Engine Problems
#1
Engine Problems
I know a long post but wanted to make sure i got it all:
A little history on vehicle, it is a 1990 Runner w/V6, 5 speed, SR5. i got it in january with a bad clutch. that I replaced along with the fly wheel also.
It ran fine, had plenty of power then about a month ago all the sudden i gave it throttle and it started to have problems. It lost power, would not idle, stalled at stop lights. Got home an the next day would not start at all.
Things I have already done before this happened:
Timing belt
Thermostat
Power steering pump and belt
Alternator belt
The PIA water bypass hose behind intake manifold (removed manifold plenum) using FSM as a guideline to get it back together properly all vacuum hoses routed properly. Double cked this a few times, replaced most of them along with the pvc hoses and hoses for the AIR system as most of them were Brittle and cracked. Installed new plenum gasket (intake manifold). I have cked and rechecked the sensors back there to make sure one has not came loose
After loosing power i checked the timing belt and cked that the cams were aligned. They were correctly timed. So I started to ck the plugs for color and wetness to see if they were fowled and found that the #1,3,5 (passenger side) plugs were loose. so i tightened them and will start now but idles poorly and still no power. Then I cked the timing per FSM..At 10 degrees. so I replaced the plugs wires and cap/rotor. still not fixed. so next thing I did is a cylinder drop test where you pull plug wires so see if idle changes. if i pull of either #1,2,or4 it dies, if i pull off #3,5,or 6 the idle stays the same. Meaning that #3,5,and 6 are dead. these plugs in these cylinders are wet with fuel keep in mind that this is 2 cylinders on passenger side and 1 on driver side. Also replaced the fuel filter. I have ck the compression on all cylinders. it is lower that spec but not by much (5-10 psi) so with 290,000 miles on it i know the engine is worn but the compression is still good. I have not been able to get a fuel pressure tester yet, but that was my next thing to ck.
any one w/suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thanks
A little history on vehicle, it is a 1990 Runner w/V6, 5 speed, SR5. i got it in january with a bad clutch. that I replaced along with the fly wheel also.
It ran fine, had plenty of power then about a month ago all the sudden i gave it throttle and it started to have problems. It lost power, would not idle, stalled at stop lights. Got home an the next day would not start at all.
Things I have already done before this happened:
Timing belt
Thermostat
Power steering pump and belt
Alternator belt
The PIA water bypass hose behind intake manifold (removed manifold plenum) using FSM as a guideline to get it back together properly all vacuum hoses routed properly. Double cked this a few times, replaced most of them along with the pvc hoses and hoses for the AIR system as most of them were Brittle and cracked. Installed new plenum gasket (intake manifold). I have cked and rechecked the sensors back there to make sure one has not came loose
After loosing power i checked the timing belt and cked that the cams were aligned. They were correctly timed. So I started to ck the plugs for color and wetness to see if they were fowled and found that the #1,3,5 (passenger side) plugs were loose. so i tightened them and will start now but idles poorly and still no power. Then I cked the timing per FSM..At 10 degrees. so I replaced the plugs wires and cap/rotor. still not fixed. so next thing I did is a cylinder drop test where you pull plug wires so see if idle changes. if i pull of either #1,2,or4 it dies, if i pull off #3,5,or 6 the idle stays the same. Meaning that #3,5,and 6 are dead. these plugs in these cylinders are wet with fuel keep in mind that this is 2 cylinders on passenger side and 1 on driver side. Also replaced the fuel filter. I have ck the compression on all cylinders. it is lower that spec but not by much (5-10 psi) so with 290,000 miles on it i know the engine is worn but the compression is still good. I have not been able to get a fuel pressure tester yet, but that was my next thing to ck.
any one w/suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thanks
#2
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 36
From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Seems like I just answered this post last night...
Well, the first thing you need to do is check is that you are getting spark all the way TO THE PLUG electrode on the cylinders that don't appear to be firing.
If not, then trace it back to the distributor & go from there.
Is the ECU throwing any codes?
Well, the first thing you need to do is check is that you are getting spark all the way TO THE PLUG electrode on the cylinders that don't appear to be firing.
If not, then trace it back to the distributor & go from there.
Is the ECU throwing any codes?
Last edited by TNRabbit; Mar 14, 2007 at 04:49 PM.
#3
My bad, i posted same one 2x...thought id posted the other one to ttora....yes i have replaced the plugs. i was thinking that if i did not have enough fuel pressure then the injectors are not closing all the way (pressure holds them closed) and basicaly over fueling those cylinders. too much fuel= flooding...
i need to get a hold of a fuel pressure guage, if any one has one i could barrow (in the denver area) id appreciate it
i need to get a hold of a fuel pressure guage, if any one has one i could barrow (in the denver area) id appreciate it
Last edited by Wild Turkee; Mar 14, 2007 at 07:08 PM.
#7
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 36
From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Factory coil (Toyota calls it an IGNITOR) is more than adequate & extremely reliable. If you are getting spark, I doubt that's the problem. I would def pull the plugs & crank it to see if you're getting spark at the electrode.
Trending Topics
#9
I'm with rabbit.. Pull one of the "bad" plugs, and turn it over with the plug removed. See if you have spark at the electrode, then I'd start check for injector pulse, even though you smell fuel.
Spark + compression + fuel = running... (usually)
The way the ignition system works, it's pretty odd if you have consistent failures only on those cylinders and all of a sudden, although I suppose that something could have happened internal to the distrbutor at those partular rotor points.....
Spark + compression + fuel = running... (usually)
The way the ignition system works, it's pretty odd if you have consistent failures only on those cylinders and all of a sudden, although I suppose that something could have happened internal to the distrbutor at those partular rotor points.....
#11
The ECU fires in a mode that we'll call "next cylinder" - meaning it doesn't know #1 from #4. It just knows when it's time to fire the spark. The distributor sorts out where that spark gets "distributed" to. The inductive pickup that corresponds to that cylinder could be bad (which would be very odd) - but it's not going to be the ECU, at least per problem description... My opinion anyway.
#12
thanks for the help, i did reset the computer (diconected it over night to make sure it worked), i have found that my fuel presure is low. I came across a holley intank fuel pump (12-903) for a GM (new still sealed in box) that i had "put away" and forgot about, and was going to try to replace the stock runner pump with the holley. I know it will be a little work, but i think it will work
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
steve miller
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
2
Oct 10, 2015 01:40 AM
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
Jul 6, 2015 01:20 PM



