Gotcha- Thanks. So even when you set it manually if you're not jumping the terminals in the diagnostic box the comp changes what you did huh? thats wild.


I reset the time to 10*- desertcox- you're right it gave me more power. Still running like but a little better. Am going to try to reset timing while terminals are jumped now

 

I don't even have a "T1".....TE1, TE2, Tt, Tc, Te..no T1....I'm calling it a night... going to drink till I cant feel feelings

 

You might want to check that all your hoses you removed from the valve cover are back on the correct place It can be easy to get them on wrong or forget one .

Even with only 4 wires you can some times get a wire on wrong also.

 

TE1 and E1 terminals are what you should jumper.
Anyhow, g'night.

 

Was looking for T1 and Te1...

anyway just did it. Theres a bunch of stuff in the diagnostic terminals- looks like white lithium greese. Not sure why PO would try to lube the diagnostic port...

Jumped terminals, checked timing, set timing, nothing changed...assuming that timing is fine, it was 20+ degrees advanced before all of this so I'm really thinking that it is not related to timing procedure and my method was fine.

 

fule filter injectors , vac leaks...
so it as running bad thats why you did all this work correct??

 

The grease in the plug is to help keep the terminals from corroding. It's factory installed.
So, you jumped the terminals with the engine running, the idle speed dropped and the timing marks went from 20 to 10, correct?

 

lol- was running fine, just had (spark?) knock around 2k rpm. After pulling valve cover I'm thinking noise was chain slap cause the pass side guide is gone and there's slack. Or could just be valve chatter, they were a little out of spec. Wanted to get it running again before I F-ed with valves.

As for jumping terminals- RPMs didn't drop. Assuming it didn't work. Was using galvanized nail bent, probably not a good conductor. Going to reevaluate in the morning.

 

so....despite the thread title this has turned into timing question.... I now understand the concept of Base Timing and subsequent advance. Sorry for my ignorance!

I was unable to jump the terminals and set engine into 'base' mode. I acheived ballpark timing by eye-balling 20+ degrees advance which has the engine running better than it was before I started.

But I'm concerned with my inability to jump terminals. Engine didn't idle down or anything. Also, when #1 wire was disconnected it wasn't throwing any codes (I would assume it should if its firing on 3 cylinders). Could there be a problem with the TPS??

 

I don't think our puters are that advanced to tell us we have a missfire on a particular cylinder.. the newer OBD2 puters can.
I use a paper clip to jumper the terminals.

 

that is what I used. Messed with it for 20 or so minutes and wouldn't idle down. Is there anything quick to do that should run a code so I can check? Like if I unplug an o2 sensor that should throw one, right?

 

If you have it jumpered correctly, the check engine light will flash.

 

im glad i gots a carb, except for the fact it runs like poo and i cant adjust the carb

 

right- And its not. the concept of sticking a paperclip and bridging two terminals is easy, but its not happening and thats why I'm wondering if something is wrong with the TPS (or ecu or electrical powers that be)

 

if the diagnostics aren't working, why would you think the tps is the reason for that?

yes if you unplug the o2 it should throw a code! might have to give it some throttle after unplugging to trip the cel.

are you sure your crossing the correct terminals?

 

got jumper to work. Ck engine light blinking. Good.- guess I didn't have it in far enough before. being too gentle.

BUT- checked timing and its at the same spot as when jumper is not in- ie. 20*+/- advanced.

At anyrate, I set it to 5*, and it ran like poo, just like when I set it to 5* when jumper was not in. See pics for terminals and timing marks (hard to see).

So I set it back to 20 or so degrees advance. It runs fine like that- helluva lot better than when set at 5* (with or without jumper in). It idles rough now (dieseling or hunting or whatever people call it- backfiring a little bit but runs fine when not idling.)

Why wouldn't timing marks 'change' with jumper in? Light is flashing so its in there correct, right?

 

Timing marks not changing would be due to the TPS not adjusted properly or otherwise malfunctioning, or the throttle not fully closed.

If you put the jumper in, then turn the key to "on", and don't start the truck, the CEL should flash codes. If it flashes 4 times, short pause, 1 time, long pause, that would be "41"... etc. Once it reaches the end of the stored codes, it starts over from the beginning.

 

I have the same problem, I cannot get the engine to idle down with the jumper installed. I taced it down to a bad Vcc wire from the ECU to the TPS. That took a long time to find, still havent gotten around to pulling the intake and splicing the harness...