Inferno451

Hey guys!

I'm going to be putting my 22re together on wednesday when i get my crankshaft back from getting ground down at the machine shop. Just wondering if you guys have any tips or tricks for getting it together so it DOESNT LEAK! Running well would be nice too . I didn't have a ridge on the cylinders, so i cross hatched them really well, and i'm replacing the clutch while i'm in there. This is my first time building an engine, i was going to follow the FSM that i have. What do you guys use for piston installation? I've heard engine oil, assembly lube, wd-40, lots of different things used for proper ring seating. The engine is on a stand completely dissasembled. Is it a good idea to replace front transmission components while i'm in there? Any tips on that? Thanks guys! I'd appreciate not having to pull the block out again .

70elcoss

clean the crank VERY good before torquing bearings to take clearnaces, i just did my first complete rebuild 2 months ago and had to buy a new set of main bearings because i didnt clean the crank as well as i thought i did and some dirt got embedded in the bearing.

besides making sure everything is clean everything else is pretty straightforward. i did get an oil leak at the oil pan i think but i think thats because one of my oil pan bolts are stripped. replacing all the clutch components is a good idea. for the pistons i used a ring compressor and was pretty easy with the exception of cutting my hands on it a couple times hahaha when installing pistons i coated the cylinder walls with a little engine oil but put assembly lube on all the bearings and cam lobes after taking checking the clearances.
heres the ring compressor i used http://www.sears.com/craftsman-pisto...p-00904716000P cheap and got the job done. also make sure you have your ring gaps placed in the right direction, its in the FSM

Rollz79

Do not be sky on the assembly lube. A Dry start up can kill a motor just my .02

Inferno451

Thanks guys. Any particular places you like to use rtv or loctite? I was thinking maybe on the chain tensioner since it's only torqued to 11 ft-lb, i don't think it's going to come off, but might as well be sure, right?

70elcoss

Well mine was a 3.0 so I used rtv on the oil pan, rear main seal housing, and oil pump. Only place I used loctite was on the flywheel bolts. I torqued everything to factory specs

Sensei

Just curious, how much did you crosshatch ? It is possible to remove material from excessive honing.. check your cylinder bore diameter, piston to cylinder clearance, make sure you still have taper, pre-fit your rings and check the end gap. This is all standard pre-assembly checks to ensure all your tolerances are within spec. Also your crosshatch should be at a 45* angle.

Inferno451

Didn't crosshatch too deep, just enough to to get some good lines in there. Got it as close to 45 degrees as i could with a hand drill. Even if i check tolerances, i don't really have any way to fix anything (short on cash, machine shop takes at least 2 weeks to do ANYTHING and i need to get home). This block only needs to last about 4 or 5 months, and ANYTHING will be better than the block that was in there! I could easily move the pistons around in the bore, and one of the rod cap bolts was MISSING! Amazing it was still running at all. Had decent compression even.

Night-rider123

I use trans fluid on cylinder walls.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I'll be the first to ask...what is "crosshatching" when rebuilding?

You should take tons of photos and document this for everyone


Good luck with the build!

MudHippy

It's what you hope to accomplish by honing a cylinder.


FYI, removing too much material with a cylinder hone is HIGHLY unlikely. Even if you tried to. The cylinder walls are MUCH harder than you'd think. A cylinder hone is only meant to barely scratch them, and that's pretty much all it will do. No matter how it's used.

Sensei

Never stated too much material, it is possible to remove material with a 3 stone hone. Not likely with cheap ass ball hones though.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys!

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

I recommend toyota black fipg. That stuff is amazing. When you have the motor all buttoned up and in the truck, crank it over with the starter with out plugs to build up oil pressure. Keep the rad cap off and keep that thing full.

Building it up is easy, clean, clean, clean and clean, and you'll be alright. Don't be afraid to ask any and all questions, no matter how silly or stupid they may seem. I built my motor in November and its going strong. Good luck, be patient and have fun. Paint it up if you have the time.

Inferno451

Well, looks like the block's been bored over .5mm and i have standard rings. More waiting! I was REALLY hoping to have this thing together tomorrow... I won't, but just out of curiosity, what would happen if you had a ring end gap of .075?

Sensei

Too much....

Standard end gap;
#1 - .009-.015
#2 - .007-.017
oil - .008-.032

Maxium end gap;
#1 - .039
#2 - .040
Oil - .056