Tomorrow I'm planning on doing a front brake job (pads and rotors) and repacking wheel bearings. I want to make sure I have all the necessary non-reuseable parts.

Looking at the FSM it looks like I'll need to buy (per wheel) 3 gaskets, a lock washer and an oil seal (maybe two??). I'm a little confused on the oil seal though. In the FSM it shows an oil seal immediately after the inner bearing and then another oil seal after that which goes against the dust cover. Both are not reuseable. Do I only need the oil seal immediately after the inner bearing or do I need both?

I've got a 54mm socket, but where can I get a brass bar? Does some place like Lowes or Home Depot carry them or do I need to go to some kind of metal shop?

 

IFS or solid axle? I think Marlin carries both as well as assembly diagrams.
Brass punch? Harbor freight. (big old punch, cheap, one of the few things I'll buy there)

 

IFS

I'd get a kit but I've got a wicked vibration from my brakes that I really need to fix, so I'm buying the parts piece by piece.

 

I'm doing the same thing this weekend. I have ADD hubs.

The only oil seal is on the inner side of the hub. It's a CR25968.

I only have 1 gasket, and that's for the outside flange.

 

Yes, that's a correct list on need parts regarding the wheel bearing seal and gasket for ADD style hubs.


What pads and rotors are you using ?





Fred

 

LOL!! I did my brake pads and rotors earlier today too!

 

I used Brembo Blanks and Hawk LTS pads.

Wheel bearing repacking went okay. Brakes on the other hand... it looks like one of my calipers is shot According to Toyota Part Sales a new OE caliper is close to $400 (MSRP) I don't know how good a reman. from NAPA would be, but there's no way I'm spending that much on calipers.

 

I've used Napa calipers and they work fine.

 

The Brembo blanks are perfect.
The Hawks are towards to bottom of the list

Anyway, the Napa calibers will be just fine and they'll be a ton less money.





Fred

 

1 for 2 isn't bad I searched a bit before I bought the combo, most people liked the Brembo/Hawk combo. Guess I'll just have to use it and see for myself. In any case, at least the rotors are good, I don't want to change those again anytime soon!

 

While we're on the subject, I need a bit of help. I'm doing my front brakes for the first time since I had the 4R. I've never done 4WD brakes before so I read up on here and other places and had everything ready to go. But there is one thing I didn't take into consideration, I got Warn manual hubs a few years ago and a buddy put them on. From the information for doing front brakes on a stock set up, what will I have to do differently with the Warn hubs? I started to take one apart, but it didn't look like any of my pics, so I figured I better ask.

Do the manual hub covers come off, then the manual hubs (how) and then I will start seeing everything I'm expecting to see (huge spindle nut, washer, etc.)?

I do have the install instructions for the hubs, but they're not very detailed.

Oh, I also went with the Brembo and Hawk combination, so we'll see how that does.

Thanks!!!

 

Yup, you take the manual cover off first, allen screws (sorry, I don't remember the size). Take note of the of how the cover goes on, because of the pin it'll only go on the same way.
When you take the nuts off the hold the Warn body to the hub you'll notice that you won't have to mess with the cone washers




Fred

 

So I've got the caliper off - dripping brake fluid grrrrr. Got the Warn hub cover off, took off the six nuts that mount the Warn hub to the, um, guess thats the hub. Now what? Theres a 12mm bolt inside the Warn hub, but all that does is spin the axle. Thank I'm gonna go take a pic, that would be easier.

OK, for simplicities sake, heres where I am, what do I do next? Thanks!!!

 

Take that bolt out. It's not torqued in there very tight. You might be able to break it loose by giving your wrench a quick hit or hold the CV while you break it loose.

If you've take the other bolts off holding on the free wheeling hub body it should come off and then you'll be able to get to the big 54mm nuts. You'll need to bend the lock washer up and off the first 54mm nut though.

After you do that take the nut and lock washer off and then unscrew the second 54mm nut. There will be a keyed washer after that but in front of the outer bearing. From there you can pull off the whole hub and rotor. The outer bearing will probably fall out when you take it off. Pop out the inner bearing seal and you'll be able to get the inner bearing out. Clean, repack, and put in a new inner bearing oil seal and reassemble

 

Ok, so please tell me that you know how to take the hub off, re-pack the bearings, replace the seal and, most importantly, set the preload on the bearings when you put it back together.



Fred

 

Yep, thats the stock part that I've looked at and studied. And I do have a Chilton so that'll help if I get lost. Only thing throwing me off is the difference in hub/rotor removal between the stock auto hubs and the manual Warn ones I've got now. But, if theres something you'd like to add or some tip or trick that will help a noob, please feel free. All advice is welcome.


Thanks!!!

 

If you havn't bought it yet consider using Synthetic Bearing Grease , yes its a few bucks more but performs so much better .

 

How are you going to set the bearing pre-load when you put it back together ?




Fred

 

With my handy dandy spring scale that I scored off eBay for $12 after my dumb ass spent half a day going to every automotive store around and looking and asking for a spring scale. After I came back home empty handed and nobody I asked knew what I was talking about, it finally dawned on me that a spring scale isn't an automotive specific tool and thats the same damn thing fishermen use to weigh fish.

So did I pass my first test???

 

But the question shouldn't be what I'm going to do when I put it back together if I can't even get it apart. Am I to understand that after I take that center 12mm bolt out and remove the six nuts that hold the hub body to the hub, the hub body should just come off? Well, it doesn't. I've pulled and tugged and beat on it and managed to make some nice marks on it, but it doesn't want to budge. Would probably be a good time for a rubber mallet. If theres nothing else holding it on, I'll get it off, but I just want to make sure that nothing else needs to be removed first.

Thanks!!!