justgregit

Hi everyone,

Long time browsing, first time posting (because usually I can find what I'm looking for here with enough searching). Anyway, I have an '87 4runner, with a 3" lift I had bought used (so I don't know exactly how things have been modified other than putting the kit on).

I'm in the process of moving and was going to rent a U-Haul Trailer, and so ordered a Curt Hitch (11813) from U-Haul. Attaching seems straightforward, except for the fact that on the drivers side I can't attach the side plate because the exhaust pipe runs right through where it should be. I can push it around enough to get it below the hitch, but I'm afraid that long term this could damage the exhaust pipe, since the exhaust is being held down by the sidearm. Additionally, I can't drill out one of the holes needed to attach the side arm to the frame rail because the exhaust is in the way.

Has anyone installed one of these and have any advice? I'm not sure if this is a byproduct of the lift kit (not sure if this has any impact on the location of the exhaust pipe, though based on the bent hanger used to attach it to the frame I'm guessing that it probably does). The vehicle definitely has a body lift, but I'm not sure if any modifications were done to the leaf springs, though they look higher than my previous stock 4runner.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Have a new exhaust pipe made that moves the pipe out of the way seems the easy way.

I would say heat and bend but it would no doubt just kink and crush. Can you lower the pipe down at of the way at all

Hard to really tell with out some pictures.

I hope your not planning on to big of a trailer!!

justgregit

Thanks wyoming9. I had been considering a new exhaust, but would prefer a less pricey solution. I think if I can find longer hangers for the exhaust pipe behind the muffler I might be able to get it low enough so that it clears the side arms, or perhaps going the opposite route and pulling everything closer to the frame I can get the exhaust over them (this may be the way it was originally intended, I think the suspension lift may have moved the exhaust down relative to the frame).

When I have some time I'll head out with a camera and take some pictures to try and shed some better light.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might try rerouting the tail pipe after the muffler. Here is what I did on mine to clear a 33" spare tire:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TailPipe.shtml



Actually, with a 3" body lift, you can re-routed the tail pipe between the body and frame in back and that is the way I have mine run now.

justgregit

Thanks 4Crawler! Sorry it took me so long to respond, been busy, but I appreciate the reply. This looks pretty straightforward so I'll give it a go once I have enough free time on the weekend and let you know how it works out! Seems pretty straightforward, the only thing I'm not looking forward to is freeing the old exhaust. Hopefully a few cans of PB Blaster will be enough to get her loose.

My only concern, will this have any effect on my vehicle being emissions friendly? I'm guessing since it looks like you live in CA it must work out alright...

Also, thanks for all the good stuff at 4crawler... you're site has helped me through a number of other projects!

EDIT: Just looked closer at your post and you just cut the tailpipe behind the muffler. Think I'll do the same rather than trying to get what looks to be about 25 years of rust holding the tailpipe to the muffler...

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

At least in CA< they could care less what is stuck on behind the cat. Only issue you might see is in states that do intensive safety inspections, they may or may not like the flex pipe. I've used this same stainless steel pipe for about 20 years now and it is still solid and leak free. If you notice the back of the muffler in the picture above, I recall I just sawed mine off at a convenient location to give me the right bend. Later I ditched the stock muffler and re-used the same flex pipe behind a Flowmaster and now Borla muffler. I also changed out the u-bolt clamps for some Dynomax stainless steel band clamps:

justgregit

Fortunately no safety inspection in Colorado, just emissions, but I'll be careful to make sure theres a good seal so nobody in the back is huffing exhaust fumes. Anyway, putting together the order from J/C Whitney now so I'll let you know when I get it all in. I think eventually the cat and muffler should be replaced, but that will have to wait. Also, just to let you know, the JC Whitney links on your website are no longer working. Anyway thanks for the help!

justgregit

Hey sorry, one last quick question. Looks like JCWhitney doesn't sell the 2" ID tubing anymore. Is it better to step up to 2 1/4" or down to 1 7/8". This is the first time I've worked on the exhaust and am not totally familiar with how this will all fit together...

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Fixed the links. That's what I get for putting direct item links as JCW changes those things every year or so.

On the size, you just need to get whatever size adapters to fit the sizes of pipes. Basically ID + 1/8" = OD, so 1-7/8" ID = 2" OD, since exhaust pipe wall thickness is 1/16" and 2 x 1/16" = 1/8". So take whatever size OD pipe is coming out of the muffler and whatever size flex tubing you can get and then find adapters to match the two and go from there. Been about 15 years since I had any stock size exhaust tubing, but I think it may be around 1=7/8" OD. Measure yours and see. If you lack calipers to measure, just wrap tube in tape, slice the tape and remove it and measure the length of tape and divide by 3.14 (pi) to get the diameter.

justgregit

Perfect! Was just outside looking underneath the truck to figure things out and came up with the same idea to use circumference (no calipers). Looks like OD depends on where I make the cut anyway. Thanks for all of the help!