I took new ones....since those were my taken with my cell phone. Here they are. Do you still need better ones? Any specifics?

 

Sorry they are so damn blurry. I don't have a very good camera and dont want to spend all day taking perfect pictures...sorry

 

These pics are just fine. Thank you.

In this one, the fifth pic, you see the dashpot? Just above it there is a hole in the metal "tang" sticking out to left from where the 8mm hexhead bolt is. Is that hole threaded, by chance?

 

Yep, it's threaded. The idle is all the way down. You can feel the butterfly hit, and sometimes it feels like it sticks after a WOT run and then let off the throttle. Why?

 

That's where you need a throttle stop screw. The name implies the function. It keeps the throttle plate from completely shutting and even sticking, as you've described. You'll need to get one. It will be just like your dashpot screw.

Once you get one, you'll need to set the clearance and snug it down with the lock nut. Then MARK IT with a paint pen so you don't lose the setting in the future.

To set it, turn the screw all the way to where it touches the throttle lever. Then, turn it in about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn to where it pushes on the lever. That will set the amount your throttle plate is open at idle and when the throttle is released.

Incidentally....and consequently....this will affect your TPS setting. So, you'll need to readjust it to the "new" throttle position. You may also need to readjust your dashpot, at this point. Cross that bridge if/when you come to it.

 

No offense to you or anything but this doesn't have anything to do with my problem...so how does that help out?

 

And, sometimes (when the engine is cold but it's warm outside) when I try to start it it almost starts at the normal spot then it dies. Then I have to put my foot to the floor to start. Does that mean anything? It's getting really annoying. I'm getting to the point of saying F Toyota. I had about the same luck with a damn Ford Ranger...at least my Ranger was all electrical not F'ing rings, $200 crap...i'm just sick of this. I thought the 22re was supposed to be a good engine??? Why is everything I have such a piece of sh]t and not work right. Everybody elses works like a dream.

 

No offense taken....you just don't understand the function. And, you don't understand that ANY vehicle is going to have problems at one point or another in it's life. An electronic fuel injected system with all of it's vacuum functions is going to make a bit complicated....and quite confusing...IF you don't understand how it works and why it works the way it does.

I've found myself cursing BOTH of my Toyotas at one point or another for the same reasons I've explained. Then, I had to remind myself of when I owned carbureted vehicles and how I thought THEY were pieces of crap. Well, they weren't and neither are the vehicles I own now. I've just had to learn how to fix them.

Just keep in mind you'd be paying someone out your wadhole to do what you're now doing. And, remember that you're learning which you'd NEVER do paying someone else. You'd would be at their mercy, my friend.

I tell you.....Toyotas are not pieces of crap. The 22re is not a piece of crap. Toyota was at the forefront of EFI technology when the system design was first introduced in the mid 80's...and they still are. The name has a reputation for a damn good reason. The engineering.....mechanical and electronic....is well thought out quality.

It's taken me three years to learn what I have since I bought my first 4rnr. And, I still have a lot to learn. If you intend to own any vehicle from here on, you can either choose to stick with it or be kissing someone's stinky bottom to fix it for you. It pays to do this work yourself.....believe me.

But, about your throttle stop screw. If you don't believe it has anything to do with your piss-poor idle, install one and see what happens. It's not a hard thing to do.

 

O.K, I completely understand. I have a basic idea of how things work. I could take my engine apart and put it back together with a rebuild. Anything mechanical I am good at. It's electronic stuff that I have absolutely no idea. The only thing I can do is simply replace it.

I will install one but I don't think it is going to do anything. I think it will just mess with my TPS but maybe that is a good thing. I did however hook up a vacuum gauge to me engine and it read at 1 or 2. Not sure if I did it right but I have tuned my carb (and rebuilt it) on my old chevy and it seemed to work just fine then.

So, what should I do? Is there something I should look for? Should I just buy a new intake?

Thanks

 

You are saying you are hitting the rev limiter? How so?
What are you and the truck doing when you hit the rev limiter?
Something is missing in the translation.

 

Yes, I think it is a rev limiter. I just put my foot to the floor in neutral and it goes up to 6200 or so and it stops. Is that a rev limiter? I don't get what your saying something is missing in the translation?

 

Well, I apologize. I didn't mean it to sound as if the stop screw was the "entirety" of your problem. You have an idle issue, and the throttle body is always one possible culprit. So, when I have to fix any of my vehicles, I always try to start with the visually obvious, and your TB missing the stop screw was one of the first things I'd noticed. It is there to keep the throttle valve/plate very slightly open...not completely shut, as it is now....and to keep the plate from sticking within the throttle bore.

