see nothing obvious, drop that sucka and give her another go, hubs locked. as stated above, again.

if you still have some major bindage i would just buy a whole 'nother front diff. guys sell em real cheap after they sas

 

Be sure you mark BOTH ENDS of the drive shaft before you remove it. They have to go back the same way or you'll have balance issues.

 

the prop shaft has a cardan / cv joint next to the transfer case so unless the front diff housing has been rotated or the front u-joint or shaft has been dissambled for some reason, the shaft will maintain correct timing.

 

Dropped the front driveshaft and no bindage...does that mean a blown diff??

 

do you have a lift? if so,how much?

 

No lift ... I'm real confused now!!! it does make a very faint clicking noise that sounds like it is coming from their front right when unlocked, but when locked is still binding. I pulled the hubs apart and they look good. Grrrr!!!!

 

This happened to me once after a hard day of wheeling. Popped the bearings in the cv and as the truck stopped hopping the bearing was forced? Into he cv housing. Mesed up my driver side cv and like your experince it only bend went hubs are locked. Doesnt happen when only one side is lock though. So... I replace the cv and what do you know. Haha try this.


Jack up the truck on front cross member just high enough to where tires are off the ground. Lock the hubs. Spin each tire with hand. And if you come to a stuck rotation you might have the same problem as me