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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

front dash speakers...

Old 12-02-2008, 11:57 AM
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front dash speakers...

So when i bought my truck the previous owners had the stereo hooked up way wrong, they didnt even have a full harness for it. I only had front speakers for a while then i got a new stereo and hooked it up correctly. Well the speakers up front were crackling pretty bad before i fixed it and now i blew the front speakers, well they sound good at low volume but when i turn it up they crackle really bad, so i just faded them to the back for now.

So to replace the speakers do i have to take apart the whole lower part of the dash? Or is there some trick i can do that will save me from taking apart the whole lower dash?
Old 12-02-2008, 12:11 PM
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Pull the dash apart. It's pretty easy. I bought a pair of 4" obcons, after going through about 3 wally world speakers.
Old 12-02-2008, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jason191918
Pull the dash apart. It's pretty easy. I bought a pair of 4" obcons, after going through about 3 wally world speakers.
so yes to the whole lower part? lol.

Do you like those obcons?
Old 12-02-2008, 12:24 PM
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yes, they are nice. I haven't noticed any distortion. The stock ones would be distorted at higher volume until they blow up.

On the right side, pull the glove box. Then you will find a box that the speakers mount to.

On the left side pull the panel w/ the hood release. Speaker is right behind it.
Old 12-02-2008, 12:35 PM
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Gotcha.

Thanks.
Old 12-02-2008, 12:37 PM
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Old 12-02-2008, 01:34 PM
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like jason said, you gotta take off the lower portions of the dash. i think it's just a few phillips screws and a 10mm bolt on each side. when i replaced my crappy stock 4" speakers i replaced the wiring with 12ga wires and put in some Boston Acoustic S45 2ways. Any speaker will be better than what was in there, but IMO those Boston Acoustics kick ass for such a small speaker. I think i did the Crutchfield thing to find out which are the best 4" speakers and I ended up getting the Bostons as well as some Kenwood 1061s that I tested side by side. Ended up liking the Bostons a lot more as the Kenwoods are 3way and were a bit too high pitch - so now they are in the garage. The Boston's magnet also weigh about twice as much. I've cranked them up pretty high with the bass up too, and no distortion at all. my setup is a Sony Xplod CDX-GT62IPW unit with the 4" Boston Acoustic S45s in the dash and 6.5" Pioneer 4-way speakers in the doors. When I get some $$ burning a hole in my pocket it's time for a 10" sub and amp under the jumper seat - not like I need it, but gotta give some more lovin' to the Gov't Mule.
Old 12-02-2008, 01:54 PM
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Yea even a basic sub and amp really help out the sound.

Im looking at these cause for a 3 way they are pretty cheap. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFC1...tml?o=r&tp=102

Unless you wouldnt recommend 3ways....

Btw i have 2 10 inch JBLs powered by a Kicker 300.1zx amp, the subs are hooked up in 2ohm.
My deck is about 2 yrs old, i took it out of my friends mustang before he got a new deck lol. it is 50w x4 tho. http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t=IMG_0243.jpg


OH, do yo uknow what model BA's you got?

Last edited by Tubbyfatty; 12-02-2008 at 02:03 PM.
Old 12-02-2008, 02:42 PM
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I have those Kenwoods in my garage. They are the ones I tested against the BA's. I think I got them for like $35 on Amazon. I got the BA's used, online somewhere too - they were the display models at a store - for like $40. The BA's are the S45 model.

The Kenwoods are a good speaker and had great sound. The thing to note here is that when I installed the dash speakers they were the only speakers in the truck and I was using the factory head unit. I thought they were too high pitched by themselves. I put in the new head unit this past year with my door speakers (6.5 Pioneer 4-ways) and have not yet tested the Kenwoods with this setup. I think that with subwoofers one might prefer the higher pitch speakers to counter the bass.

I originally wanted to be able to have 6-speakers - 4" dash speakers, 6.5" door speakers and 6x9" speakers in the rear storage compartments - this way in the future I could go doorless and still have front and rear speakers going. I couldn't figure out how to get a 6 speaker setup without an amp and didn't want to give up my storage compartments either.

If I had the cash to setup again I would do 6.5 component speakers in the front doors with the tweeters mounted in the 4" spot angled up to passengers. Maybe put 6x9s in the rear with a 10" sub. Another option would be to hook the 4" up to a CB radio.

It seems like you like to crank your music based on the dual sub setup...you might want to install some bass blockers in those dash speakers. In my old K5 Blazer I had to have something to compete with the clack of the 6.2L diesel so I had dual 12" JBL subs with a 1000w Kenwood amp and 4x6 Infinity Kappa plate speakers in the dash - kept it real simple and oh man.......
Old 12-02-2008, 02:51 PM
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Thanks for the advise.