Anyway, look at this picture of the throttle body:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...35auxiliar.pdf
You can see how air is suppose to travel through the throttle body. While the plate opening (set by the stop screw) is very minimal it is part of the "curb" idle tuning. The majority of the tuning is throught the idle speed screw. So, since yours is completely shut, the only way for air to enter is through your AAV underneath the TB. When, you blocked off the ports going to it with tape, you shut off the only other air supply. The throttle plate opening being so slight....or non-existent, in your case...is not enough air to keep the motor running. So, it dies. Try leaving the tape and opening the screw back up. See what happens.

And, get the stop screw. I believe I have one you can have, if you want. No charge.

 

Oh it's alright. I knew what was happening I just wasn't sure if the screw could cause all of this. I now get what you are exactly saying. The air HAS to go through the AAV valve since everywhere is blocked off.

I put tape on those holes, loosened the idle screw, and it started up with my foot a little on the gas. It would barely run, then I gave it a bunch of gas and it idles funky again. I took off the intake hose and the duct tape had been sucked in a little and exposed two of the three holes. I put tape over it again and it would not idle with my foot off of the gas. The tape kept moving so it was kind of hard to determine anything. I do think that the valve is screwed up. What do you think?

Are you going to send the screw in an envelope then?

Yes, I would love to have it!

Thank you so much. You are the man!!!

 

Yeah, I'll send it in an envelope. PM your address. Your are welcome to it....I just have to find the old throttle body first! lol! Pretty sure I know right where it is, though.

I do have more input, but I'm in the middle of doing my taxes. (I'm such the procrastinator....) So, I'll have to get back with you later. Sorry.

Oh, real quick, though...the duct tape being sucked in means the valve is open. Find the vacuum hose running from it to the intake plenum and clamp it off. Then, see what happens. If nothing else, it will atleast keep the tape from getting sucked......

 

O.K, I will pm you my address. If you don't find it its alright.

My parents are doing there taxes right now too!...lol. I did mine awhile ago. Too bad I already spent my tax returns

Later

 

Hey, I've been giving your issue a lot of thought since earlier this afternoon. I can't wrap my head around the totality of it since I know the weak cylinder is affecting things. In other words, I'm not sure how this fact....or even the possibility of a vacuum leak elsewhere....is going to affect the results you see from troubleshooting the AAV. Although, the AAV's open or shut position should affect some sort of change......I would think.

Anyway, my brilliant idea is to isolate the operation of the AAV from the rest of what may or may not be happening with the motor. That way you should get a more definite conclusion.

Here goes....if you're willing...
Theoretically, if the valve is open and vacuum is able to pulled through the throttle bore ports, then air should be able to be blown through it. Conversely, if the valve is shut, no air should pass either way. Sooooo....my thought is to remove the vacuum hose from the plenum end and blow through it. When the motor is cold, the valve is open and air should be felt coming through the ports. Since my idea doesn't incorporate running the motor until warm, you instead heat the AAV with a hot blow drier or carefully with a propane torch. This should, of course, close it and air should not pass through.

If the vacuum hose is not long enough to reach with your mouth, then also detach it from the AAV and use a garden hose clamped to it in place of it. The use of the garden hose might be preferable, anyway. You know....taste, mouth, carbon.....that sort of thing.

 

if you want to be really safe using the tape method, cut a piece off of a beer can, and tape that in. i did that for about two weeks. beer can has about the same radius as the throttle body. i also temp fixed my exhaust with a beer can.. i am convinced guys can fix anything with a sledgehammer and some beer.

 

I sort of get what your saying. So, is there is a vacuum line going to the aav? I am so confused as to what the hell this stupid thing is. I know what it looks like but does it have anything to do with coolant temps?

So, try to blow through the vac line while cold and I should be able to blow through it. Then, warm, I should NOT be able to blow through it correct?

Thanks!

 

The AAV is just a supplementary air valve in the bottom of the throttle body. The wax material in the valve contracts when cold and expands when hot. When it contracts, the valve opens.... and so on. Read page 8 of this link.
http://www.autoshop101.com/

Look here at this picture:

I've circled the opening to the AAV. The top arrow is the throttle bore port and the one to the side is the vacuum hose. Follow that vac hose to where it goes to the plenum.

And, yes...you are correct.

(I looked for the spare throttle body today. Haven't found it, yet. But, it's one of several containers of spare parts. I'll look more tomorrow. I atleast found my spare V6 injectors. I'm going to send them off for rebuilding!! Woohoo!)

 

Sweet. I can't thank you enough!

Well, I think my engine is cold right now, so I guess I will go give it a shot. Where exactly is air coming out of? It goes into the intake right? I "should" be able to tell if I can blow through it or not...right?

If you don't find it it is alright. And sweet, your getting your injectors rebuilt!...lol. I heard that rebuilding them work pretty well.