My first yota from 98.... my wife and i had alot of fun in that truck.... then the damn son came along and had to let here go..... you don't have any idea how many different ideas went through my head on how to get a car seat in the xtra cab...>!!!!!

 

Hey man I'm in Havelock also. Give me a pm and well meet up. Just to let u know Camp Lejeune has an asume Auto Body Hobby shop. You can rent their both, and they have all the tools needed. Don't scrimp on the paint. Go a head out to car quest and they will mix up some of the PPG shop line. Your looking at about $300.00 for everything you will need. I hope to be working on my paint by September. My engine should done soon. When I pull the old one I am going to repaint the engine bay then body. Later

 

Here is a link on how some of us have painted our trucks.https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rshell-213103/

 

Yeah, a guy at the hobby shop here has been a big help and he has a bunch of paint booth experience in his garage he volunteered to help me. better then renting. plus the lejeune booth makes you use sherman williams only and it's pretty expensive from what i hear.....

 

Although I am NooB, I thought I would just say. I have never painted a car, nor done any sort of body work. My paint was similarly described as yours. It really is easy, took me two days in my garage after prep and body work. I was pleasantly surprised how mine came out. Got 99% of everything I needed to know around here. Take the time and have fun I bet yours will turn out great. good luck! Can't wait to see the results :-)

 

We actually discussed some things on your thread a month ago or so..... Big help... This guy has the whole spray set up so I'm just looking for paint... Think I'm in for the Duplicolor at AutoZone cause it's cheap and it says no mixing required.... Only about $22 bucks a quart.

 

Did you spray or roll? What kind of paint did you use?

 

I sprayed, bought a cheap ($60) HVLP from Home cheapo. I used GCI OD green with there red zinc oxide primer. I'm using my rig for hunting and camping.

Before


After


PS I had N. Carolina too :-)

 

Spent another 2hrs on the sanding prep tonight... the razor blade was a REALLY bad idea. didn't realize how many knicks i put in it taking off the decals.... didn't seem bad before but now it's time for sanding smooth and it's taking forever. course it dosn't help all i got is 220 wood sand paper.... wears out quick! going to get some 180 for the bad spots and a wheel for the drill. the hand sanding is killin me.

 

I like this one, just less intense..

 

same with me, it's more the type i'm thinking but not exactly it.... I like the idea of the design but i need to change 'something' ???...

 

Just came up with this one all blacked out on white....???? Maaaaayyyybbbeeee

 

get a electric D.A sander from dewalt.

 

I like black 4runners. Check my avatar. It's almost 11 years old. Black would be a great transition from the silver you now have. My 1st gen was "medium blue metallic." I think that is the prettiest 4runner color ever! There weren't many around even when it was new. My first baby boy forced a change to a four door 4runner. He rode home in a new 1997 4runner. Now he's almost old enough to drive and he has his eye on the 2000 4runner. He was saying yesterday that it would look great with blue flames on it (!) I am not a fan of the stripes or the 80's graphics that were on them. Did you check the links to the car paints? I'm not sure if you are going for a professional as possible look or a satin finish. The boat paint is great if you can only roll and if you are on a serious budget. I have painted a boat and it is stunning but you can't buff it or wax it ! (Awlgrip.) And it was not cheap by the time I bought reducers, converters etc. Since you have access to a spray booth I would use auto paint. Maybe you should ask the tech at the Camp body shop what he thinks. Some other guys there have probably used it. Every thread I've seen about painting leads me to believe that by the time you finish all the body work and sanding you are not going to want to skimp too much on the paint product.

 

ive seen a 1st gen with that style of paint scheme, im on the work computer atm ill post it up when i get home

 

Yep, definately on a budget.... really looking at the Duplicolor. Says that it doesn't require mixing so one cost and done I guess. Don't have to buy all the reducer/thinners.... My "mentor" said it should only take 2 or so quarts of sealer, paint, and 2 of clear. His paint hookup at a paint store quoted about $270 paint, sealer, clear coat and whatever thinners, hardeners, spirits, ect..... Going to see what he thinks about the Duplicolor idea.... He said the paint he was getting was pretty good. But I want to keep it cheap.

Quality rust protection first, then best looks for lowest cost.... Seams that the Duplicolor at $22 a quart would only be around $110 for sealer, paint, and clear....

 

Duplicate color paint shop is not really any cheaper than a good acrylic base clear. And the laquer will not hold up as long. Especially if you don't store your rig in a garage. You can't laquer over enamel, so you are going to have prime and seal the whole truck with laquer primer sealer, then color, then clear. And you will need about a gallon of each. Do the math at $25 a quart, you are at the same cost as acrylic enamel. You are doing a great job though keep it up.

 

yeah that would b the smart thing but trying to send the wife and kids to cali, both trucks are up for re-registration, i got a military school i have to attend on my dime for the next month and a half 50miles one way from home..... I'm trying to keep the whole project cost down....

I got a adhesive wheel and 180 grit paper for the drill, that should make the bad parts alot faster. the hand sanding the majority of it's pretty easy just the seam lines and the parts i jacked with the damn razor (stupid stupid....) take the time...

 

whats the difference between acrylic, laquer, and enamel?? He said we'll seal the sanded and spot etched original paint. Then color. Then clear. No primer unless you count the "sealer". Never seen this stuff in action so I'm thinking "sealer" looks alot like and is applied similar to regular primer...?

 

yeah man i hated takin off the stripes, i got a pu. If u have to do it again always rub one side of the blade a few tmes on glass, like ur scratchin somthin off and put that side next to the paint and u will dig in about 99% less times.

Also like the other said PPG is about the best way to for auto paint. I used on mine and many others.