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first time doing front brakes, pointers?

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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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91RN81's Avatar
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From: Upstate S.C.
first time doing front brakes, pointers?

hey guys my front rotors and pads are shot and i don't have the money for labor to install the brakes so i'm going to take a stab at it even though i have never changed brakes before. I bought some brembo rotors from tirerack only $29 a piece! and some toyota pads. What tools will i need and any pointers and or detailed info would be great, just don't anything falling off going down the road, lol. thanks..

This install will be on my 1991 toyota std cab 2wd truck.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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You will need brake cleaner, brake fluid (though it can be done without removing the brake line... You will also need the large spindle nut socket, 54mm??? I dont remember, but its big..but could be smaller on your 2wd... get a chiltons and go from there


brakes are fairly easy, good luck.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
hey man, i recently just did the same thing. here are some of the websites i found while searchin for info about it. might as well replace the rears while u are doin the fronts.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ghlight=brakes

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rearbrakes/

-Kyle
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Since you are 2wd it shouls be a piece of cake.

remove the wheel, pads, caliper - you won't need to remove the brake line - this will make it easier. Bang off the old rotor, slide on the new one. - you shouldn't need to remove the spindle nut on a 2wd, the rotor simply slides over the wheel studs (someone correct me if I am wrong). The rotor will sometimes be a bugger to get off - I have had to use a sledgehammer int he past - good luck.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 12:47 PM
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From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
not tryin to steal a thread here but im gonna be buying new rotors for my 4wd in a month or so Matt, would the same procedure work for mine or does somethin else need to come off as well.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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From: marlbank, canada
check through this, it should answer your questions and show you how things come apart and go back together.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...akesystem.html

lee
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RednekYank
not tryin to steal a thread here but im gonna be buying new rotors for my 4wd in a month or so Matt, would the same procedure work for mine or does somethin else need to come off as well.

There is a spindle nut that needs to come off as well...

also, repack your wheel bearings at the same time
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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The 4wd are more complcated to due due to the different hub design - best to look that one up in a manual as there is a specific torque on the bearings.
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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From: Upstate S.C.
the chilton's manual says something about setting the bearing pre-load what is that all about? and will i need any oversize sockets for removal of the rotor? thanks
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
I've always been able to judge the preload without a scale pretty accurately. You basically have to set the nut tight enough for a scale to pull XX pounds from the lug bolt (i thing 35 lbs) in order to get the wheel tight enough to avoid it loosening up during driving.

Socket it huge; invest in one from Sears now (I think it's 52 mm?).
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 10:19 AM
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From: Elbert, CO
54mm or 2 1/4", I paid $22 at Sears.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html

Brian

Last edited by Asha'man; Jun 21, 2006 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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From: Idaho
Originally Posted by Asha'man
54mm or 2 1/4", I paid $22 at Sears.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html

Brian

I got mine from either NWOR or Downey, its not an actuall socket, but made spec for toyota hub work...
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TNRabbit
I've always been able to judge the preload without a scale pretty accurately. You basically have to set the nut tight enough for a scale to pull XX pounds from the lug bolt (i thing 35 lbs) in order to get the wheel tight enough to avoid it loosening up during driving.

Socket it huge; invest in one from Sears now (I think it's 52 mm?).
Remeber his is the 2WD - I don't know if the nut is the same size & I don't think it has to be removed to do the discs. I have yet to remove one other than on a 4WD
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Originally Posted by celica
Remeber his is the 2WD - I don't know if the nut is the same size & I don't think it has to be removed to do the discs. I have yet to remove one other than on a 4WD
\

Sorry, I was addressing that to the guy with the 4wd.
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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From: Upstate S.C.
so anyone know what size socket i need for removing the rotors?
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 91RN81
so anyone know what size socket i need for removing the rotors?
A big hammer! - read my first post again. Once the wheel is off & the caliper the rotor just slides off the wheel studs. Often it is very tight & slightly rusted on - hence needing to hit it with a hammer. The only thing that really holds it on is the caliper being bolted to the spindle in the back & the wheel being bolted to the wheel studs.
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