1990 4x4 V6 4runner
OKay, this morning my fan bracket assembly bearing locked up. With help from the numerous posts on this I have pulled it off and ordered one off of ebay for 70 bucks including shipping. I'm going to replace the badly patched radiator and the thermostat. Is there anything else I should look at replacing or servicing while I've got it opened up? Water pump? Timing belt is good, replaced only 15k ago.

Another question about the tension spring for the timing belt. When I pull it off it seems that the pulley and bracket it was attached to on the left should be able to move, otherwise why the spring? Mine doesn't move and it looks even like there might be some rust.

 

ouch....well it's not that bad, i had mine go out 3 weeks ago, took about 45min...thanks to yotatech, you guys helped me out so much...my timing and water pump was ok as well.....only other thing i changed were belts and got to clean it up real good.....oh ya, cap and rotor on the distributor and sealed it up good....sealed up the timming belt shroud also with slycone....thermo is a great idea while your down there......have fun buddy

 

My timing belt was only like $30. Compared to the time and labor to get in there, why not go ahead and do it now and save an extra disassembly?

 

If im not mistaken, there is a bolt that ghets tightened there, right? Its not supposed to move. the spring is there to hold the belt taught while you tighten the bolt. I'd say, replace both the upper and lower idler bearings. Might as well give yourself the added insruance, so you dont have to pull it all apart when those bearing freeze up prematurly.

 

unless the timing belt, water pump, and ilder pullys were just all replaced in the last 30-40K miles i would do it all at the same time.

adds about $150-200 to the job and about 3 hrs (on avg)

new upper and lower rad hoses??

power stearing pump leaking? if so its a great time to replace it also as all the front end stuff is out of the way. (both times ive done this to my trucks the PS pump was leaking)

for some of my pics of the timming belt/fan bracket job.

http://www.snjschmidt.com/timing_belt.html

 

The only part thats a bitch to get off is the upper bearing assembly, becuase the intake is partially in the way.

 

You might have to drill out a relief in one of the holes on the new fan bracket. It is the one closest to the tensioner. The stud that comes out of the block is slightly larger about 3/4" at the end against the block. It took me a while to figure out that the casting didn't have the relief in it. The part I recieved was made in China, I have only had it on for a couple of days. I have pics of which hole to relieve and a comparison of the two if anyone wants to see.

 

Fireman: The reason you had to do this, was becuase you got an early style fan support for your late style truck. There are two styles. Early (88-5/92) and Late (6/92-95) Later styles had a tensioner built into the bracket, where the early style didn't, and the timing system relied on the tensioner, instead of the tightened bolt to keep the belt tight.

 

If I get you right, from the 93 and before years, the tensioner actually had a spring and tensioner bearing assembly. On 93+ , the timming belt tensioner was the 2 bolt, hard as hell to push in thingy. The only way I got my old one ready to be intalled was to put it in a BIG vise. Then insert a huge gauge paper clip. Inastall after new timming belt is in and pull pin like grenade. DONE. The piece I got off eBAY to me seems of inferior quality. Time will tell. I guess the stud wasnt so big on the early models, but that has nothing to do with the tensioner clearance. That was easy. What do u think?

 

you shouldn't have to use your paper clip idea. The bolts holding that tensioner in place are long enough to start into the metal, then just cinch it tight. Thou, i suppose your idea works too heh.

most non-factory parts are of inferior quality anyways, so im not suprised about that fan support.