DIY Paint on the 4Runner.... it begins
12-31-2011, 01:07 PM
#141
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style
after the base coat was done. spent a warm day adding some style points to make it go just a little faster. Here's what we ended up with....
12-31-2011, 01:15 PM
#142
Registered User
Thread Starter
All is Well
Ok so that was back in Nov. It's now over a year later and not a hint of rust anywhere on the truck. No leaks or crazy air noise. Good as ever......
(and some time REAL soon I'll get to doing the strips on the passenger side too)
bonus: pic from the trip....
(and some time REAL soon I'll get to doing the strips on the passenger side too)
bonus: pic from the trip....
02-01-2012, 08:32 PM
#143
For anybody else painting, duplicolor is a waste of time. Nice truck! Working on the same windshield problem right now
Last edited by fullwidthyotaon40s; 02-01-2012 at 08:33 PM.
01-04-2016, 10:35 PM
#144
Prepping Pinchweld for Windshield Install
Ok, here's the skinney from both companies: POR and Sika.
POR: POR-15 is unlike regular paint and is better described as a primer.... once properly preped with both Marine Clean and Metal Prep the POR will bond to bare metal better then any etch primer. Therefore questions on it's bond to metal not a problem like with a typical topcoat paint...... Also, it made to be scuffed and etch primed once applied before topcoated. So questions on primer bonding to the POR-15 surface is not a problem. FURTHER MORE, POR is a polyurethane product therefore should be compatible with other urethanes.
Sika (maker of the eurethane): the eurethane is made to be applied to the pinchweld that has been etch primed then "degreased" with their "Aktivator PRO" then covered with a thin coat of their prep primer.
So if you want to put eurethane directly onto POR-15 it should work...
POR: POR-15 is unlike regular paint and is better described as a primer.... once properly preped with both Marine Clean and Metal Prep the POR will bond to bare metal better then any etch primer. Therefore questions on it's bond to metal not a problem like with a typical topcoat paint...... Also, it made to be scuffed and etch primed once applied before topcoated. So questions on primer bonding to the POR-15 surface is not a problem. FURTHER MORE, POR is a polyurethane product therefore should be compatible with other urethanes.
Sika (maker of the eurethane): the eurethane is made to be applied to the pinchweld that has been etch primed then "degreased" with their "Aktivator PRO" then covered with a thin coat of their prep primer.
So if you want to put eurethane directly onto POR-15 it should work...
I would like to make sure the pinchweld is properly prepped to ensure adhesion of windshield adhesive (urethane) to pinchweld finish, to metal is good.
I found two sites online (here and here) that suggest NOT to use topcoat on primed pinchweld, and it makes sense because the more layers there are, the more likely one layer is going to detach from one below it.
I have a few spots with surface rust (no holes/penetration through the pinchweld), so earlier I used Permatex rust converter. Maybe that is not a good product for prepping the pinchweld? So I'm considering using POR-15.
Helidriver, I gather from this thread that you applied POR-15, then self-etch primer to pinchweld before getting windshield installed.
How is it going so far? No leaks? no rust?
If the makers of POR-15 claim it is polyurethane and should be compatible with the urethane adhesive used for windshields, would it not be better to simply repair rust spots with POR-15 and skip the self-etch primer coat? This would mean:
(1) One less layer interface to fail, and
(2) Less work and cost
I plan to ask Safelite for its recommended prep process and materials, AND I
would also appreciate your inputs.
TIA
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