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EGR removal on 3.0

Old 01-12-2006, 11:45 AM
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EGR removal on 3.0

I have done some searching and such online and am wondering about the effect removing the EGR on a 3.0 would have on the engine and the ECU. Before you go flaming me on the moral issue and on and on, this if for a custom plenum I'm working on.

Will the ECU throw a code and go into loop mode without the EGR? Is there some trick to doing this?
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:18 PM
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as ive had an egr CE code for years now (with an EGR valve) it is my understand that the ECU will continue to be unhappy about the EGR valve unless you have it reprogramed, no way around it as far as i konw.
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:07 PM
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Yea but does it change anything or just throw the code?
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:21 PM
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theres a few posts on here on pros/cons of removing the egr valve. just need to do a search and a little reading.
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:24 PM
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well in my case i belive the EGR valve still works fine. the computer is just confused about it because of the headers i have.

From what i understand if you have the ECU reprogramed to NOT have it, then everything is cool. otherwise its still looking for it to recurulate hot gas into the intake and (i think) it adjusts the fuel mixture for this (which is why the computer watches the o2 sensor when its calling for EGR) so if it adjusts the mixture but that doesnt match real life, you wind up with pinging and other "stuff"

it was been dicussed before although i never took an indepth look at what the others have said about it.

i would say its possible as i belive the canadian version of the truck had little to no emmsion controls
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:38 PM
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I did the search on here and found some stuff on the 2.4. Thing is the 3.0 uses a different ECU system and it monitors the EGR. I'd like to know what exactly the ecu does with those errors.

By reprograming you mean a piggyback or flash the stock ECU?
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:44 PM
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afaik there is no piggy back sold for the 3vze ECU. every "reprogram" ive seen mention of is a flash of the p-rom ie you have to ship your ECU off and have it done. (which is why ive never had mine done dispite haveing headers, intake etc)

btw there are more than a few threads on this per
https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=1380226

( i think that will work)

Last edited by snap-on; 01-12-2006 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by snap-on
afaik there is no piggy back sold for the 3vze ECU. every "reprogram" ive seen mention of is a flash of the p-rom ie you have to ship your ECU off and have it done. (which is why ive never had mine done dispite haveing headers, intake etc)

btw there are more than a few threads on this per
https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=1380226

( i think that will work)
I looked at those threads already, but thanks .

So do you know where I need to send the ECU if I want it flashed? I've never heard of that for the 3.0.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:42 PM
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Cool

OBD-I doesn't care much about the EGR system. If you can't fix it by cleaning the valve & chicking the vacuum lines etc & you don't have emessions testing. Throw the entire system away & cap the fitting on the exhaust manifold.
If your ECU happens to have an EGR sensor (Most OBD-I does not), that's why god invented the 10K resistor. Disconnect the harness from the sensor, shove the resistor in the harness case closed.
10k ohm normally is wha the Toyota ECU's are looking for on the EGR sensors, but you may have to play with a few. Not that they're expencive!


You can also leave the valve, modulator & such there, and ditch the pipe on the manifold if it's out of view. Just make sure you cap the holes on the valve off, or it'll open & you'll have a nice huge vacuum leak!
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Old 01-12-2006, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Toysrme
OBD-I doesn't care much about the EGR system. If you can't fix it by cleaning the valve & chicking the vacuum lines etc & you don't have emessions testing. Throw the entire system away & cap the fitting on the exhaust manifold.
If your ECU happens to have an EGR sensor (Most OBD-I does not), that's why god invented the 10K resistor. Disconnect the harness from the sensor, shove the resistor in the harness case closed.
10k ohm normally is wha the Toyota ECU's are looking for on the EGR sensors, but you may have to play with a few. Not that they're expencive!


You can also leave the valve, modulator & such there, and ditch the pipe on the manifold if it's out of view. Just make sure you cap the holes on the valve off, or it'll open & you'll have a nice huge vacuum leak!
Thats what I wanted to hear. OK so if I removed the clip on the harness and put a multimeter on the sensor would it tell me what I need as far as a resister? would I have to have the engine at a certain RPM to get the reading I need?
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Old 01-12-2006, 05:14 PM
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Cool

Yes, that would tell you - but realize if your sensor is faulty, you're gonna get a reading telling you what resistor the ECU is NOT going to like!

