Hmm, the front piston rod bearing is all copper colored. It has one scratch or score on it...I think its just really worn...LOL

 

#1 rod bearing - .003in/.076mm
#2 rod bearing - .003in/.076mm
#3 rod bearing - .003in/.076mm
#4 rod bearing - .003in/.076mm

 

I take it you don't have a manual, then? Even a Haynes manual gives the specs, but look it up in the FSM. It's all there.

 

Oh no, I do. Its a Chiltons manual. I just can't seem to find it...and I thought I did but I don't understand what the hell it is saying...lol. I'll finish with the bearings and then I'll look them up. So, the flatter they are the LESS worn they are right?

I'm making progress...whether or not it is good...it sure feels good

 

Is this right -> Crank Rod Clearance...2.0861-2.0866 <-Thats what my manuals says.

Now, I don't get it...why is it 2"+???

I'm sooo confused

 

Seems to me they should have the specs in a Chilton's, but I wouldn't know. Don't have on for my Toyotas.

Anyway, the specs will be the cylinder block or service specs sections of the FSM. And, yes...the "flatter" the better.....to a degree. I mean, you don't want them overly tight, but you're obviously not going to have that problem....hehe.

Okay....I just looked it up under service specs.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...11services.pdf
Yours are just a hair under the passable limit..... ".0039 in.". Standard size is .0010-.0022 in. So, passable, but should replace them. Only makes sense at this point as, of course, they will only continue to wear.

I'll say you need new standard size bearings. Let see what Kirk has to say.

Oh, and take some pics of the plastigage on the journals so we can see the impression pattern, if you've not cleaned it off already.

 

Thanks!

Sorry that I'm such a pain in the @ss...this WAS pretty confusing...but its actually pretty easy

I will definitely replace them...we will see what Kirk says first though.

I will take some pics...although I wiped a couple off. They were pretty even though. I'll get some up later...thanks!!!

 

Also, did you want me to do the main crankshaft bearings too?

 

yes, check the main bearings.

lets see... yes, you are nearing the allowable maximum limit for clearance. I wouldn't expect them to go 200,000 miles though .
my opinion and what I would do... go get another set of bearings .0010" (one thousandth) oversized and plastigauge them. if they bring your clearance to less than .0010 use your old ones.
make sense?

 

Yeah, that makes sense...lol.

I will definitely do that then. It should theoretically bring them IN specs though...so it should work...lol

 

Why not just get standard size bearings? And, why reuse the old ones? They are damaged.

What I mean is, if he went with standard that would bring him back well within tolerance.......tighter than what the clearances are now, yet not over or under.

 

figures you'd ask that...

before I go into that,
91Toyota- I need to ask where on the connecting rod and crank did the plastigauge get set for the measurment? was it on the piston side of the rod/bearing or was it under the cap?

 

Well, I can definitely see why you'd suggest oversized...if they'd fit, but I can't understand why you'd suggest reusing the old ones with the scoring and wear that's on them. New standard bearings would be a better choice that that.

 

'

It was on the cap side. Or, the bottom...it would be hard doing it on the top...since there is like no way to see it

 

went back and re-read....
yeah, I missed the post about copper showing on #1. whoopsie
so a new set of bearings is required, it's just which size.

 

Oh, I see both of your guys logic. I guess the ONLY way to tell is if I bought BOTH standard size and .0010 over...lol. Hmm, I do like having the standard...lets see what Kirk has to say though

 

Copper is showing on ALL the bearings. #3 is about the best out of all of them...lol. They all have scoring on them too. I don't see any marks on the crank though...and I can't feel any with my finger nail so I guess I'm good

 

umm... crank don't rotate no more?

 

The only alternative I know of is to gauge the crank journals with a micrometer and calculate from there. But, the bearings aren't THAT worn. Knowing that the crankshaft normally wears much less than bearings, I just have the feeling oversized won't fit. I'd be happy if I was wrong, though.

 

Right! I didn't catch that one.

Still, it easier to guage under the cap.