Waiting for the praise or flame ? ROFL

 

I'll take either - or both. Heck, I'm learning here. Any information can be good information. But I just had to go there with that damn spring scale. It pissed me off at the end of the day that I even considered looking in more than one automotive store for one. Buy hey, this is how we learn. Lifes just one big classroom with endless lessons. I'm a student for life, even though it can sometimes be .

 

With the stock hub yes, it just comes off after you take out the outer bolts, the conewashers and the bolt in the center of the above picture. But just because you've done all that with the Warn hub doesn't mean there isn't another step, so don't start whacking. If the directions are detailed enough to put them on, they should be good enough to take them off.

 

Probably just stuck some. Try taking something thin and flat, like a putty knife or a screwdriver and wedge it between the bottom of the Warn body and the hub surface. Work it around the whole thing. There's a gasket between the two and whoever installed it may have put some gasket sealer or something.
It will come off.




Fred

 

Got it. Thanks Fred and every one else. I think I'm set from here. Pretty easy when you know what to take off where and how. It did just need a bit of assistance getting free. Now I'm off to get some synthetic bearing grease as that will probably be better than the one I have now and a seal puller tool.

Thanks again!!!

BTW Fred, how'd I do on that ??? about bearing preload?

 

I was just J/K anyway , I havn't seen any flaming going on here since I have been here , good Forum

 

Perfect

You don't really need to buy a seal puller.
I always just use a screwdriver in sort of the same way. Works fine.




Fred

 

Yep use the "Flathead Sealpuller" or the "Tapered Seal Remover" ( Tapered Punch)hehe

 

So I started plugging away at this brake job again today - been working a lot this week. That brought me to a few (noob) questions:

1. When I got my bearings cleaned up, I was expecting to see original bearings (Koyo I believe) but they're actually Timken. Obviously they were replaced at some time. I'm sure if I check my receipts, I'd find them somewhere, but I'm not going through 12 years worth of paperwork. How often should wheel bearings be changed? Besides obvious damage, what determines if they should get reused or not?
2. Should all the old grease be cleaned out of the hub or does that matter?
3. Does the hub actually get grease or is that just the grease from the bearings that ends up in the hub?
4. And most importantly, whats the best method for removing the bolts that mount the rotor to the hub? I'm replacing rotors, so I guess I could just stick the rotor in the vise to remove them that way, but then I'd still have an issue torquing the new rotors to the hub.

Thanks!!!

 

1. How often should wheel bearings be changed? Besides obvious damage, what determines if they should get reused or not?

If you clean the bearings and put them in the cups they should feel smooth when rotated. Timken are good btw.


2. Should all the old grease be cleaned out of the hub or does that matter?

I like to get rid of all the old grease in case there's any junk in there, plus it's less messy.

3. Does the hub actually get grease or is that just the grease from the bearings that ends up in the hub?

Some people like to fill the hubs but I don't know why it doesn't help the bearings. I don't put any grease in the hubs but the FSM says to coat the inside with grease.

4. And most importantly, whats the best method for removing the bolts that mount the rotor to the hub? I'm replacing rotors, so I guess I could just stick the rotor in the vise to remove them that way, but then I'd still have an issue torquing the new rotors to the hub.

Usually removing the bolts is easy. It's getting the rotors off the hubs that's sometimes tough. I use a vise and a BFG and sometimes a chisel to wedge the rotor off. Torque the bolts to 47 ft. lbs.

 

Remove the old grease for sure or at least push it out re-packing it , clean hub etc well also.
I always fill the hub , not pack the hub or it will weep from seals but fill it about 3/4 (leave a air gap) , if you just pack the bearings and then it gets hot then the grease settles and does not get picked back up unless it gets hot enough to puddle and thats hot , if you somewhat pack the hub at least you have the assurance that when it gets hot the bearing will always have lubrication and that means a good long happy life for bearing and race and if you have the money the synthetic bearing grease is worth every dime

 

To remove the rotor from the hub, stick the hub on the tire and put a lug nut or two on it to hold it then it's an easy job to remove the bolts hold the rotor to the hub.
Look at your wheel/tire, sitting on the ground and the hub with the lug bolts in it.
It should be pretty obvious how to do this.





Fred

 

DUH!!! Yes, I've seen this trick somewhere before. And thought to myself, I've got to remember this when its time to do mine. Well, guess what? Its been so long I forgot. But once again Fred saved me some frustration. Thanks Fred! Can I um, buy you an eBeer?

Sorry, thanks everyone else too. eBeer for everyone!!!