Follow up, continitiy confirmed from Igniter to ECM. I have located a used Igniter from a 93 4runner, v6 that I can lay my hands on tommrow. I am going to give replacing the igniter a try, will continue to post my progress.

 

Mac have you been able to keep your engine to stay running?.good to here that you got spark like I have....are you getting fuel to the plugs?

...but like you I can't tell why the signal the signal is not going back to the ECM..

If I under stand Abe correctly.... somewhere after the injectors fire, the igniter doesn't send the signal back to the ECM that the spark plug fired ...even though they have because the engine still runs(in my case and I can drive)

 

My first guess would be a faulty distributor. They DO wear out after a few hundred thousand miles...

 

thanks TNRabbit...for the input...and I think you have mentioned the distributor before in some of my other threads....

you mentioned that the distributor wears out over time and I can under stand that.....my question is "What other parts wear out besides the pick up coils, cap, rotor ect?...so I can do further testing on it....

thanks
Dwayne

 

Abe.....I have checked the following that you mentioned...... I'd look at all the connections to the coil, igniter AND ECU checking for any moisture, corrosion or even terminals that have backed out of the plug slightly. Check the coil for good connections and NO GREASE ANYWHERE!!!!

all are good thus far...

 

I had code 14 on my 88 awhile ago and it turned out to be my igniter. Just got on www.car-parts.com and ordered one from another 4Runner. make sure you get one from your respective year.

Got my new (to me) igniter and it has worked ever since.

 

Buckz, yes sir, getting fuel.. this is interesting for sure. My truck starts very good, runs about 10 to 15 seconds, and then stops. When you start your rig, you know how istidles high briefly, and settles, it is like when the truck returns to normal from start, the engine dies. I believe this to be the work of the ECM, as it is just like I shut off the key, fire, fuel, it all stops. Still only seeing the single code of "14"

 

once the ECU sees that the engine is not receiving a signal from the igniter for 6 consecutive cycles it shuts everything down, this would include your fuel.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-14-a-130369/

 

881stGenRunner
thanks for the input on the igniter ...and the parts link....I have used their services before and was pleased...

 

Mac... what about fuel pressure, fuel pump??

 

The ECU would not shut down anything... if the igniter suddenly started sending IGF signals to the ECU. I mean that you could have 2 seconds or more of no "IGF" and then if everything started working the ECU would continue as if nothing else was wrong, but would store the code.

I'm going out on a limb here and saying your igniter is going out. If all the wiring is fine and it starts then dies after a some seconds and all you get is a code 14... the logical "first point of failure" is the igniter. It is the only thing between the distributor and ECU other than the wires (which you've checked). Hit up the local wrecking yard and see if you can work out some 'test' thing where you maybe pay for the part and if it doesn't solve the problem you get a credit towards something else.

 

Not true. Even if the ECU didn't receive IGF signals for 12 events, if the engine was spinning fast enough and the ECU started receiving the signal before the engine dies, the engine would keep running. Keep in mind that not receiving a signal for 6 events means only 2-3 revolutions for the crankshaft and the crank is rotating 1-3 times per second at idle.

A poor engine gound may even be a culprit here.

 

*duplicate post*

Sorry.

 

Abe...thank for the input and you explain things well...so sense my engine starts and is drivable.....my igniter still could not be working properly thus could be causing my misfire?...I only pull the codes during the diagnostic testing, I have yet to get a CEL why driving unless I unhook something electrical.I have reset the CEL by pulling the EFI fuse but the codes keep coming back in the diagnostic test only

 

Buckz, I do have fuel, as I had to fix a leak in the driverside fuel rail as a result of mis fitting a fuel union. I have verifiy positive presure in each rail, and fuel returning in the fuel return to the tank. We are getting closer to running, runners... I am thinking.. is that redundant?

 

Mac...good to know that you have fuel... that is a vary important part of combustion ......my runner is drivable...but I have a nasty vibration I'm trying to get rid of, It's been hanging around for over a year(I have taken it to 7 shops to have the techs diagnosis the vibration with no luck with a answer yet).I can't understand why I've had no luck with any of them, it's a vary noticeable vibration when idling and driving it shakes the whole runner
sorry I need to stay on topic here

I have to figure out if it's a combustion issue(igniter, coil, distributor or some kinda transmission issue)

please keep posting your progress
Dwayne

 

Crap! I can't get my CEL to come back.
1: I have spark to the distributor.
2istributor tests to proper Ohm specs.
3:But my clutch cancel button still acts funny. Sometimes it lets the motor CRANK with out it being pushed (or the clutch being pushed).... But the motor won't FIRE.
BUT when the Button works (Won't let the motor CRANK). I push in the button OR the clutch..and bang, it FIRES right up for 6-7 secods, then dies.

Im gonna start lookin at the button and wiring. Any helpful hints?

 

Well if it were me..... and if the clutch cancel button still acts funny. I would just unhook it and clamp the 2 leads together with alligator clips....and see if the engine will start and stay running(provided the cancel button is the same as what I call a neutral safety switch?)

The CEL light does it come on when you turn on the ignition?.....if it does then at least the bulb is working

 

Yep, we are talking about the same button. Yep, the CEL light comes on with the key.
Goin out to do some work on it now. THANKS

 

It only takes one instance of misfiring to throw the code.
Make sure that all the terminals (in particular the wire carrying the IGF signal) are clean, dry and not loose in the plugs, maybe even separate the terminal from the plug and give it a slight crimp so it grabs the mating terminal in the opposite plug a little better. A little vibration is enough to maybe break the connection just long enough to through a code. Also check for the IGF wire itself grounding out somewhere. If none of that helps, locating an igniter you can borrow and test with might be necessary.