I searched and didn't find answers to these questions.

I'm in the process of pulling my 22RE for a rebuild.

1. The Toyota FSM has me pulling both the transmission and the engine together.
a. Would it be easier to pull just the engine by itself?
b. Now I'm not sure but does the transfer case come out attached to the engine and trans?

2. The FSM doesn't mention the fuel filter and fuel lines that have to be disconnected if the engine comes out.
a. So what do you typically do with the fuel lines when you pull the motor?
b. Does fuel end up leaking everywhere?
c. Should i buy those fuel line clamps and clamp the hose under the truck closed or something?

Thanks in advance!

R-

 

I just pulled my motor a few weeks ago and i found it to be very easy to pull the engine seperate from the trans. There are two tricky bolts that connect the trans to the engine on the top behind the head. I used a few extensions and a wobbler to access those from the bottom of the truck. An extra hand is helpful to guide the socket onto the bolts.

For the fuel lines just disconnect them and what i normally do is find a bolt that is the same size as the inner diameter and put it in and tighten the existing clamp down on it. blocks it off well enough so it doesnt leak.

hope this helps!

 

Excellent!

So where are you disconnecting the fuel lines in order to put bolts in them?

Thanks!

 

Are you pulling the motor intake and all of just the long block? Regardless there is a fuel filter on the passenger side of you motor just above the starter that needs to be disconnected and changed if you haven't already. If pulling the motor intake and all I find its easier to pull the wiring With it. Disconnect the ecu, passenger kick panel. Push the rubber bulkhead and plugs through carefully. The crawl under it disconnect the starter wires and follow the harness back along the tranny and t-case. There are a few plugs but not many. The wire stand off mounts can be tricky but be patient you'll get it. I believe your harness stops at the o2 sensor. Slowly work the harness up to the engine compartment. You have to unbolt the slave cylinder and pull the starter. (The top bolt of the starter is easier pulled with some long extensions from the front of the engine compartment). Then you should be able to easily unbolt the fuel filter to disconnect the fuel lines. Disconnect you throttle cables. Random hose. I am sure I'm missing something. At that point you should have the motor mounts and tranny mounting bolts and bell housing bolts. (4 each I think). And your loose.

If just the long block don't bother with the wire harness on the tranny. I think this way is harder than the whole motor so I will not go in to detail on that way. Either way a good google search should net you any information you can't find. Hope this helps and good luck.

 

Cool, I hadn't realized the harness down at the tranny had to be pulled. I'm pulling the entire motor. I'm just about there.

So what do you do about the fuel filter when you pull the motor? I'm assuming you disconnect the banjo fittings and then what? Do they leak?

 

If its not too late, you may want to use your starter to bump your crank bolt loose before you pull the motor. I broke a couple tools getting that bad boy loose!

 

At the fuel filter,ive never pulled the trans and engine at once.Probalbly never will unless i have a torch and scrappin it.

 

I actually did do this.

 

It will leak a bit of fuel but not much. Just watch out for the spray. It's under pressure.

 

The engine came out without much drama. The top two trans bolts required wobbler sockets, but not bad!

I was concerned that the starter and fuel filter would be a pain until I unbolted the access panel in the fender well. Sweet!






The clutch is a brand new Luk disc with Aisin pressure plate. I'll definitely reuse it.

 

Glad it went smooth. Always nice when that happens

 

This can be a PIA out of the truck.

 

I'm pleasantly surprised. I got it down to shortblock today. I'm pretty sure I can get it back together correctly

Trust me, I know all about this. The starter bump worked great on this one!



That is my Toyota special service tool that I bought through Toyota SPX tools. It cost about $160, but the 1J/2JZ crank bolts call for 245 FT LBS!!!

You can also see the 3 or 4" SS pipe I used as a cheater bar. The Toyota tool is boss. You can torque the crank/FW bolts perfectly with it.

This same tool is used for the 22re, but I haven't actually tried to see if it'll fit. Might need to order a different boss hub for it to work.

 

Here's another shot of the Toyota crank tool bolted to a 2JZ crank for $*its n grins