Try cleaning it first tho, or replace it.

For what snap-on said - EGR is an anti-detonant. It richens the mixture a lot when it is used. When you take it away - many engines will have some pinging issues under mild throttle & throttle transisions because they lean out alot.
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Old 01-13-2006, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Toysrme
Yes, that would tell you - but realize if your sensor is faulty, you're gonna get a reading telling you what resistor the ECU is NOT going to like!

Try cleaning it first tho, or replace it.

For what snap-on said - EGR is an anti-detonant. It richens the mixture a lot when it is used. When you take it away - many engines will have some pinging issues under mild throttle & throttle transisions because they lean out alot.
So will the ECU be able to figure this out or will it always be hunting for a good idle? If I ran a higher octane gas would that help? I don't really wanna have to pay for premium these days.
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Old 01-13-2006, 08:30 AM
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Cool

Excuse the use of car v6 pics.
It should not be able to change idle at all, and no you should not need higher octane gas. Do it first, then if it pings, you can either drop ignition timing back a * at a time until it stops, or loosen your AFM cog a notch at a time to richen yourself up.
Obviously both of those decrease performance on a stock engine (Normally, most stock engine's don't need more fuel)

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Don't expect performance to come from it. Tho it is a great time to take your upper intake manifold off & clean the entire inside by hand, along with what parts of the lower itnake manifold you can reach.

This will restore a tiny bit of velocity in the intake manifold lost when the carbon & oil builds-up. The oil isn't a problem, but the carbon burns the oil & they both stick to the wall. Most of the time you loose 5-10bhp on a Toyota engine from notihng more than carbon buildup in the intake tract if it hasn't been cleaned in say 9-24 months. That really depends on how active the EGR valve is.

1999 1mz-fe Camry - pick taken in 2004. (1mz-fe's have over-active EGR valves I think, they build up faster than other v6's)
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VS

My 1993 3vz-fe ES 300, 9 months after cleaning the intake track, and deleted both EGR, and front valve cover breath & rear valve cover PCV valve. Only fluid on my intake walls is gas!
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My intake tracts looked like this when I took it apart that first time.
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Last edited by Toysrme; 01-13-2006 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 01-13-2006, 08:36 AM
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Cool

If you had to drop a degree, or two of base timing on the dizzy, or add a click, or two of fuel to keep from pinging under mild load / throttle transisions; you'd still gain overall power just cleaning your intake, *if* you've never done it before, or rescently.

It's also a great time to clean your IAC/ISC valve & throttlebody!
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:13 AM
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This is what I did:

1) Removed EGR assembly.
2) Fabricated block off plate for intake manifold
3) Pinched exhaust manifold EGR tube and JB welded it shut (works perfect, no leaks)
4) ECU threw a code, EGR malfunction, MPG went from 20 to 13.
5) Inserted 10KOhm resistor into EGR sender connector.
6) MPG went back up to 20, insanely dirty EGR carbon crap removed from intake and no longer being injected into my motor. More part throttle power. Screw emissions.
7) Profit.
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:43 AM
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Well if it leans out the mixture some wouldn't that mean a more efficient burn as a result of higher heat and give you more power and efficiency?
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:59 AM
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being in combustion engine the maximum efficency is a function of the delta T. the diffrence between the intake air and maxium temp reched at combustion which occures at the adiabatic flame temp.

As far as i know the main problem you face when running lean is burning exhuast valves (which if i understand correctly, you actually melt a hole/edge off the valve) as well as cooking motor oil and all that badness.
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:00 AM
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anybody know what this does for emissions? can you expect it to jump through the roof, mild increase??
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:29 AM
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a 3vze intake that hasnt been cleaned in QUITE some time



and
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Toysrme
It's also a great time to clean your IAC/ISC valve & throttlebody!
Correct me if I'm wrong but we don't have these on the SOHC.
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