rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

Is there any tips for dropping an oil pan from a 1989 4runner 4X4 with an automatic? I have read a little on here, from people saying I will have to drop the Front diff? It has a knock at the bottom of the engine, Im pretty sure it is probally a rod bearing, So I will see If I can replace that with out taking apart the engine. Thanks.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Go slow, pay attention to any binding. You can usually get enough room to slide an oil pan out of a tight spot by lifting the rear of the motor transmission assembly.

Again go slow, and pay attention. You can rip motor mounts or smash up the radiator.

I expect you will have issues pulling the rod, depending where it's located. and that is why people have to drop the frontend.

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

I not going to pull the rod, I just want to replace the bearing. Slap it back together and see if it runs good? But not that im thinking maybe the knock could be the timing guides?

BamaYota1

There are a ton of great write ups with pics on this site. Just do a search, read for an hour or two, and if you still have questions, come back.

It's not too bad a job. I did what you are about to do in order to get a few more miles out of a wore out engine, but found a severely ridged journal. Start to finish for your first time you should be able to do it in a day. Do yourself a favor and source your rod bearings before you start. They come standard, .020, .030 and .040 iirc. Unless you know what is already in there, you need to know where you can get all sizes without waiting 3 days.

Just pull your valve cover and look at your guides if you think that might be the problem. Again, plenty of good write ups on site with pics.

HighLux

Post a video of the noise first.

If its a rod knock. take out the motor and do it right.
Replacing a single bearing with motor in truck is skeet.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Might be helpfull if you mentioned which motor also.

I'm assuming it's a 4 cylinder, you mentioned chain guides.

Chain noises are a much higher frequency sound than rods. Rods, valves, chain from high to low, but then there is the curveball if they're intermitten noises. If it sounds something like a card in a bycle spoke it's maybe already eating the cover, there is also the mode where the guide is bouncing off of the chain which is more of a rattling. It could be the pin knocking

Goodluck, hopeing for you it's #3-4 and easy to get to. And that this motor never winds up in something I buy
(Sub text: I'll 2nd rebuilding the lower end)

Oh don't forget to unbolt the rear mount if you have to lift it, it'll shread the rubber.

Pat8942

New bearing on a worn out journal won't last long enough to be worth your while, but hey it's your time and money.

Buck87

Do us a favor in the future and list what motor, transmission and vehicle you have in your signature, and if you have not searched then post in the Newbie tech section. You will have to lower the front diff to get clearance for the pan to clear the oil pick up tube and crank shaft. No need to remove the Diff just remove the three mount and lower it. Some steering parts will have to come off also. The search function on this site ain't all that great so try a google search. You will be able to find step by step instructions with pictures that way.

Buck87

You might be able to get away with removing the crank shaft and having it polished or reground with all new barrings. I have never been that desperate but it might get you by for a while.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

So much negativity

I did some more digging around

Pictures of where you're gonna be..

Notice it's the tightest at the rear, so lifting from the rear won't be enough. With a manual trans you can lift the whole engine up to the firewall, this doesn't work for the automatics. There are transmission lines run on top of the automatics, they'll get crushed. I didn't look around to see if you can remove those lines simply..

aztoyman

Used to work at a Cat dealership. Rolling in bearings on a high hour engine is pretty common. Done before failure though.

If you do have a rod knock, you're wasting your time and money trying to stick a bearing in it. The crank journal will have damage and will eat your new bearing up.

You will be really disappointed when it lets go again after all that work. Not to mention the expense.

Just my opinion.

Snortin Nortin

ya pull it its not hard whats hard is converting and having patience everything with these old toyotas is procedure !!!! And atuos are easier to put engine -trans together than standards!!!!!



Sorry don't mean to sound rude I use!!!! like ..... so ya not yelling lol!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

This!!!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Just so ya know the "bad word filter" is working just fine you're the only one that got to see the un filtered bits, the rest of us got stars.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

They show up as stars for everyone, myself included.

That doesn't excuse the usage of bad words, regardless of whether the filter picks them up or not. As outlined in the rules everyone agreed to when they signed up.

Thanks

kelvinb

what did you end up doing? i developed a knock in my engine as well and it turned out to be the cap side of every main bearing. the bearings had a line in them and could catch on your finger nail, the crank was smooth and had no damage. i pulled the engine and replaced all the bearings (main/rod) and thats been well over 10k miles ago. if the crank would of had damage i would of replaced it.

rydholm11211

iTrader: (1)

Scrapping the engine and selling it to a rebuild place