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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Fake weber 32/36?

Old Nov 24, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #41  
xxxtreme22r's Avatar
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
lol mine does that too I have to blip the throttle a few times to keep it running when it's really cold, but that carbs for ya.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #42  
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ya im leaving for work right now but i went the electric route when i get back i can post up what i did and what worked for me and what didnt lol might help
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #43  
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From: Park City, UT
xxxtreme, you should have:

primary idle-60
secondary idle-50
main jets(both)140
primary air corrector-170
secondary air corrector-160
pump jet-50(and only shoots into the primary bore)

That's what's listed for the DGEV/DGAV and what came in mine.
I have a stock cam(far as I know) and just a header as far as performance mods, when I had best adjustment with the 60 idle jet, I was 3 1/2 turns out. Here's what I'm at now

primary idle-65
secondary idle-55(figured the main was too small, bump the secondary too)
primary main jet-135(high elevation, seems ok so far)
secondary main jet-140
primary air corrector-170(I think I want a 160 here, too though)
secondary air corrector-160
pump jet-55, single

Here's a pretty good tuning guide for the mains and air correctors, even if it does seem to be for a little race tuned MG or something.
http://www.scuderiatopolino.com/User...retorsrev2.pdf
Haven't figured out how lean/rich I should go on the mains yet, though...one day I might get an a/f meter and get it all dialed perfectly.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #44  
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So weird how from engine to engine and carb to carb some people need larger and some smaller jets
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #45  
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That's a very good link I have ran across a few too that were really good they all need to be gathered one place for an unlitame weber tuning guide lol
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #46  
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From: Park City, UT
I'm getting towards that, but it'll be just 32/36 stuff. I'm kinda tempted now to do a sync link kit that makes the 32/36 open both barrels at once like the 38's...dang ideas you get from researching!
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #47  
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Ya i think we need a 32/36 tuning sticky there's alot of really good guids about it in Opel and mg forums
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #48  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by JonnyBoy
I I'm kinda tempted now to do a sync link kit that makes the 32/36 open both barrels at once like the 38's...dang ideas you get from researching!
That's already been done, thinking of this as well.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=6942

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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #49  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by JonnyBoy
xxxtreme, you should have:

primary idle-60
secondary idle-50
main jets(both)140
primary air corrector-170
secondary air corrector-160
pump jet-50(and only shoots into the primary bore)

That's what's listed for the DGEV/DGAV and what came in mine.
I have a stock cam(far as I know) and just a header as far as performance mods, when I had best adjustment with the 60 idle jet, I was 3 1/2 turns out. Here's what I'm at now

primary idle-65
secondary idle-55(figured the main was too small, bump the secondary too)
primary main jet-135(high elevation, seems ok so far)
secondary main jet-140
primary air corrector-170(I think I want a 160 here, too though)
secondary air corrector-160
pump jet-55, single

Here's a pretty good tuning guide for the mains and air correctors, even if it does seem to be for a little race tuned MG or something.
http://www.scuderiatopolino.com/User...retorsrev2.pdf
Haven't figured out how lean/rich I should go on the mains yet, though...one day I might get an a/f meter and get it all dialed perfectly.

I am 20 over, block shaved 10 thous, brand new stock style head with an EB 268, downey header and 2.25" no cat with a thrush turbo.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #50  
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From: Lake City, Fl
Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
That's already been done, thinking of this as well.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=6942

wish I would have found that when I had my 32/36
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #51  
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hmm that synchro kit looks cool how much of a decrease in mpg you think it would give you, and how much more oomph lol. would you have to rework your jetting ? maybe decrease the secondaries a little?
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 04:25 AM
  #52  
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
wish I would have found that when I had my 32/36

I've heard good thing and bad things about that thing. One of them being that it can be hell trying to tune the jets to syncro the 32/36. But on these motors I think once it is it would be more responsive than the 38 in which can be a beast to tune on these as well unless your running a big cam and a 20/22 hybrid with high compression that is gonna require alot of fuel.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #53  
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From: Park City, UT
I'm leaning towards the sync link even more after messing with my carb a lil more today...it was pretty flat at highway speeds, no real acceleration when with the last jet setup I did have some. Also thought to check out the progressive linkage on there, and it doesn't even engage my secondary when I have it floored! It doesn't have any vacuum operation to it too, does it?

As for the sync link, I was already thinking of either Pegasus or the kit from Pierce manifolds. Gonna do more research on it...

Last edited by JonnyBoy; Nov 25, 2010 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:51 AM
  #54  
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If I'm reading it right your flat acceleration is probaly from your secondary not opening and no I don't believe it is vacuum operated when I had mine off the truck It was all being opened by moving the throttle
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #55  
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From: Park City, UT
Not all of the flatness is that. Had some extra time at a buddy's house before we went for a short Thanksgiving wheeling run and I went back to a 140 primary main and a 145 secondary main. Not that the secondary main matters, I guess. Definitely gonna get a sync link kit now.
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