just purchased a pair of aisin hubs for my 95 4runner. when the dial is turned to free they are still locked. i have everything put together correct (so i think). when i pull the hub face from the body by only an 1/8 of an inch then they disconnect and i can turn the inner hub body freely. but once i push the face on the body where it belongs nothing its as if they are locked. They are acting just like the stupid add plates i took off in the first place. I was wondering if anyone has had these problems before and if so what should i do. i am new to this thing so any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Try reading this:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/aisin/

 

well i have looked at all this and still nothing. i have the tension spring on the right tooth on the clutch and it still wont disengage properly. is there anyways to tell if maybe i have the wrong parts on the wrong hub. i bought the hub from a 4runner just like mine so everything should work. the hub body fits on the axle fine and everything matches. it just wont disengage

 

When I rebuilt my Aisin hubs I had a similar issue. Take a look at

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14freewhee.pdf

Using the descriptions in that .PDF, the tension spring partially threads into the clutch. (drawing FA063, next to "3. Install tension spring into clutch", on page 4)

Look carefully at the drawing FA064, next to "4. Install follower pawl to clutch", on page 4.
Note the position of the tension spring and the follower pawl. In particular, look at the position of the tabs and the bend in the end of the tension spring. Take careful note of the spacing of the teeth on the clutch and the tabs on the follower pawl. You have to line them up right. It has to look just like the drawing. The tension spring kinda threads into the follower pawl.

When the three parts are assembled correctly, when you pull the follower pawl and clutch apart, the tension spring should stretch between the parts. If you can't get the tension spring to stretch (the whole thing falls apart), you don't have the parts together right.

This drawing was a bit confusing to me, at first. If you don't get the tension spring into the clutch correctly and make the parts line up exactly as shown, the hub won't disengage. It took me a bit of experimenting before I got it to work correctly. Once it I got the first one together, it was super easy to get the second one.

The follower pawl is pushed in/pulled out by the switch. The tension spring/follower pawl is what actually engages/disengages the clutch. The tension spring allows a bit of "wiggle room" in the mechanism.

I hope that this helps.

 

Im having this same problem:
Hi there.... Im in the process of installing my manual hubs and i have got a problem. i have taken apart the hub itself over and over again. Cleaned put back together.... But the passenger continues to lock up... I notice the hub itself runs free itself, but as soon as I put the clutch & spring on, it locks. Note: A small amount of grease... No matter if I put it on Unlocked or what. Now when I compare it to the other hub. Driver side, the hub is turned to the free dial, the spring is compressed more tightly. This hub works perfectly & the cv's doesn't spin. Could this hub have a worn spring or has been stretch/handled improperly. What do you think? If it is the spring, where can I purchase and how much.?

 

This was the best write up I could find when I refurbed mine:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html

I followed it exactly and did one at a time and they work flawlessly.
Good luck.

 

I didnt read any writeups before I pulled my drivers side, but I did learn you can use too much grease along time ago, so just enough to keep it lubed works for me, lol. When I packed it like a bearing, it engaged, but took a minute to slowly slide out to dis engage. 6 years later, no more problems with hubs.

 

Could be lots of things.

Spring upside down, pawl too tall (IFS and SFA different heights), rebuilt wrong, etc

They should lock/unlock like butter and work flawlessly.

:wabbit2:

 

Hot damn... thats why you are the professional. Im pretty sure, one of the clutchs is an hair size larger. Has the same amount of teeth. Its about an 1/8 of a inch larger. Thats why you are the professional. Let me see if i can get a pic up.

 

See edited pic below.

 

Okay Wab...I need your help on this one. How much can you sell me the correct pawl. As you can tell the top pawl is a lil taller. Thats my problem with the hub staying locked.

 

holy huge pics batman!

 

The pawl on the right is your problem. That is from a solid axle Aisin manual hub and that slight amount of extra height is what is keeping your hubs from not unlocking. That extra height does not allow the pawl to fully retract, thus keeping it locked regardless. Get another pawl that is shorter like the one on the left from an IFS.

I do not sell those as spare parts unfortunately, I horde them for myself in rebuilding Aisins as the ones I buy from junkyards are not always there so I have to keep my spare parts to rebuild others.

:wabbit2:

 

:wabbit2: for the win, onceagain!

 

keen eye Wabbit

 

You can buy it as part of the free wheel hub cover sub-assembly PNC 43509(part # 43509-35030). NOT CHEAP!
http://1sttoyotaparts.com/

 

Thanks again Wab.... Well if anybody have an extra pawl around or knows someone who does, please lete me know asap. I would hate to have to buy a whole entire hub.

 

Just buy a used set or even just one to have for spare parts.

:wabbit2:

 

Ill just use this thread. I cant get my hubs to engage since the cold weather has come. I made sure to use Lithium based grease for the cold temps, and I thought I used a "minimal" amount of grease as I had heard people say that they can be hard to engage when cold if you pile in too much grease.

Is it possible that I didnt use enough grease? After I rebuilt them they worked fine during the summer, however I did notice a small amount leaking out between the "cover" and the star shaped gasket. I bought new gaskets and cleaned the areas before installing.

Any ideas? Or should I just pull the Hubs off and look inside.

 

Grease doesn't typically leak out unless you used too much.

:wabbit2: