91Toyota

Oh never mind about the air thing. Since you pointed it out I now know what your talking about. I glanced at it...thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

91Toyota

Update!

O.K, I took off that hose on the right of it. It is full of antifreeze (is it supposed to be?) and I put my mouth on it and blew as hard as I possible could. I could feel something pushing against it. So, now I am going to heat up that valve and see if I can get it to open...but so far it is not looking good for this valve right?

kmat123

http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/s...t=weird+idling

This above link has some info also about diagnosis whether or not your IAC valve is the culprit. As other have mentioned try covering the larger of the two holes on the bottom of the TB with duct tape, unscrew your idle screw a few turns (to help with the cold start), then start up the truck (you will have to give it some gas). Drive it around for awhile and see if your idle problem persists. If it does you have isolated your problem to the IAC valve. I recently figured out that this was the culprit of my surging idle and have been driving around with the "duct tape fix" for two weeks now. But thanks to anotherjeff I will be putting in a new IAC valve tomorrow.

thook

Oh hell!!! I'm sorry. Obviously the wrong one....lol! Plug it back in. That IS the coolant line.

Find a large diameter vac hose going to that thing. It will have NO coolant in it and run to the side of the plenum. That's the one you looking for.

Sorry this has gotten messy. I'll see if I can find it from your pics and point it out this time.

Understand....I don't have a newer 22re set up like yours. Mine is an '86.... designed differently, so I'm tryin'.

thook

Oh hell, again! Alright....I'm waaaay off. The only line going to your AAV is that coolant line. Apparently from the picture on pg.8 (in the link I posted) the bore I've point to is an inlet. Air is diverted/pulled in through there, underneath/past the throttle plate, and up/out through another large hole in the bore BEHIND the throttle plate. So, much for my brilliant idea.

Hmmm....well, I still think you should try isolating the AAV with the motor off. What kmat is suggesting IS the ACTUAL recommended test in the FSM, but it's like I said...you have other things going.

Tell you what.....do like he suggested. Only spray a tiny puddle of starting fluid in the hole first, then put the tape on and start the motor...from a cold start. The motor should rev and even suck the tape in...as you've seen. Then, pull the tape off, start the motor again, but let the motor warm up and the valve SHOULD close. Now, shut the motor off. To see if it's not closing, spray a tiny puddle of starting fluid in there, put a fresh piece of tape over the hole, and start the motor again while it's still warm. If the valve is open, the motor should, again, rev from the puddle.

Geez...I hope this helps.

91Toyota

lol...I'm not 100% sure. I did put the tape on it before and the problem kept happening. Not sure if the tape got sucked in or not. But it was hard to start. I had to have my foot on the gas, and then as soon as I backed out of my driveway and gave it a bunch of gas it was normal again...lol.

I will give it a try though.

Coolant tastes nasty...and I did happen to put my mouth on that hose and blow on it

thook

See this is what I'm talking about.....just so you understand. The problem happens whether or not the hole is blocked......meaning, that it runs bad whether or not the valve is closed. The idle should go UP when the valve is open, and go DOWN as the motor warms and the valve closes. But, the condition does not change......even by adjusting the idle speed screw. So, it's hard to diagnose whether or not the valve is working. And, sooo....isolate. See?

Through all of this fuss, whether or not the valve is operational, you DO STILL have another issue. Let's just determine if the AAV is a part of it.

Again, I'm sorry about the confusion. Coolant IS nasty crap....

91Toyota

Ah, thats not the first time I've had coolant in my mouth. It gets better each time.

Well, I'm sorry I didn't listen earlier. Well, before I tore down my engine to replace the valve because I thought it was stuck I took the compression of my #3 cylinder and it WAS 60 psi. My cylinder is NOW 40 to 50 psi. So, I had over heating troubles. My brother makes in fun of me because it was almost getting to the red (sometimes did! and went into it a couple of times) because I KNEW it was overheating.

Well, I look under the oil cap and I see milky white substance. Look in my intake (where the hole is where the vac line comes from the VC to the intake) and I see white milky stuff. I am consistently loosing coolant (I thought that it was normal because I changed my coolant from water to coolant) so, I have EVERY sign of a blown head gasket.

