Mac....good know that your still working on the 4runner......BUT FAMILY COMES FIRST....in my book

Now you may find this web site interesting....it is a Toyota Tech Info site you have to subscribe to get info(pay for it)....I have done it and did down load as much info I possibly could in 24 her for $10.00....the subscriptions are based for a certain time period example...1 day, 1 week,1 month and so on.....check it on.....it may help you now and in the future....and we can thank a yotatech member for the link...it's user friendly...https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F
if it doesnt work let me know
Dwayne

 

Thanks Buckz very much appreciated, and I totally agree, FAMILY FIRST.
My code 14 cleared!!! I think I have multipul isssues, one to the next issue, same symtoms, wont run. I have ordered a new Fuel injector, but agree with sb5, one injector would not keep the truck from running. I also figured out my grounding issue, I found the original location of the ground I question earlier. I was thinking again based on an earlier post that if my ground was noisy, the pulses required for ignition and injector timing could get hosed, that is my hope. I should get the injector and then back together with it, and try again.
Thanks everyone
Mark

 

UPdate, no codes, and begining to think Vacuum issue, or ECM trouble. My code 14 clear, I had a code 41 until I realised that I left my throd sensor unpluged. I contine to look, and hate to think vacuum, but that or fuel presure remain.

 

Dang! Not the ignitor. but the place i got the part from will let trade it back in for credit. Im gonna try the air-flow sensor now.

 

I replaced the air-flow sensor. Still not working.

I found a small crack in the intake tubing and fixed it with "goo" and tape. So now no leaks, but it still wont stay running for more than 6 secs.

I got a code though, IAT & VAF. Even after resetting by unhooking the NEG Batt. term.

What else could be leaking?

 

Double check your VAFM plug for good connection on all pins. Running for a few seconds is indicative of VAFM unplugged.

 

have you checked your fuel pressure?....battery voltage.....just my 2cents

 

I got fuel to all plugs (I cranked it with out letting it fire, then pulled the plugs. They all were wet), plus I can smell it.

It seems as tho it IS somewhere in the connections or wiring.
Is there a way to test the connection to the VMAF? With a multi-meter?

 

Yes. Use back-probe adapters on your multimeter test leads to read dc volts between E2 (neg lead) and Vs (pos lead) on the terminals of the ecu when ignition is on. If you don't have back-probe adapters, push sewing needles into the connector and press the leads against those.

See No. 3 on page EG1–124 for the correct voltages:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf

You can also test Vc & THA. If you don't get a voltage on Vs, it's either a bad vafm or a bad connection to it.

But if its running for 6 seconds, sounds like a bad fuel pump switch. Did you check the vafm per fsm spec, especially the fp switch (FC-E1)?

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf

 

Update, after a long, long road, I have a running 4Runner, idles 800 very nice, troddle responce is good, through trouble shooting, I am finding that the truck will only run as long as this diag jumper in in place to force the pump to run all the time. As soon as I remove the clip the engine sudders and dies. What mechinism shut off the fuel pump? EFI relay?
Thanks all, this has been a very very good thread

 

The pump is powered by the Circuit Opening Relay, which is above the ecu. That relay is triggered by two things: the ST terminal of the ignition switch while cranking the motor, then the fuel pump switch in the air flow meter (vafm) takes over. When the COR is triggered, it passes power from the EFI relay to the fuel pump.

Your EFI relay is okay, because that's what supplies power to the B+ terminal you are using to jump your pump.

So it's either a bad COR, a bad fuel pump switch in the air meter, or a bad connection somewhere.

There's a diagram of the fuel pump power circuit in the fuel pump section:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...87fuelpump.pdf

And diagnostic info for the COR itself here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...96circuito.pdf

I think the easiest place to start would be to check the fuel pump switch in the VAFM first. You're looking for continuity between FC and E1 when the vane is open, and no continuity when it is closed:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf

If that checks out, it sounds like you'll have to check the COR.

 

Excellent thanks, I was searching the Posts and almost and got the info about the AFM, didnt have the detail you provided Sb5, many thanks, I will test and let you know.

 

I have verified that I have no continuity with the measuring plate open, or closed. There appears to be a open between FC and E1, E2 and VS give me varing resistance based on how open the mesuring plate is.

Million dollar question, how much for a VAFM ?? chu-ching

 

mac9968...I know that you can get the VAFM on ebay for about $80.00 with some sort of warranty but some are buy as is..I would look for ones that have been tested you may have better luck with them..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...=p4506.c0.m245

 

... or open the top of the VAFM, and check that the contacts are working properly, then seal the top of the VAFM.

 

Good one Abe...x2

 

one little thing that bothers me is that one should not have to open the VAFM and fix the contacts.... that's not to say that maybe the solder pads on the circuit board don't go bad but these things usually last a long time.
But if that's all it takes, open the cap, clean the contacts, and voila! it's fixed... then ...

 

x3 on attempting to repair; you've got nothing to lose. If you get it working, be sure to seal the cap back on there as Abe said.

If you can't get it fixed, check ebay, craigs, and car-part.com for a used air meter. Be sure it has the same part #.

 

Fellows, Buckz, Abe many, may thanks. I took the sealer off the VAFM, and looked closely at the contacts, for positions FC and E1 in the VAFM connector there is a simple mechanical "reed" type relay that simply was out of place. The contacter between the to reeds was not making contact. I have rebent the leads, and re-soldered the contactor and as you said Abe "Voila" she is working without straping the fuel pump. Thanks a million

 

sb5 thanks, many thanks for the input