Gmanyotapickup

I found inner and outer tie rod ends for $15 and $10. Centerlink is $57. Question is, Does the Centerlink include tie rod ends ? Saw picture with both ends containing rubber bushing piece. Are the tie rod ends screwed on the the center link piece ?

scope103

I going to guess you mean "relay rod." http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ng/15steer.pdf The Tie rods bolt to the relay rod, the rubber-bushing pieces at the end of the relay rod connect to the Pitman and Idler arm. So "no," the relay rod does not include the tie rod ends (or the rest of the tie rod).

Before you go much farther, you might want to call the dealer with your VIN. There was a recall on the relay rod (at least for my vehicle) and you'll want to know if the recall was completed. If not, and your tie rods are bad, you might want to get to that first, or it will be an extra cost item. But Toyota will do the alignment as part of the relay rod replacement.

Gmanyotapickup

Thanks for reply, was useful and will see if recall. I have a 1993 Toyota Pickup 2wd, have 27x8.50 14 tires/ not lifted but tired 2 inches bigger than stock. After leaving tire shop- they did quick job at closing time- noticed my steering wheel turned to left and have to hold to right to go straight. Guessing they hit the ramp hard when taking truck into garage.
They told me go to alignment shop, did, problem not solved, then second trip to alignment shop they say "Centerline rod end " bad. Found out is called "Centerlink" and heard the end joints are actually on the tie rod ends (someone posted on another site)
When driving on highway notice driver side clunking as if driving over sticks- don't know if something broke or fell out. At 70 mph will wobble left to right feels like driving on ice.
Question- could it be the relay rod/ tie rod ends or could it be Idler Arm, Pitman Arm or Control Arm bushings ?

scope103

Isn't the internet great? Instead of just looking it up in the Factory Service Manual, which tells you the end joints are NOT on the tie rod ends, you can find "someone posted on another site" who will tell you Toyota is wrong.

Yes to all five. But I'd start with the tire pressure, then the ball joints. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../8balljoin.pdf

And for God's sake, don't EVER go back to that tire shop or that alignment shop! Something is very ˟˟˟˟ed up in your front suspension, and these are the guys you pay to diagnose it. Not give you patently wrong information.

Gmanyotapickup

Thanks for information, I saw the diagram link and part names. Tire shop workers did rush as closing, I left in rush- getting late for class. On freeway thought I was going to die as truck was loosing control all over. Found out later the shop had tires at 50 PSI !! Went back to show them- they said going off computer. After tires at 33 PSI, freeway handling improved alot yet problem still there. Then went to Alignment shop they gave me coupon for.
Before they started alignment I told them to check all suspension components, rod, joints, etc. Saw them checking then they started the alignment which he shows me on computer was way off. Driving away from shop called back as steering wheel and truck pulling to left still (have to hold to right to go straight) he told me to stop in parking lot then pull a hard quick left turn and should be okay .. LOL. Went back again they checked the suspension and stated rod end is bad - suspected they just made up a reason to not do alignment again.

Gmanyotapickup

The diagram link shows the relay rod, but it is almost identical in shape and size to the Front Inner Tie Rod End- picture I saw on O'reily auto parts website. I will have my own mechanic check to see if any bushings are bad or missing control arm parts- If anything fell out or is destroyed. When I drive on fwy feels like something fell out with noise and bumpy feeling. 3 years ago when I got my second set of ProComp 3000 shocks the ride was super smooth almost like driving a cadillac .. LOL

Gmanyotapickup

Diagram does not show 'Centerlink' but saw on auto parts website, maybe the centerlink is the whole linkage ?

scope103

RockAuto calls the relay rod a centerlink (usually they're pretty good about terminology, but nobody is perfect). Since RockAuto has photographs, it's a pretty good resource.

Gmanyotapickup

Realized that later- that relay rod may also be called centerlink, instead of just linkage they made it center link. When first saw diagram, dotted lines pointed up thought relay rod was the short piece at end or end joint. Hope problem is not ball joints will cost $$$. Been driving for over 2 months with problem, steering is good and accurate, only problems if go over 60-65 mph.

Larz28

I saw a relay rod for my 88 on Autohaus' website in AZ for $47. including the ends. I think I stabbed my drivers side boot with the pickle fork trying to remove it. Then I figured out to put my jack under the ilde/pitman arms to secure the ball joints while I whacked them. Both came right out. Now I'm wondering if I can replace just the damaged end and keep my factory relay rod/centerlink. The dealer wants over $300.00 for a new assembly.

