Man, Im so mad, Ive had my truck for about 6 months now and decided to check all the fludis, tranny, t-case, differentials, etc. Well I went to go take the rear filler plug out to check if the rear differential had the right amount of fluid, and I notice the plug was all chewed up, but I just had to check, I crank at it and it wouldnt budge, I try a breaker bar and BAM! Rounded off the bolt, I was pissed any idea on how to take it off, I do not own a welder at this time would a jb welded socKet on to the plug work? Your suggestions are needed it! Thanks.

 

Use a "bolt out" - I think sears has em? Not sure if they go that "big".

Also - there are wrenches and that grab the flats.

BTW - do NOT NO NO NO use a 12 point 24mm wrench/socket on this nut. Use a 6 point socket or wrench (tis why the corner's rounded off)

Hit the rounded off corners with a file (get rid of the torn metal) and then try using a SIX POINT socket or box end wrench (Ive never seen a box end 6 point 24mm socket however). BTW - a 1/2 drive 6 point socket is kinda rare - use an "impact" 24mm socket (almost always 6 point)

 

Pipe wrench time buddy. Did the same exact thing to mine. But I'd get a EasyOut just like ewong suggested. Always comes handy.

 

If you have enough room (which I don't know if you do or not)
Same thing happen on my oil plug on my olds,
Took a plumbers wrench and got it nice and tight and then banged it with a rubber mallet and viola if was off...
Virse Grips and the same technique might work too?

 

This was my take on the drain bolt. But I got it out.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/rear-differential-drain-bolt-82029/

 

Replace your filler and drain plugs with these and never have to worry about rounding or stripping them off again.


Magnetic Drain Plug
Magnetic Drain Plugs are a great way of keeping metal from building up in the oil. Low profile design uses recessed 10mm Allen socket. Your choice of Aluminum or steel washers. Aluminum washers are designed for transfer cases, and aluminum transmissions (G, W & R series). Steel washer is designed for axle housings and steel transmissions (L series).

http://www.wabfab.org/products/diffe...ferentials.htm

 

The OEM plug has some magnetic action to it as well. At least the one I took out did.

 

yup - OEM *DRAIN* plugs are magnetic.

OP noted the FILL plug was rounded off. There's room for a pipe wrench. Or just use a 6 point socket...

 

Easy off is your best bet, replace the filler plug with something better.

 

if you really get desperate then you could load your gun and shoot it. but then you got more problems than a bolt.

 

You know what I think Im liken Mister Willes Idea lol, Ill try the easy outs, I did use a 6 point socket on a half inch drive it was just too chewed to get a good grip on it, god this is a pain, I hate the little things in life that should take a second end up being 3 hours :o O btw, I changed my front differntial fluids and a little chunck of a tooth came out, about the sice of 2 grains of rice, should this effect it much, or will it make noise, or will it just blow up the first time I use it, knowing my luck something magical will happen with the differntails making me spend more money. But what do you think?

 

i have an irwin kit and works great for this stuff. advanced auto has it.

 

If you don't want to try welding a nut on, then the easyout maybe be the best way.

Some tips for using an easyout:
Start your hole as close to the center as possible and work your way up to a hole for the biggest easyout you can use (without removing any of the threads of course). That way you lessen the chances of breaking the easyout off in your hole. It's not easy drilling out a broken easyout.

 

At the shop vise grips nearly always did the job tout de suite.

 

if its not completely rounded off try a 6 point socket, it worked for me

 

get this.

 

Whenever this comes up at work I've found that a hammer and chisel striking the flat close to a corner of the bolt head will help free a rounded diff plug.