phorensic

You will fail emissions on both a visual and the sniffer. AKA, it's illegal to remove your EGR. No problem if you know the loophole.

snap-on

visiual?!?! just the sniffer hear in STL

suprathepeg

Any takers?

BeenYota

What is the common verdict here? Has anyone ACTUALLY had head gasket failure linked to their EGR deletion?

BeenYota

4+ years testing. Those of you who invested removal of the EGR any still have a strong engine?

TNRabbit

I just unplugged the vacuum line to mine when it went bad & it's been running fine for a year/30,000 miles now.

diablo

My EGR has not worked in 30,000+/- miles and Ive had no problem. the last 10k are with the 10k resistor pluged in to the EGR temp.sensor. I get 20mpg in town and 23 on the hwy. I have heard people talk about HG failure but no real proof of it related to egr blocked off,just talk so far.

camo31_10.50

get rid of you're stock exhaust crossover (either headers, or have a custom exhaust made with a crossover that goes under the tranny.) and no more headgasket issues.


i deleted my EGR when i rebuilt my motor, and when i started it up, no warm idle..cold idle is just fine, but warm idle is a no go....could this be related to my 3vz having no EGR now?

BeenYota

Running ceramic headers and heat treated stainless exhaust.

Gaining a bit more insight. Was the removed EGR troubleshooted as failing? Any others experience this after removing their EGR's?

MudHippy

Here's my first post on the subject, 3 1/2 years ago. I'd had it removed(blocked off) for a little while before this post, at least 6 months to a year before then.
https://www.yotatech.com/50425720-post3.html
Not failing, but serving no good purpose as far as I'm concerned.

I've had some engine troubles since then. A couple significant ones too. Due to removing the EGR? Doubtful, at least in it's entirety. I've modified many other systems for performance gains, any of which could be blamed for pushing the engine more than it's meant to be pushed. Running lean 3 clicks on the AFM, all emissions systems removed, timing advanced 23 deg. BTDC, 91 octane gas, open exhaust(mostly, 1/2 empty cat, no muffler), ISR mod, etc. I've got a lead foot too, which I blame for most of what blows on it though.

Anyways, the only serious issues I've had with my 3VZE are a blown head gasket(stock HG lasted to 215k+), and a cracked piston about a year later(a year ago from now). Other than that I beat the bajeezus out of it regularly with no issues A TALL! AND it's got 230,000 miles on it!

BUT, it has crossed my mind before...

I still say everyone should remove their EGR valves. They do more harm than good, don't matter which way you slice it!

BeenYota

No emmissions here in MN and my EGR is shot. You've convinced me to remove it again. Thanks for the insight.

With your experience and mileage do you also beleive in the seafoam through the intake, and adjusting AFM? Adjusted a bit richer since the header/intake/exhaust and so far so good.

MudHippy

Seafoam = good stuff. I use it regularly.

Regarding adjusting the AFM I can only speak from my experience. I finally got around to messing with it because it was malfunctioning. So I tore it apart to see if I could fix it, and since I was in there I figured I'd try some minor adjusting. I got it all cleaned out and working again. Then after reinstalling it, I wanted to try leaning it a bit so I gave it 2 clicks lean and drove it to see if I could tell. It definitely seemed to make a difference, so I went for 4. I couldn't get it to idle smooth with 4, but driving it felt the best. So I settled with 3 and a smooth idle.

kirkerik

i will also be removing my EGR. It's clear to me that dumping that stuff in the plenum is clogging things up. It also helps to see the clean results in the plenum when the EGR is removed. So, thanks all!

Mudhippy: Did you have to adjust your timing w/ that lean adjust? I hear others as well as Beenyota above richen up the AFM two clicks to prevent pinging during acceleration.

It seems to me the mixture could be richened up just a bit to compensate for the absence of the exhaust gases in the plenum. Considering there is a little more air too.

If your leaning out and getting more air then is'nt that a double lean scenario? What am i missing?

TNRabbit

There's no need to remove an entire EGR. Simply unplug the wiring harness to it & substitute a 10,000 ohm resistor (Radio Shack, under $2 for a pack of 5) into the wiring harness side to stop Check Engine light.

Then, disconnect & plug the vacuum hose going to the top of the EGR. It will never open again. I did this almost 2 years ago & haven't had an issue since.

BeenYota

Rabbit - you contemplate blocking plate for the manifold after plugging the vacuum hose going to the top of the EGR?

Yotaguy0001

So if i disable my EGR on my 92 4runner, do I disable the O2 sensor as well? Also my egr doesn't have the temp sensor, there is a plug for it, but it's not there; and I don't have a error code from it. I'm guessing mine is old enough that it wasn't used? Do I plug a 10k ohm resistor into it anyway?

kirkerik

No, do not disable the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor helps to control the air:fuel ratio, as i understand it.

I do not have any wires going to my EGR so i can not speak of the EGR's connection to the ECU. I must conclude that no wires/plug = no resistor? I have a BVSV (bi-metal vacuum switching valve) in a port on the intake manifold. This valve is connected w/ vacuum hoses to the EGR vacuum modulator next to the EGR. If you do NOT have an electric plug on the EGR system then perhaps you do not need a resistor?

Inspect carefully everything going to and from the EGR on your truck to be sure!

Yes, there is no need to remove the entire EGR. Disabling is enough but i just want to free up clutter in the engine bay.

TNRabbit

Nope.

I fully intended to fix it but have never gotten around to it. We'll see if it passes emissions...if not, then I'll be FORCED to fix it~

BeenYota

Negative experience possibly linked to seafoam. I've used SF plenty of times in the past and maybe twice a year through the 3vze within the past 3 years. The motor was running tip top yet I recently purchased seafoam to clean up the snowmobile, auger, and lawn mower prior to snowfall. I treated each of them and used the last of it through the pcv and booster of the truck. Same and slow as always truck idles a bit high while pouring it in and then after about 1/8 of a can turn of the key listening as it diesels down, and let sit for 15-30 minute before starting it up - I do this twice. Drove around the block a few times to ensure the feeling of enhanced throttle snap and noticable change when letting off acceleration knowing the intake is tighter, cleaner, and stable idle. Parked the truck out of the garage for a change and upon starting it up I noticed the idle was at 1100 @ 20 degrees F (normal) and then instead of falling to 850 (as usual) it dropped to around 100RPM, not a rough idle but close to killing. I drove it around and when ever I shift out of gear the RPM drops near 50-100. The temp did drop to near 20F overnight, maybe this shrunk up some rubber or fouled a plug, ???

Anyone have another excuse besides the Seafoam?

h_louviere

Where can I get this 10k resistor you are talking about?