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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #461  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yeah....with a micrometer you don't have any wrenching to do, but putting the pistons back in and just tightening to get a tolerance check is not that hard, either. If you were to torque it all down the way the manual suggests, it would be a tad more work. It's really whatever you want to do. Either way will work.

I know we don't make sense. That's why it's so fun to post in your thread. Catnip, anyone?
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 08:37 PM
  #462  
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@matthew: the bathroom part was only meant to be a comment from left-field, not something relevant to what I was saying. sorry if you took it the wrong way, and in retrospect, I probably should've asked where's the beer.

also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.

@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.

@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken

@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.

Last edited by abecedarian; Jun 12, 2008 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 10:58 AM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
@matthew: the bathroom part was only meant to be a comment from left-field, not something relevant to what I was saying. sorry if you took it the wrong way, and in retrospect, I probably should've asked where's the beer.

also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.

@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.

@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken

@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.
Quite the post!

Anyway, owned the truck since december...26/27...of last year. I unbelievable bought this truck to have something more reliable than my last truck

Oh, so your saying that not only did the bearings wear the crank also wore a little bit and if I got over sized bearings that would bring them into really good specs...right?

Hmm, I will "hopefully" be buying the engnbldr complete kit next week...unless I get a new cam ...any thoughts...is it a good or bad idea?

Here's some pics...



And I found this piece in my oil pan ...what is it


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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 11:55 AM
  #464  
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
@matthew: the bathroom part was only meant to be a comment from left-field, not something relevant to what I was saying. sorry if you took it the wrong way, and in retrospect, I probably should've asked where's the beer.
Okay....gotcha. Thanks for clarifying for me.



Originally Posted by abecedarian

also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.

@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.

@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken

@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.
I understand where you were going with what you've suggested. I'd be curious to see myself. Like I said, I'd be happy if I was wrong. I guess all I was trying the say is that it doesn't matter if you know how much wear is on the crank. You know the clearance (.003") and you know that a new set of bearings will not be worn and therefore reduce the tolerance to less than .003" and return things back to spec. And, it's a strong possibility that the bearings are what have worn most given their visual appearance and comparing that to the journal surfaces. That's all.

Speaking of bearings, tri-metal, and all that jazz, I just found this source....

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...gs-toyota.html
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 03:31 PM
  #465  
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Thoughts on replacing pistons too?
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #466  
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Originally Posted by 91Toyota
And I found this piece in my oil pan ...what is it


Thats part of your timing cover. Is one of your guides broken? IE the drivers side guide?
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #467  
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
Thats part of your timing cover. Is one of your guides broken? IE the drivers side guide?
It was broken. Hmm, I didn't even know that. I thought I broke the guide while taking the head off last time. I replaced the guide though. I'll try to find the damage though. Thanks for joining us
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:08 PM
  #468  
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Okay, I just found where that piece came from...no big deal right?
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #469  
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did the chain eat through the cover? That IS a big deal
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:18 PM
  #470  
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From: Salem, OR
Originally Posted by DeathCougar
did the chain eat through the cover? That IS a big deal
Like ALL the way through the cover? Want me to just take some pics so you can see the condition of the cover? My brothers ate through...a long time ago. lol
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #471  
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If was just thinking that if the chain was sloppy enough to break a piece off the timing cover, the chain may have worn through the cover as well.

Best way to check is remove the water pump, and look for grooves in the water pump cavity.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 11:37 PM
  #472  
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
Best way to check is remove the water pump, and look for grooves in the water pump cavity.
Don't tell the boy his truck has cavities! He'll be throwing those little red chewable tablets in there!!!!!

Last edited by abecedarian; Jun 13, 2008 at 11:49 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 09:30 AM
  #473  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Here's a pic from the inside of my original timing cover.



You can see the red circle where my first timing chain had begun eating into the water jacket/pump cavity. Well, that's actually higher up and you can't see it in the pic, but you can see the grooves in this one.

The green circle is where my last timing chain failure damaged the TC cover. Is that where that chunk come from on yours?
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #474  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by 91Toyota
Thoughts on replacing pistons too?
Unless they're cracked or the wrist pins are bent, rods are bent, etc. I don't see any need to replace them.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 08:39 PM
  #475  
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
If was just thinking that if the chain was sloppy enough to break a piece off the timing cover, the chain may have worn through the cover as well.

Best way to check is remove the water pump, and look for grooves in the water pump cavity.
Yeah, I'll post some pics up tonight. I completely forgot about this...cuz my brother brought home his new Honda outboard motor

Did I mention I love Japanese products...I.E...Honda/Toyota
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 08:40 PM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by thook
Unless they're cracked or the wrist pins are bent, rods are bent, etc. I don't see any need to replace them.
Well, if it came with the master engine kit from engnbldr....unless he can subtract that off the cost then that would be great!
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #477  
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If it comes with the kit, use it.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 09:19 PM
  #478  
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
If it comes with the kit, use it.
Yep...might as well
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 09:28 PM
  #479  
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So what was her name?
you know...
<-- dualling banjos

you've got a truck to breathe new life into and you're out not doing that.

Last edited by abecedarian; Jun 14, 2008 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 09:29 PM
  #480  
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From: Salem, OR




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