OK so i replaced the radiator and hoses but now the gauge isn't going over the 1/5 mark and never even gets close to 1/3 of the way. I am running a superstat thermostat that is suppose to be a 180 but it is a 195 (i tested it and yes it is printed 180* but it still opens at 195 every time).i was running a 180 super Murray's and it was running cool so i switched it to the superstat and yet it still is running cool. So i'm thinking its just my clutch fan. But i just thought i'd post it here to see if there are any other ideas i should check out before buying a clutch fan and wasting the 80 to 90 bucks for something i don't need.

lol also sometime after my engine was rebuilt a friend that was helping me (one of those I work at Midas i know everything kind of guys) and he didn't *#&@ing torq down my fanclutch,yes i told him but he threw a fit and gave me a speech about how he went to a class that shows him how to Feel for the max torque using his own hand so. Well needless to say it was bs. So while i was driving i hear a huge crash and my truck dies. I get out to check it out and i find that the bolts that weren't torqued had broke off and the clutch fan had flew into my radiator and tore the battery terminals and it destroyed the clutch fan (the plastic)and my $250 battery. At this time i just replaced the plastic pieces that broke and not the clutch itself.

Ok so the point of the story is to ask if you think that that rough ride it had encountered could have dirupted the function of the clutch?

 

oh and also for those who just read it let it be known. DON'T TRUST ANYONE ALWAYS CHECK OVER SOMEONE ELSE'S WORK BEFORE YOU DRIVE IT!!!!!

 

It could be the fan but I think you'd hear it if it was...I'd change the temp sending unit first.

 

how would i hear it? By listening to how hard it blows? And wouldn't the sending unit be all over the place if it was out? It slowly climes slowly like normal and just stops right at the same place. I can see it rise a little and fall when the thermostat opens and closes

 

It shouldn't be the fan. If that sticks "on", you just lose power (and it makes a lot of noise while cruising down the freeway).

Temp sending unit or thermostat is not operating properly. I see that you tested it, but is it installed correctly?

 

If it's an out-of-spec sending unit, it's resistance is incorrect for any given temp. That would cause a "normally high" or "normally low" reading, but otherwise operate properly.

 

lol yes it is installed correctly
and for your second post it is a original spec. I get what your saying but why would it read fine before but not now unless the wires are damaged or the connections are corroded thus giving less current. I will just pull it and test it i guess.

 

If you're going by the stock gauge, then you really don't have any idea how hot or cold the engine is running. My truck runs around 1/4 90% of the time with a 195° 'stat and the previous identical '94 I had ran the same way....from the factory.

A crude test for the fan clutch is to get the engine good and hot, shut it off, and then try to spin the fan. You should be able to turn the fan, but it should not spin freely. I just went through this with someone else on the trail over the weekend. Their rig(w/3VZE) was boiling at low speeds and after looking under the hood I knew why; no shroud and the fan would freewheel for at least five seconds after the engine was shut off.

I also recommend using the correct 195° thermostat. T-stats are rated by the the temperature at which they start to open, not by when they are full open. I am not at all surprised that your 180 isn't fully open until 195.

 

i just did a drive around town. don't see any difference in my clutch fan wheither i drive around or not. Does anyone know what temp. the clutch fan engages? and the thermostat doesnt start to open until it hits 195 and a couple seconds later its open all the way.

 

For a quick check, get a thermometer and remove the radiator cap and see how hot the coolant really is, if you have an air pocket in the cooling system and the coolant temp sensor is not submerged you won,t get an accuate reading on your dash gauge. Just a thought. Most of the time a stuck open t-stat causes this , but you seem to have proven that it is working, you got me thinking????
Pigman

 

The temperature sending unit can go bad and read lower than the actual temp or not at all, i had this happen to me, and i replaced the sending unit and that solved the problem.

 

this is what mine is doing except it takes forever at least 10 to 15 mins to get to 1/5th on the gauge!