Famous "high idle/surge" culprits!
#461
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yeah....with a micrometer you don't have any wrenching to do, but putting the pistons back in and just tightening to get a tolerance check is not that hard, either. If you were to torque it all down the way the manual suggests, it would be a tad more work. It's really whatever you want to do. Either way will work.
I know we don't make sense. That's why it's so fun to post in your thread. Catnip, anyone?
I know we don't make sense. That's why it's so fun to post in your thread. Catnip, anyone?
#462
@matthew: the bathroom part was only meant to be a comment from left-field, not something relevant to what I was saying. sorry if you took it the wrong way, and in retrospect, I probably should've asked where's the beer. 
also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.
@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.
@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken
@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.

also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.
@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.
@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken
@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.
Last edited by abecedarian; Jun 12, 2008 at 08:38 PM.
#463
@matthew: the bathroom part was only meant to be a comment from left-field, not something relevant to what I was saying. sorry if you took it the wrong way, and in retrospect, I probably should've asked where's the beer. 
also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.
@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.
@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken
@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.

also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.
@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.
@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken
@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.
Anyway, owned the truck since december...26/27...of last year. I unbelievable bought this truck to have something more reliable than my last truck
Oh, so your saying that not only did the bearings wear the crank also wore a little bit and if I got over sized bearings that would bring them into really good specs...right?
Hmm, I will "hopefully" be buying the engnbldr complete kit next week...unless I get a new cam
...any thoughts...is it a good or bad idea?Here's some pics...


And I found this piece in my oil pan
...what is it


#464
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!

also, if you've got a worn journal and a worn bearing and have 'x' clearance, how do you know which part wore more since they're both worn? answer- get a standard, known good part and compare the other part to it. then you know how much that other part is worn. once you know how much the first old part is worn, you can subtract that from the combined worn parts measurement to find how much the second part was worn.
what we have here is: a (bearing wear) + b (crank wear)=.003
so what is 'a' and what is 'b'?
if we substitute a known 'a' (a standard bearing) we can figure out how badly worn 'b' (the crank) is worn.
once we know 'b', we can subtract 'b' from the .003 and the result is how badly worn 'a' is: the original bearing.
@mic:
I tried to mic a shaft once. the sound engineer kept saying he wasn't getting anything.
@topic:
micrometers are not cheap to buy- expect around 100 to buy. or maybe if you have an autozone around you, I think they loan tools and only require a deposit that is refunded when you bring em back unbroken
@ 'why get the .001 oversized bearings' question a few posts ago:
the typical wear ratio between the rod bearings and crank journals is approximately 25%, so if the orginal clearance was .001 and is now .003, the crank journal wear accounts for about 1/4 of the total clearance. in this case, this means that with with standard bearings we're going to have a clearance of slightly under .002... still not bad but... given that his bearings are showing copper, we can assume that the journal is undersized (worn) as well in spite of not having visual scarring or galling. that just means that the oil system is working.
so I chose the .001 oversized bearings as the worse case scenario based on what I wrote above. I did err in saying that if the clearance was too tight to use the original bearings. If the .001 over bearings gauged out at less than .001, then standard bearings should bring it where he needs.
we're also assuming that the bearings that came out were standard... it's possible that the bearings were already oversized- unless he's owned the truck from day one and knows that the crank has never been out and the bearings never changed, we don't know what's in there.
so another reason the get a known bearing and gauge it.
Speaking of bearings, tri-metal, and all that jazz, I just found this source....
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...gs-toyota.html
#466
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
#467
#470
#471
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
If was just thinking that if the chain was sloppy enough to break a piece off the timing cover, the chain may have worn through the cover as well.
Best way to check is remove the water pump, and look for grooves in the water pump cavity.
Best way to check is remove the water pump, and look for grooves in the water pump cavity.
#472
#473
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Here's a pic from the inside of my original timing cover.

You can see the red circle where my first timing chain had begun eating into the water jacket/pump cavity. Well, that's actually higher up and you can't see it in the pic, but you can see the grooves in this one.
The green circle is where my last timing chain failure damaged the TC cover. Is that where that chunk come from on yours?

You can see the red circle where my first timing chain had begun eating into the water jacket/pump cavity. Well, that's actually higher up and you can't see it in the pic, but you can see the grooves in this one.
The green circle is where my last timing chain failure damaged the TC cover. Is that where that chunk come from on yours?
#474
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
#475
Did I mention I love Japanese products...I.E...Honda/Toyota
#476