I did however get it to idle right. I put duct tape over those holes...it would idle at 400rpm (Yes 400!!!) and the milky sludge seeped its way out of the duct tape and then it wouldn't idle. So, I took out the screw from the dash pot and used it for the throttle. Now idles at a smooth 1000rpm and is really smooth for some reason. This is hot so I don't know how it is going to act when cold.

I am 17 years old and I spent all my money to get this truck. Then to fix it but that never happened. Then to fix it again, only to find out I have a blown head gasket...it is blown right? Not entirely but a slow leak...right? I do however have a motorcycle that needs a chain really bad that I will be riding. My friend however was in an accident and it rolled his truck (hit by a Honda and it rolled it on its side and it was still running) so he is selling his engine. It is an 87/88 22re. Would this be a direct bolt in? No swapping parts (as my truck sucks all together...like the electronics and crap!) so I just need his engine + sensors + computer and I should be set right?

Am I taking this too far? Maybe I am overlooking something?

Thanks for all of your help!

thook

I do think you're getting a little too far...yes..... Drink a beer or two.....one for me.....and we'll talk more about it tomorrow.

91Toyota

Under 21...lol. If I could I definitely would

Talk to you tomorrow!

thook

Wait...wait! I'm thinking this may NOT be a bad idea. What's he want for the whole kit and kaboodle?

91Toyota

He wants I think $500 for the engine and everything that comes with it. It has 169k miles, and he was pretty hard on it, but only for 10k miles or so.

Good or bad deal? Not even sure if he still has it.

thook

Hmmmm.....let me give it some thought, if you really want to know what I think. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide if it's a good deal. You're the one who can see it and hear it, if it still runs and if he still has it. But, there's some positives and negatives to both scenarios and you'll just have weigh the choices. I can go over some with you tomorrow, if you like.

For now, though, goodnight. I'm off to watch a haunting movie with my wife!

thook

Just a quick reply to a question....
The idle RPM jumped from 400rpm to 1000 rpm because you put the screw in for the throttle stop and change where the TPS reads the idle; it is out of range. In other words....like I said before, you will have to adjust the TPS. But, in light of realizing the HG failure, there's no point in messing with it.

91Toyota

So, is it most likely I have a blown head gasket?

91Toyota

Alright. There is a bunch of that milky white stuff coming into my intake from the right hole I can't keep the duct tape in place over the AAV because that stuff makes it move. What should I do? I don't have coolant in my oil or oil in my coolant...and I don't see any on the ground. Thanks!

thook

Milky white stuff under the oil cap = coolant in oil....and you know what that means?

Yep. Blown headgasket. I was hoping, for you, that it might be something else. So, I tried to help you troubleshoot some other possibilities. But, you plain have a blown headgasket. You are going to have rebuild....considering the nature of the failure.....or get another motor. In which case, in deciding what to do, weigh the cost, skill, and effort of doing either. Installing another motor....that's ready to go....would be easier and could cost about the same. The cost of rebuilding will depend on what damage is done, where you source replacement parts, and how much of the labor you have to farm out. Another motor will, of course, depend on who you get it from. And, then there's always the possibility of work you may have to do to it upon installation and even in the future.....near or far.

Drain your oil and coolant....or even just some of it....and have a look at it. What do you see?

91Toyota

O.K, I have had blown head gaskets before and this does not look like one. The white stuff is not there anymore. It does however come into the throttle body from the VC though. I think that since my truck is overfilled with oil right now that the oil is foaming up and is looking like that. Is that plausible?

Thanks!

thook

Take a pic of the milky white stuff, if you would, then. It may just be foam, but I'd have to see, eh.

Overfilling's not good, mate. I mean, a pint or so won't hurt anything, but much more than that stresses the seals from the higher oil pressure while driving....particularly at higher RPM's. Also, if foaming is happening, that means the motor parts get much less lubrication. Bearings and such "float" on the oil. Air means less flotation.

91Toyota

Yeah, I took a bunch of pics of that milky white stuff sitting in the TB. I did wipe off the oil cap and you can see a little on there now...which I wiped it off about 2 weeks ago.

Yes, I know what happens when you over fill. It isn't good. I put 4 quarts in and it was over full. I then drained it (about a quart) and put some in and over filled it again on accident...and that is where I am at right now. I think I am going to leave it right in the middle of the dipstick...lol.

I will get pics soon. Thanks for your help!