Gmanyotapickup

went to alignment shop and manager was there, showed me my centerlink(relay rod) on my 93 pickup 2wd. There are no tie rod ends on the centerlink, but the centerlink has two ends that contain bushings(can't buy separate). So they told me centerlink bushings are bad. Then went to my mechanic, they spent 15 minutes under my truck moving the tires alot= they said problem is Idler Arm bushing, but should also replace both front shocks and the steering damper shock. Stated the shaking of my truck is from bad tire or shocks. Got my tires rebalanced 3rd time in last few months and now it is smoother.

Gmanyotapickup

correction, called mechanic and said I need Idler Arm and the bushings. bushings only $3-5 but Idler arm is $30-70 depending on brand. May get Raybestos or Moog.

Gmanyotapickup

If u think of a sandwich, the bread on top is Idler Arm on bottom is the Center Link and the meat and cheese is the bushings of both pieces. Bushings are stacked together- saw when looked under the truck.

RSR

Sounds like a trip!

Yes, your description made me think of the idler arm. Your center link may bend or break (breakage the reason for the recall I think) but any damage on that should be apparent with similar damage to either your idler arm or pitman arm depending on side.

I'd recommend a tie rod puller (smaller version of pitman arm puller) over pickle for any day. Pickle fork only works for me if not recently changed when combined with a torch to heat studs.

Tie rod ends are less likely to break.

Shocks and steering damper are easy to do you and you can definitely do them yourself.

Sdori and 4crawler both sell upgraded bushings: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml
http://www.sdori.com/

Plenty of info on all of this if you use the handy search function.

On steering damper: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/stabilizer/
On idler arm: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

And I recommend Raybestos Professional (should be OEM 555 parts) on your idler arm and pitman arm. Old Man Emu steering damper -- direct fit. And Deeza tie rod ends.

Gmanyotapickup

Called Toyota Dealer- so only the V6 models apparently had recall on the relay rod/centerlink. Mechanic said no damage to Centerlink only Idler Arm, alignment shop said only Centerlink ends are worn out. Mechanic said he will do everything for $100 (labor only) and I bring the Idler Arm, Steering damper, front shocks. I know the rear shocks are super easy- but if he does for free will let him do it. I don't want to change front shocks- as have no garage space and I remember doing them with dad 8 years ago= need to press down hard. Rear= did once was just two bolts, no compressing or hard work.

Gmanyotapickup

I may get the centerlink changed as don't want to go back a week later for that or later on and pay again for labor, etc. Maybe he will do for extra $20 ....

Gmanyotapickup

No need to replace tie rod ends and found out they are NOT on the centerlink. Centerlink is one piece of steel that has endjoints which are like rubber bushing with bolt or sharp point sticking out. The steel/metal did not break just the rubber ends get bad. Moog states their ends can spread out grease etc

Gmanyotapickup

Rock Auto website shows good prices on Moog, but shipping is $9 for each item. $9 for centerlink and if want to add $3 bushings shipping price goes up to $18 ! Will probably buy the Moog steering damper for $32 as it comes with boot cover and is 'trail master' lol

RSR

Front shocks are super easy to do on 4x4 V6. Mines a 93. You don't need any garage space. I did mine with tires on and truck on the ground. Removal is straight forward. Undo top and remove bottom bolt. Use a screwdriver or something under bottom of shock to hold the shock level while you remove the bolt. Installation is reverse. Install top, use screwdriver or small pry bar to raise the shock to level with with bracket holes -- Possibly use a screwdriver in bracket to shock to ensure you don't completely lose the alignment while installing bolt, and then torque that bottom bolt down. Put on top shock bushings and then install lock nut until bushings are appropriately squished.

Don't forget to check Amazon too -- I found that their prices beat rocks about 1/2 the time and about another 20% of the time Amazon is still cheaper when factoring in free shipping (and if you pay $80 annually for Amazon prime it's free two day shipping). Unlike Rock, Amazon does charge sales tax in multiple states.

Gmanyotapickup

Thanks for tips. I have 2wd pickup with 27 inch tires. May try to do front myself as well- remember having to push the shock- will try the prying method with screwdriver or some tool. Will go to mechanic to change my rear engine seal and centerlink/ Idler Arm. Steering damper shock looks super easy as well.