I spoke with them on the phone before I sent it to see what they could do. They said they could rewind it for 130 amps max with @ 72 amps available at idle. That beats the crap out of the original output. I said that sounds good & sent it to them. That's it.

 

FYI: I pulled this detailed description of alternators & how they work off the web:

Here is a good explanation of how an alternator works:

Alternator Construction and Operation
An alternator or A.C. generator creates voltage by rotating a magnetic field inside a looped conductor.
Alternator Components:

Rotor
A multi-pole electromagnet that is rotated by a belt & pulley.
Usually 4 to 7 pole pairs.
Rotor Components
Winding & Slip Rings
Magnetic Pole Pieces
Shaft With Iron Core

Stator
A circular laminated iron frame that holds the looped conductor.
An automotive alternator stator usually has three separate looped conductors.
Each conductor has as many loops as the rotor has pole pairs.
The current output is 3-phase (3 over-lapping A.C. currents).

Stator Winding Types
Wye (Y) - 3 looped conductors connected in series. Higher voltage output at low speeds.
Delta - 3 looped conductors connected in parallel. Higher current output at low speeds.

Rectifier Bridge
A set of 6 or more diodes used to rectify the A.C. current in the stator into D.C. current before it leaves the alternator.
The diodes are mounted in a heat sink.
The Charging System consists of two circuits: Output and Field

-Output Circuit:
The output circuit consists of the stator windings, rectifier bridge, battery and all electrical loads.
The stator produces current in two conductors during the same time period.
As the rotor rotates, the stator windings that produces current change every 120 degrees. This produces 3-phase output.
As the magnetic poles alternate past the loops they produce A.C. voltage.
The rectifier bridge consists of positive diodes connected to (B+) and negative diodes connected to (B-) in pairs.
The stator output goes into the bridge as A.C. and leaves as D.C.

-Field Circuit:
The field circuit may consist of the rotor winding, slip rings & brushes, voltage regulator, indicator bulb and wiring.
The field circuit controls the current flow through the rotor winding.
This current is called the “excitation” current.
Excitation current is provided by the battery before the stator begins producing current.
The stator provides excitation current after the alternator starts producing current.

Voltage Regulator
The voltage regulator is part of the field circuit.
It limits alternator output voltage by controlling the strength of the rotor field.
The regulator senses battery voltage and controls system voltage to a safe level by pulsing the rotor current.
Long pulses result in a stronger field and higher voltage output and vice versa.
Maximum alternator current output is limited by stator CEMF.
Output voltage will exceed 16V if not regulated.

Field Circuit Types:
-“A”
The regulator supplies the ground for the field circuit. The other side of the field is connected directly to battery B(+).
Both brushes are insulated.
“A” for after rotor!
-“B”
The regulator supplies B(+) for the field circuit.
One brush is insulated, the other is grounded.
“B” for before rotor!

-Isolated
The ignition switch supplies B(+) to the field.
The regulator supplies the ground. Both brushes are insulated.
_________________________________
Alternator Output

Measure current output at the alternator B(+) wire while loaded to 12V at 2000rpm.
Should be within 10% of rated output.
Example: Alternator rating; 120 amps Tested output should be 0.9 x 120 amps = 108 amps minimum

 

I got some new toys today:

 

Oooo...tools! It's a love affair.

What's the little dealy-bop at the top? A scale of some sort?

 

Similar to Katie's:



It's a dial indicator gauge to check throwout, etc. (but, it pains me to say....her's is bigger)

 

Things are really moving along. You are definitely on a roll. Keep up with the great post.
pete

 

It's all in how it's used....ha!

The detail you've gone through is quite impressive to me. It's definitely beyond my scope. I suppose it looks harder than it really is, though.

 

BTW, your having your alternator beefed up like that is an attractive idea. I'm not running any heavy duty electronics like you, but would it be a good thing to do? I mean, I've notice when my engine lugs a little, if I'm not attentive enough to my clutching, that the headlamps dim. I'm wondering if I'm not getting enough charging to my system. I'm using a Denso alt. from O'Reilly and a good sized battery with 850 CC amps.....both less than a year old.

 

if you drop below the idle RPM your lights are going to dim no matter what. I'd venture a guess you have contact issues somewhere. Check all your engine to chassis & battery to chassis grounds FIRST before you do anything else.