Yea car toys had a buy-one-get-one sale so i only paid $100 for both of those subs then i got that box for cheap.
Old 12-02-2008, 02:52 PM
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in my truck i replaced mine. the local sound ppl only had 75w speakers made by pioneer. They bottom out pretty bad with bass so go with higher quality.. even though mine were 50 buks
Old 12-02-2008, 07:23 PM
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not higher quality persay but a higher wattage... go with 100W MINIMUM speakers if you like to crank the stereo...

and in order to run speakers in the pockets, all you would need to do is tap into the dooe speaker outs off of the wiring harness by the head unit...

also, dont bother installing "bass blockers"... while they do serve a purpose, a better idea would be to find a manual for your head unit and see if it has a high pass filter... otherwise known as a defeat... that will make all the speakers cut the bass except your amp will still be sending the proper signal to your subs... trust me, your speakers will like it... and if your head unit doesnt have one, then id think about upgrading it... even the 30 dollar stereos at the flea markets here have high pass filters build in...

one other thing to consider is that JBL subs, including the low end ones, like to be powered... your running a 300W amp to 2 10's that should be getting about 300 a PIECE!! now considering that the kicker amp runs about 140W RMS, id get another one and run them off of a distribution block off of some 4 gauge to the battery with a 2.0 Farad cap...

Last edited by space-junk; 12-02-2008 at 07:24 PM.
Old 12-02-2008, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by space-junk
not higher quality persay but a higher wattage... go with 100W MINIMUM speakers if you like to crank the stereo...

and in order to run speakers in the pockets, all you would need to do is tap into the dooe speaker outs off of the wiring harness by the head unit...

also, dont bother installing "bass blockers"... while they do serve a purpose, a better idea would be to find a manual for your head unit and see if it has a high pass filter... otherwise known as a defeat... that will make all the speakers cut the bass except your amp will still be sending the proper signal to your subs... trust me, your speakers will like it... and if your head unit doesnt have one, then id think about upgrading it... even the 30 dollar stereos at the flea markets here have high pass filters build in...

one other thing to consider is that JBL subs, including the low end ones, like to be powered... your running a 300W amp to 2 10's that should be getting about 300 a PIECE!! now considering that the kicker amp runs about 140W RMS, id get another one and run them off of a distribution block off of some 4 gauge to the battery with a 2.0 Farad cap...
My amp is just fine for my subs, my jbl subs require 250w rms each. The peak power my amp puts out is 297w. My subs are hooked up in the 2ohm pattern vs the 4 ohm. So both of my subs are getting 250w each.

4 gauge wire is way too big for this amp, kicker said i should use 8ga, i threw in 6 for kicks. I had this amp and sub set up in my other vehical before i sold it and it did fine.

As for a capacitor, they are a huge waste of money. Ive got a battery that is 100 times better then a capacitor. This is what i have, http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc2000.asp I got it out of my friends yukon because he is getting a 2400 one. Yes he really needs it. He has 2 15''s a 10'' and 3 amps to power it all. including door speakers.

Last edited by Tubbyfatty; 12-02-2008 at 08:03 PM.
Old 12-02-2008, 09:27 PM
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hey, you do what works for you...

im just commenting with my experiences from the import world...
and capacitors come in handy when you overload your stock battery and dont have 500 dollars to drop on a battery like that... my cap works good and keeps my lights from dimming when i bump the stereo...

but my statement stands true about your smaller speakers... if you like to rock out or bump the stereo, dont bother with ANY 55W speakers... spend lil extra and go for the 110's
Old 12-02-2008, 10:16 PM
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I'm, running Infiniti reference 4s up front, off the head unit (Kenwood Excelon x590)
Pioneer D series 6x9s in the back (Powered by Precision Power 450W 4 Channel)
And a Fosgate P3S (Also ran by the PP)
Thumps. I love it.
Old truck rattles too much though
Old 12-03-2008, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by space-junk
but my statement stands true about your smaller speakers... if you like to rock out or bump the stereo, dont bother with ANY 55W speakers... spend lil extra and go for the 110's
What speakers would you recommend?
Old 12-03-2008, 10:22 AM
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personally, i like kickers... they are pricy, but you get really good sound quality... i have some DS series in my truck and ive maxed out the stereo with my hi-pass off thanks to a friend, and i only blew the front right... im planning on upgrading to KS series components...
heres what im planning on running...
KS50.2 Component speakers for the fronts
KS650.2 Components for the rears
they are pricy, but they give a great sound...
Old 12-03-2008, 02:52 PM
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i would avoid putting any speakers in the front dash location because you are limited to a 4" speaker and it points down at your legs, not good for optimal sound quality. i put components in the door panels and never looked back

Old 12-03-2008, 02:58 PM
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Yea i was thinking about that but i would probably have a stereo place do it and that would cost a bit of money. I also wouldnt know how to run the wires.
Old 12-03-2008, 03:01 PM
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it will take a little time but you you can run the wires through the existing rubber hose conduit in the door jamb

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