Saint_Berzerker

This is my 1st time changing these ball joints, so I need assistance.

As usual, the manuals make no sense on this subject.

I've got all the bolts off the top ball joint. I don't have a bj puller or a pickle fork. Would a bj puller pull the stud out of the bottom so you can just slip the rest out? If that's what the bj pullers do, I'll get one...other wise, it looks like you have to "pry" the top arm up high enough to be able to lift it out, and that looks pretty rough.

As far as the bottom one goes, I can't get the castle nut off (blowtorch as well as pb blaster method), but I'll get it off eventually.

From what I can see, if I take off the bottom shock mount, the arm ought to drop down far enough to clear the stud and lift the bj out. Is that right?

Thanks!

ChickenLover

You'll never get 'em off without one or the other. I use a harbor freight puller. It works well. Cheap too.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Or use the free ones from Autozone. As long as you're replacing the BJ's either one is fine but the pickle fork will tear them up if you were planning on re-using them. Pickle fork also requires a BFH.

Saint_Berzerker

How do the bj pullers work? Do they clamp onto the threaded stud on the bj?

Injohneer

Yeah... but you can put a little bottle jack in between the two A arms and use it to spread them apart. Makes the whole process a lot easier.

Nope. You're gonna have to spread those A arms. The BJ puller (actually, you may end up needing a pitman arm puller, it's bigger and stronger) will basically push the stud of the ball joint back through the hole with a loud pop! snap! when the rust releases, so be ready for that.

You could find it helpful to completely remove the steering spindle (the assembly between the Upper and Lower ball joints). Yes, that's a lot of work, but you could use it as an excuse to add manual hubs. Or you could get a good clean shot at those CV joints, too - might as well inspect the boots for tears and see if you need to replace them. Once you've done it a couple times, you could do it blindfolded. See a writeup here that involves removing the spindle (go all the way through step 13).

kdawghuntnfish

Just wondering if you knew there was a recall on the steering arm on some of these models. After you get the ball joints replaced I would check it out. It may get you a free alignment.

Saint_Berzerker

Yeah, I'm gonna do that once I get this front end rebuilt. I need idler/pitman arm's rebuilt, tie rod ends and the ball joints. Nobody can even do me an alignment without that stuff, it's totally shot.

I just knew that if I took it to the dealer for the recall, they'd make me do all that anyhow, so I'm just doing it myself. Then I'll take it there for the recall and alignment.

Saint_Berzerker

Well, I got a bj/pitman puller and I already broke it.

How in the heck do you get the balljoints out of the holes?

I now have the whole darn spindle off, just like in the writeup mentioned above, but I can't get the balljoints out of the holes. Could they be stuck that bad?

The new joints just go in the holes, right? So why don't the old ones just come out? I got a pickle fork and I've pried with everything I got, and they won't come out.

Like I said, I broke my bj puller in freaking half! Doesn't the "bolt" of the bj puller basically "push" the bj bolt upward toward the balljoint? I can't see any other way that it goes.

I'm in a screw up...help!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Just get a hammer and beat on the outside (the side) of the hole on the spindle where the balljoint goes through....dont hit the balljoint itself, that wont do anything. (little known trick that us Dismantlers and also Toyota Techs use)

BTW they dont just "come out" cause they are tapered

Saint_Berzerker

So they're "cone" shaped like the cone washers on the wheel hub thing, and you just have to bang till they pop out? I think that's what you're saying?

Saint_Berzerker

DeathCougar...you're a freaking awsome dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got one out just by banging on it....dang, that was easy! lol


Thanks!!!!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

N/P

But shhhhh dont tell anyone

Saint_Berzerker

Well, I'm on my last one (lower/pass side) and it won't budge

Been beating on it for about 1 1/2 hours. Soaked w/ pb blaster....blasted almost to liquid with the blowtorch and banged on the arm until I couldn't move.

Any other way of trying it?

My BJ puller is broken in half...the fork is useless...the only thing that worked for the other ones is the hammer method.

Will soaking it and letting it sit overnight with pb blaster do anything?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

wait until it all cools down from heating, and let it sit over night with the blaster, and bang real good on it. I've never had a ball joint i couldn't break free in 5 years of dismantling.

Saint_Berzerker

Thanks.

The other ones came out fairly easy...but this last one is tough.

Everything on this truck is hard to change because the previous owner apparently never did anything. I've had it for a bout a year or so and am just getting around to the front end.

My worst project so far was the cv axles...ugh what I nightmare that was.

Also, DeathCougar....I'm pretty sure I have to put new grease in the new bjoints? They don't come with it in there, I'm assuming?

Saint_Berzerker

Ok, NM...I got the last one out. I gave it the "going postal" whacking with the hammer and it came out. The other ones I just needed to tap.

I didn't have to take the spindle out on the 2nd side, because I knew what to do after the 1st one.

Now I just need to lube them up and onward to the next freaking project....tie rod ends...shocks, ugh $$$, and the arms.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Well, you could put anti-sieze on them, assuming you plan on keeping the thing for 400k+ miles. Either way, its good insurance to anti-sieze them. The castle nut and cotter pin will make 100% sure they dont loosen up.

Glad you got it all apart...once again...shhh dont tell anyone lolololol Only you and I can know the secret