Ah, what did you use to cut the holes? Dremel?

 

i used a utility knife to cut the speaker hole in the door panel and a dremel to carve the semi-circle out of the pocket.

 

Are those 5 1/4"s?
I was wanting to do the same thing but wasn't sure what kind of depth I had to work with in that same exact spot without interfering with the window.

 

Looks more like 6" or 6 1/2".

 

Look at MB quart's 4" component sets, I'm getting the PVI 210s. Thats 2x 4" drivers, 2x tweeters, and 2x crossovers. Those crossovers will allow you to ADD a 6" woofer after the fact and put it in the door like the pictures above. One of the better one's I've seen didnt slice up the map pocket, but slid it back some putting the driver in the lower front corner of the door. You can also go back and add the driver later when if you decide to get a stand-alone 4 channel amplifier like I do. 6" drivers are great for mid-bass, but not until you pump enough wattage for the speaker to make all the excursion it needs to in order to produce those lower frequencies at any volume. The 4" components, especially if your stock amplified rear components still work, should totally be enough sound to make you happy for the interim until you decide to build upon and not replace your upgrades. there should be 2x drivers in the trunk on the sides and 2x tweeters on the roof right by the rear window. If those are blown, bypass the amplifiers and get another component set. At any rate, if you use the amplifier built in to a dash mounted head unit, then you arent getting any more than 30 or so watts RMS per channel. My eventual plan will include a 4 channel amplifier powering a 3-way tweeter-4"driver-6"driver set in the front and a 6" component set in the rear (tweeters in stock location and drivers in rear doors, even though the closer the components together the better because distance to ear is similar). I will NOT be using the stock rear amplifiers, or the amplifier built into my head unit, and my 4-channel will put at least 75 watts RMS per channel. A 2 channel amp will power 2x 6" JL audio 6" subs installed in the stock trunk locations, probably modified slightly to have the proper sealed air displacement. This won't give me low bass and I'd eventually like to add the JL 13w7 single sub in a box for some earth-shaking bass. I'd put the 2 amplifiers under the front seats (I've seen them mounted on the roof of the trunk looking pretty slick) if they fit and sacrifice one of my rear cargo pockets to fit the sub amp for the removable JL sub box if and when I get the cash together for that sucker! I highly recommend both boston acoustic and MB quart for speakers, and always get component sets over coaxial if ever you can. The sound is always better, some may argue not noticeably, but I'm a sound engineer by trade and build recording studio speakers - components are always better. I swear by JL audio for subs (and usually the matching amps) unless I'm throwing thousands and thousands into that kind of bass that changes you - like in a show or competition car (of which I've built a couple). If you want top of the line for the bottom lowest bass, look into memphis audio. Other than their best with thousands of watts of amplification, I'd say stick to JL audio.

 

I agree with basically everything you say. Capactiors are great if you are using stand-alone amplifiers, I always use them. I like to keep a single battery setup when possible, leaving more room for everything else! I have a K5 with a similar setup, branded differently. Its a 5.7. I ran 4 speakers off of the head units amp and a memphis belle 5 channel super balls-out amp. thats 75w x4 @ 4 ohms RMS + 1100w x 1 @ 1 ohm. I have that run to 2x 6" component sets in the doors and rear, and a couple memphis subs. Fun Fun FUN!

Bass blockers are basically a resistor that you wire inline with the + to a speaker, filtering out the low end. Unnecessary if you have a high-pass option built into your head unit as most do that have a sub-out. Also unnecessary if you run your stuff through a graphic EQ like Kenwood's KGC-4042A, but most people don't. If you're not a smoker, you can put one of them in place of your ash tray. Crutchfield gives you a pretty good look at it: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1134042...2A.html?tp=116. It acts as a low-pass filter for your subs and a high-pass filter for your speakers at the same time.


I also agree on the wattage. If you get yourself the 2-way components for the rear to put in the doors or stock location, and put a 3-way component set in the front, you can get all the power and definition you want and comply with that 100w rms. You just may not need or want to do that especially when you have subs already to make up for the low end significantly. I say start with what you can put back behind the upholstery (with the exception of the addition of a separate tweeter in the front). You can always pour money into it, and if you're careful about what you buy, you may never find a purchase being unused.

 

they are MB Quart 6 1/2 components. no way would those speakers have cleared the window internals without spacers, i got some angled ones off ebay.

 

there are some nice looking spacers here, in fact I'm getting these gray ones to match my interior.
http://www.aerpro.com/list.php?pcode...no=08&cat_sno=

 

Do you have any idea what kind of depth you have without the spacers?

 

Its generally hard to figure that thing out and measure, pop your door panel off if you're curious and roll the window down. It depends on the shape of the speaker as well. If you can get one of those rubber speaker buckets that seals the speaker off that will help asl well. Not to mention keeping the speakers dry if for any reason you just so happen to get your toyota wet

 

Yotatech member OSIRIS did a really nice install and posted everyting. Here's a link to his thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f96/...runner-116183/

Also, here is a link to a .PDF file by installdr.com that walks you through the whole thing:
http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs...PDF/869017.pdf

Another option for stock-ish looking installs is to make the whole trunk side into a sealed sub box like this guy. I like it, but I'd rather have the storage space and a removable sub for when the mood strikes me.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296763/1

 

so what did you end up doing with your stereo?

 

I just ended up getting some 4'' speakers i got for cheap at stereo king.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFC1...tml?o=r&tp=102

Ive bought a lot of stuff from them and they know me so they took i think $25 off the price.

 

anyone know where the front speakers are, on a 88 4rnr? also what is the size of the factory speakers? thanks.

 

Lower dash by the doors? mine are 4''

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/a...r%2fMyCar.aspx

Enter your stuff and it should tell you all the sizes of your speakers around your rig.