 

OK, I'm not an idiot but I can't get to these dang things to remove them...WTF?? I need to remove the shifter to get my engine/transmission out.

 

Drop the crossmember, lower the tailhousing with a jack, and it will give you clearance to get to them . I am assuming you have the DS's disconnected, and your probably going to have to drop the x-fer case first....

Thats just what I would do

The what I would not do - I have a friend who cut the sheetmetal far enough to get a socket on them.... This is not what i recommend though.

 

Isn't there a c-clip around the shifter base?

 

I don't see one...?

 

Got the engine out & tranny separated. Going to pull the oil pan/pump and take a look at the bottom end. Enjoy these pics I posted while cooling off:

 

So, was there a c-clip?

How nice for you...such a sunny for the job.

Thanks for the electrical tips. I will do some inpecting of the cables and grounding. I had figured it was probably normal for the lamps to dim in such a manner, but I had to also wonder. I sometimes find what I think might be normal isn't always. My latest shifter/tranny experiences are a prime example. Shifter slop may be common, but not normal.

 

I dropped the shifter in favor of getting the engine out. I still can't the dang shifter loose from the support! I feel like a 'tard...

Here's some more pics:

Nice clean oil pickup--



Bottom end--




Shifter progression--





and tranny--



Think my muffler had a problem??!?

 

Glad to see your making some work!!

Everything looks to be in pretty good shape(visually)...

Holy Muffler - How loud was that thing? is that the top or bottom? OUCH

I just went through all 130 of your pictures. Looks like it is coming right along. Will you leave those posted on the fileserver for a while so I have a reference too.

Did you have to file your rings at all or were they all dead on?

Are you putting a Centerforce Clutch in there, or what? I hope so.

By the time you read this you should have that short block disassembled, so hopefully everything passes specs.

You got a whole lot more done on the rig than I did today.
KAT

 

Didn't get the block disassembled today; ran into a problem with my air compressor & spent too much time screwing around with it. I did get the oil pump off the engine (!).

I found out I ordered the WRONG front axle seals...(solid axle)... do I will be delayed getting the front hubs done. The kit appears to have the same bearing, though (checked 'em with the micrometer)...?

Still haven't got the dang shifter apart:




and just for anyone wondering; here's the blasted knock sensor retails for $165.00 (WTF?):




the oil pump looked really good (still had pretty decent pressure):




and I found THIS in my oil pan: (???)


I did get the exhaust pulled at least. Oh, and Katie, the pic of the muffler was the bottom rear. It's been that way for about a year...

By the way, when you tip the engine/tranny way up to get it out of the truck, you find out that THEN you should have drained the transmission FIRST...HUGE puddle of 90-weight in the middle of the driveway before I could get a bucket under it!

Got a sunburn, gonna take a shower, listen to some tunes, have a couple of drinks, and taking it easy for the rest of the evening!

 

uuuuggghh! yea, shoulda drained that first -- Gear oil is the worst smelling, feeling, hardest to clean crap!


Glad to see everything is going fairly smoothly -- Whats up with the washer in the pan, huh?! I cant even picture what that could be from....

Do you have a time-line for this project? This is not your daily driver is it? or is it?


What else, oh, do you know anything about packing the oil pump - I have read about vaseline in it, but i am curious if you just goope it in there and install or what?

Have you used that remote clamp tool yet? I want to know if you like it before I order it.. I love the idea if it works.

830 at nite and you are retiring for night already - WEAK!
j/k



Kat

 

This is my daily driver, but I'm borrowing a car long-term until I get the truck finished (great neighbore with an exta vehicle!)

Lots of ppl swear by the vaseline in the oil pump, but I'm going to go with the STP Oil Treatment...that sh!% is slipperier/gooier anything I've ever seen. No way vaseline can provide the same protection.

I've used the tool and it's GREAT! There were another couple name brand ones that were over $100 and I'm like WTF?!? I got the cheapo Craftsman model and it works fine. You can get to all kinds of out-of-the-way places with no hassle!

Hey, I spent 12 hours out there today and I'm an old fart...! Plus I have no light outside so when the sun goes down I'm done. Gonna watch a movie!\

TNR