ToyYoda

Mine sticks, only about 1300RPM every now and then and if I tap the gas pedal or push the throttle shut it goes back to normal idle, it seems to be sticking. I've tryed cleaning it and lubricating it with liquid wrench and just doesn't seem to go away. I also have removed the coolant lines going to the T/B, would that cause it to stick like it is? Where's a good place to buy 22RE parts?

Injected1

I assume you've taken it off to clean it, so is it the throttle blade itself sticking or the throttle position sensor? The coolant lines supply coolant to the cold idle air valve. When cool the valve is open, as the coolant temp increases it heats this valve and it gradually closes with increasing coolant temps. If you removed the lines you may want to get some mouley tape and tape off the BOTTOM hole on the airbox side in front of the throttle blade. You will then have to set the idle to where you want it. It will stay at that point when warm or cold. Put it back on and see if it still sticks. As far as the sticking idle goes just open the throttle by hand over and over again with the throttle body off and see if you can get the throttle blade to stick. If you CAN'T get it to, take the throttle position sensor off (right side I believe) and work it back and forth to make sure it's not hanging.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Also check the dashpot:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot

I just recently put a heavier throttle return spring on mine and it seems to be helping so far. The early 22REs have a real Rube Goldberg throttle linkage and I think that is what is hanging up on mine. THe heavier spring pulls the throttle closed much better.

farmerj

I am having the same issues with mine.

Tried cleaning, new TPS, springs, checking linkage, everything short of replacing the throttle body.

Anyone got any other suggestions. Next up is a different throttle body.

Crymson

I don't have a digital camera handy, but I'll try and explain how I fixed my sticking throttle body.

I attached a spring to the throttle rotor and attached the other end to the throttle cable bracket. You'll need to drill a small hole in the throttle cable bracket to hook the end of the spring to it. The spring provides additional force to keep the throttle valve closed. Two downsides: this is only a "band-aid" for the true problem, and there is an increase in pressure required to depress the gas pedal.

BTW this was done on a 3VZE, but you get the basic idea, incorporate a spring to provide additional tension on your throttle rotor to keep the damned thing closed. As for longevity it has been several years with no discenerable problems.

farmerj

How does the pedal feel? Heavy? Hard?

Crymson

Since more force must be exerted to depress the pedal I suppose you can describe it as either being "hard", "stiff", or "heavy". If you mean "hard" as in stainless steel brake line "hard", then thats not it, as that only applies to one direction, depression. The additional force provided by the spring will constantly push against your foot, requiring more effort to depress and hold the pedal while cruising, effectively making the pedal "heavy" or "stiff".

farmerj

Well I finally went out and found a good used throttle body off an '88 4Runner with a manual transmission.

Problem is solved.

Throttle is great. Idles back to 750 rpm every time now and runs great.

When I had the two TB's on the bench, you could see a considerable amount of play in the old one.