Jesus H Christ, people. Let's reinvent the wheel here!

Ok. Grab your 19mm socket and a 1/2 inch ratchet. Rotate crank until cam is in proper position, then pop off cam gear and rotate crank back to where it needs to be. Reinstall cam gear.

 

Houston I think we have a winner! ding ding ding ding! You will either have to jump the chain on the crank gear or the cam gear, cam is easier, cut the zip ties, move it where it needs to be, all while not letting the chain get slack on the crank sprocket, It can be put back on the crank with the timing cover on. Its just very aggravating!

 

And just a thought, never tried it though. Is it possible to get enough slack in the chain by pushing in the tensioner in and walking the chain one link at a time on the cam sprocket? someone help me on this, might save op some trouble. Ive done the trick taking the cam bolt out, just have to have 6 hands to do it!

 

I don't think you get THAT much slack, because of how big the cam gear is.

 

Sorry to drive you guys crazy, but again, first time doing all this and seeing all these things. Like I said before, the dowel for the camshaft was aligned at 8 o clock upon head bolt torque down, I have already rotated the crankshaft until I could slip on the cam gear (which is the gear that the chain is tied to?) onto the camshaft (at 8 o clock). The chain was ziptied to the camgear the entire time. Presumably, I assume this is where a problem can occur if you jump a tooth on the lower gear (crank gear?). However, it is done now so if it skipped, it skipped. Nevertheless, I don't seem to have anything to lose now by just rotating the crankshaft back to noon (with cam gear/sprocket bolted in as seen in pic above). I have to assume that the main issues here are that (1) the chain doesn't skip a tooth on either the crank gear or cam gear and (2) that the sprocket/camgear hole matches up w/ the camshaft dowel. The chain has stayed zip tied to the cam gear, so that part is fine and I have to assume, at this point, that it didn't jump a tooth on the crank gear. Otherwise, the dowel is matched up w/ the cam gear hole (at 8 o clock), sprocket and bolt are in, and I presume I can just rotate the crankshaft (from 8 o clock) until I have it at TDC (which would place the white marks in pic at noon). Again, the marks on the timing chain and gear are just to make sure that it stays on the same teeth? and having it at "noon" should just be attainable by rotating the crankshaft until the indentation in the pulley is at zero and you are at TDC. Right? Is this logic sound, or am I missing something?

 

as long as you have the oil pan off you can remove the timing cover without pulling the head just be careful not to damage the head gasket, normally when i put together a 22re i wait till the head is on before putting the cover back on. normally i would set the head on with the cam roughly where it needs to be. put the head bolts in without tightening them down and then set my cam timing lining up the links to the marks, put the timing cover on and then torque the head. this way you can see both marks at the same time. If i was in your position i would pull the timing cover put a socket on the end of the cam rotate it slowly to where it needs to be and then set your cam timing put the cover back on and go on from there. you don't have to pull the head just be very careful pulling the cover not to damage that part of the head gasket that goes over the top of the timing cover and even if you do damage it a little you can put a little rtv on the gasket and it will be fine no oil coolant or high compression is on that area of the gasket. and if your oil pan is not already off its a good idea to take it off to clean it out anyway

 

I think I did what barrel_roll mentioned.... albeit in reverse. He said "Rotate crank until cam is in proper position, then pop off cam gear and rotate crank back to where it needs to be. Reinstall cam gear." I rotated the crank until the camgear matched the cam dowel (at 8 or 9 o clock), popped ON cam gear, then rotated crank back to where it needed to be, TDC noon. Seems intuitive if there weren't any issues w/ chain skipping or valves. ... unfortunately I broke off an exhaust stud today and there is a possibility that the head may have to come back off to go to a machine shop ... doesn't sound like removing embedded broken exhaust studs is much fun. Appreciate all the information.

 

Sounds like everything is lined up and fine.

The timing cover should of kept the lower chain ON the crank gear so it cannot slip.

Broken bolts suck, if you want to try it yourself get some Easy Outs and a hand drill and you might be able to do it without removing the head.