Well, getting ready to assemble everything. Got the block as clean as I can get it I think. Been scraping with a lot of razors and rubbing with alcohol. I'll have a last go at it today and then start bolting things up. Just double checking that I am recalling this correctly. I need the power steering bracket and the alternator bracket ready to go with the cover. Anything else?

 

Does it have AC? If so, ....then that! lol. How you been, man?

 

Well, we went to yosemite this weekend, me my brother up there who climbed half dome for the first time. He's really into rock climbing. Been up El Capitan and Half Dome this summer. We got nearly 30 mpg in the bimmer

Started on the truck today. Immediately broke a water pump bolt at 10lbs =( performance 22re is sending me a new gasket and set of bolts tomorrow. Luckily I got the broken bolt out. How was your trip, or are you still on it?

 

Nope, I'm back.... gonna go GRUB, BIG TIME! lol. I'll be back.... and just so you know, if you don't wanna wait, Lowes and Napa should both have the studs and bolts. Maybe pep boys as well. I got mine at Napa, they just gave them to me cuz they felt so bad, lol. It's very common to happen. Sorry to hear that's holdin you up! GRRR

BBL8r t8r~! lol

 

Hey man, got some work done today! I still need to clean out the intake manifold, but there was some surface rust dusting showing up from the oil free block over the weekend, so I wiped it all down with Alcohol. Got my butt in gear and got some stuff bolted up. I will just have to deal with the water pump after my bolts come.



PS you must have the wrong stud kit if it's majorly contacting the valve cover.

 

I ended up doing what jerry said, which was do a very thin film of grey sealer on both sides of the gaskets for the timing cover. I used a plastic knife to spread a super thin layer on the timing cover side. Stuck it on the cover and spread the on the block side of the gasket using the same method. We'll see if that works, but it felt like it is sealed nicely despite the annoying rock gaskets which don't really fit up that well. I had to take a razor blade to resize them and make the bolt holes line up perfectly. compared to the toyota head gasket which was just perfect fit. There is no question about OEM gaskets being nicer in my opinion. The price is right on the rock gasket kit though.

 

Anyone have a picture of where these two tubes bolt to the back of the head, I can't remember how they bolt up. I am pretty sure they bolt to that plate on the back of the head.

 

Also, any idea on the torque for fuel lines? just hand snug or? I really don't want any fuel leaking

 

On mine, only one line bolts to the actual backing plate on the head. I think yours is a newer model, right? With a reed valve, etc?

Anyway, yes, it bolts to the back of the head under the lower driver side blocking plate bolt(I THINK... It's been a while).... At least that one that winds up going vertically into the intake, center? Yep, that one, it bolts to the back of the head, using that one blocking plate mounting bolt. The chassis ground also goes under one of those. I'm SURE I have pics in my thread and photobucket...but I'd have to look, and can't just now.

Far as the fuel lines..... eh? You're meaning the CSI banjo and fuel filter banjo and the Damper and fuel pressure regulator????? or are you talking about fuel lines to the tank? I can't think of any other fuel lines than I mentioned that needed to be removed. So details, please? Maybe a pic?

 

PS> Those hoses should REALLY be bolted to the back before you slap the head in... but that's 20/20 stuff now...so, you'll just have to nick the knuckles! lol. You'll get it though....it's just a pain to a degree.

Be back asap with pics if no one slings em at ya!

 

Ahhhhh! WAIT! lol.

Ok, ....the second heat hose/hard line coolant one you're asking about? If it's the one just like mine.... It actually stays on the drive side, then goes right into the back of the timing cover/ driver side. It actually goes under the exhaust manifold/header(either) I mentioned that in my build as well, how it helped to have sealed the timing cover side, but not the back side of that portion of the gasket. It's not a big deal, ...you can buy 'cut out's' made by 3M at any parts store. Then you would just cut away the existing portion that's part of the timing cover gasket...and put your cut out in it's place(I did that for the passenger side one and it worked fine for 5K until I rebuilt again.) You might want to cut it away, anyhow, trimming it away from the portion that will not be effected, ya know? (You'll see what I mean as you dig.

BTW, if it's that hose/hard line with two bolts that go through the timing cover? I would hold off on the steering stuffs, etc., just yet. In fact, I unbolted the oil dipstick retainer(that goes over the alternator bracket/into head), swiveled it out of the way and then pulled back on the dipstick JUST A TINY bit to get that hose/hard line in there(the flange on the end of the hard line is a lil in the way).... pulling back just slightly on the dip stick tube itself.(again, you'll see what i mean if that's the one in question)

 

I'll get back to you tomorrow with details on those pipes, I am pretty certain they bolt to the bottom two bolts on the back of the head on that plate. I remember them having to come off to get the head out. Just not sure how they fit in there. I think I got both water lines bolted up and sealed to the timing cover, I think these are different ones. I'll confirm tomorrow what I'm talking about. I just got ahead of myself and wanted that head on there and then after it was too late I realized it would have been a good idea to transfer the various bolt up items... you live and you learn.

I mean the fuel lines from the fuel filter to the fuel rail etc, I think they are called banjo bolts.

 

I discovered that my transmission has been pulled before by the previous owner because the top bolt is not all the way in and I think it has been cross threaded. I tried to turn it and it really didn't want to turn. I am just going to leave it because it hasn't caused a problem in the last 50k miles.

 

Ok, ...see, under the header, where that one heater hose/hard line goes, right behind the header in mine?>>>>>>>>>>>



PS> If you look just to the right of the Center/Bottom Header Stud.... see that lil bolt? That's where that pipe is bolted to the block.

I can get better pics if you need em.... pretty sure that's what you're lookin at.

 

Unless you have an extra coolant pipe I just don't know about...... easy way to rule it out so I can shut up, lol.......

Do you have both the coolant pipes/flanges that go into the back of the timing cover installed?????? The driver side one, specifically?

 

Yeah, those fuel banjos, as I mentioned, ....they're kind of a "feel it out" kinda thing.... I went pretty tight, but didn't have to go as tight the second time because I used all new banjo-copper washers(The OEM ones for the CSI portion are "One Copper and One Stainless"....and I cranked that bolt down pretty snug as well... maybe 15-18#? You can always snug em a lil further.

Don't forget, when you deal with the fuel filter.... you need to have that water pipe that runs up into the intake?>>>> You need to have it bolted behind the fuel filter mounting bracket(I think I had to loosen the bolts that actually hold in the FILTER to that bracket, just to get the pipe to fit back there after my last rebuild.)

 

here's where the coolant pipe that goes to the pass. side, vertically into the center of the intake..... this is where that goes...>>>>

 

looking good, home stretch now. just a little more and

 

Maybe this will help as well? >>>

 

all right, i kind-of have a picture of where those tube bolt:





http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/7cylinder.pdf