Engine knocks when starts
#1
Engine knocks when starts
I have a 95 pickup with 22 re motor with 84,500 miles on it and it knocks for like secomd when it starts. Is this normal? How can I stop it? I just put amsoil 5w30 synthetic oil it and it still does it ....
#3
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That is normal as far as any 22RE FI I know. Like Chuki said the oild presure needs to take up the slack in the timing chain, also these engines run on the lean side so you get a knock until the ECU sorts everything out.
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I'd consider the timing chain slack issues these engines love to have. That LH chain guide likes to fall apart and make all kinds of racket. This problem eventually leads to a hole in the timing cover which will fill the engine's oil sump with coolant.
#6
I replaced the head gasket and the timing chain tensioner 2 months ago. The truck runs mint but I am a little nervous about the slight knock when starting. It only does when motor warmed up and sits for a little bit. When cold does not do it. I am running amsoil 5w30 synthetic.
What would happen if I ran thicker oil? 20w50??
What would happen if I ran thicker oil? 20w50??
#7
1st of all I would get rid of the 5w30 and go with at least 10w30...
although my new fav oil has become amsoil 15w40 synthetic, I give my hybrid engine hell, and I was recommended that if I do alot of slow crawling or high rpm that a 15w40 would be a good engine oil to use.
although my new fav oil has become amsoil 15w40 synthetic, I give my hybrid engine hell, and I was recommended that if I do alot of slow crawling or high rpm that a 15w40 would be a good engine oil to use.
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Originally Posted by pat2724
I replaced the head gasket and the timing chain tensioner 2 months ago. The truck runs mint but I am a little nervous about the slight knock when starting. It only does when motor warmed up and sits for a little bit. When cold does not do it. I am running amsoil 5w30 synthetic.
What would happen if I ran thicker oil? 20w50??
What would happen if I ran thicker oil? 20w50??
#10
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Yeah, it's called piston slap. I read that it's considered normal for the 22r series motors to do this, even though mine never has in 22 years. Don't worry about it until the knocking is continuous with a warm motor.
By the way, what weight motor oil are you using? Use nothing below 10-30.
By the way, what weight motor oil are you using? Use nothing below 10-30.
#12
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Originally Posted by pat2724
I am using 5w 30 and am thinking about switching it to castrol high mileage oil.... it has only 85,000 miles and runs mint.
Any opinions on the high mileage oils???
Any opinions on the high mileage oils???
Aha! Yeah, 5-30 is too thin for these motors....well, not the bottom end, but the whole rocker assembly was setup to use 10-30 or thicker. It gets noisy with thinner oils.
As far as oil, a couple of years ago I would have said, "Use anything and you'll be fine." Things have changed though.
Starting around 2001, oil makers were required to practically eliminate the amount of zinc in their oils because zinc is a little hard on catalytic converters. Yeah, that's fine and dandy for roller rocker motors, but zinc is MANDITORY for conventional rockers, or cams and rocker arms (or lifters if it's that design) will be damaged. That's is exactly what is happening. Older pushrod motors are wiping cam lobes and dishing lifters. I don't know about the 3.0, but the 22re is NOT a roller rocker design and REQUIRES zinc in the oil
The common practice now is to either use oil containg a high amount of zinc, or use a supplement such as STP oil treatment or GM’s EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). In my 59 Pontiac, I use both. Shell Rotella 15-40 contains a higher amount of zinc than all but a few motor oils so I use that only in the Toyota. I use 15-40 Shell Rotella and STP oil treatment in the Pontiac.
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