LOL, just harassing you about quitting early. Somebody has to.

I think I will add the clamp tool to my collection. I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't retarded when you put it on the clamp.

I can't say I have ever seen/used STP...

LOL, So I need KY for my bearings, Vaseline for my oil pump, what's next.. lol

 

flavored massage oil for your knock sensor threads...

 

Well, I AM an idiot; finally figure out what the h@!! I was supposed to be pushing/turning. Here's what my bushing looked like:







WHAT bushing??!? Supposedly, it was replaced by a mechanic over a year ago...not likely!

Also, here's another look at that muffler; have you ever seen anything so pathetic?

 

Wow Great pictures. I had to stop my project .I had to go out to Montauk and set up My campsite for the summer.I needed the truck to move a trailer to my site from storage. Good luck and use some sunblock.
pete

 

damn TN im lovin the muffler, great job by the way keep it up!

 

OK! Got new pics from today--made big headway:

Pulled the clutch first...is the flywheel/pressure plate supposed to look like this??






and the clutch disc looked awfully thin to me, but I've never pulled one before. It measure 60 thousands in depth from the surfaced to the rivet, .332 in total width (sandwich). Opinions?







Rear main seal:





Block pics:




Bottom end:





Bearings/main crank/connecting rod pics:













The cylinders looked REALLY good:





Preliminary measurements show everything within spec & looking good. Hopefully, I'll only have to take the heads to the machinist. I finally found a machine shop in S. MD that looks reputable & knows what they're doing:

http://www.mmeracing.com/mmeracing/Default.aspx
asadasdf

 

You are planning to resurface the flywheel, right? That is a statement and not a question. Don't skimp here, I have learned this lesson myself.
Just do it!~

What are you doing about the clutch?


Kat

 

I'm wondering how the heck those scratches got into the flywheel/pressure plate...?? It looks like someone tried to resurface it with fifty nails...

Dang; that's all I need is to add a MarlinCrawler clutch to my costs...

 

I am not a mechanic but have done a clutch before. You must resurface at a minimum. It's like throwing new brakes pads on worn or warped rotors. Also that one picture of your fly wheel looks like you have burn marks on your fly wheel. If I am not mistaken those can often be very deep into the metal and resurfacing will not remove them. What happens is it will cause clutch chatter where the preasure plate skips across your fly wheel.

Once again I am not a mechanic but that is what I was faced with when I did a clutch job and tried to go cheap and not replace the fly wheel. I went ahead and had it resurfaced and threw it back in only to have clutch chatter. Someone else chime in on this because I could be wrong.

Jeff

 

the weird thing is the clutch was working just fine before my HG blew. I had it replaced only 60,000 miles ago..the original went 156,000 (yes replacement was an AISIN).

So far I've spent:

1. About $1000 in tools (OK, some weren't necessary, I just wanted them!)
2. @ $350 to MarlinCrawler for rebuilt calipers, bearings, seals, etc.
3. $$400 to Northern Tool for engine hoist/stand & assorted tools (again, not NEEDED, but I wanted them!!)
4. $500 to Toyota dealer for new exhaust, idler pulleys, assorted seals/hoses/etc. I still have to order some other OEM stuff I forgot (FIPG, etc.).

AND....I still have to pay the machine shop for head/valve job on two heads ($500?)

If I have to add a clutch I'm quickly running out of moolah. I hate to skimp, but I'm hittin' a wall here...

 

How does one remove freeze plugs? I'm guessing either drill a hole, put in a screw & yank 'em, or brass drift one end in until you can get hold of it..???

 

get a hammer and a punch and tap one of the sides until the freeze plug pivets open then yank it out with some pliers. i'd avoid drilling a hole due to the metal shavings that could fall in.

 

Well, checked out the pistons (new ones) & block today to ensure everything was good. All measurements are shown in " (inches) unless otherwise stated.

All pistons are 3.440, inner cylinder diameter is 3.445, leaving an oil gap of .005 (right in the middle of the standard). There was NO graduated wear from top to bottom of the cylinders~~ WOOHOO! GO synthetic oil!

Rings have proper clearance within the piston ring groove (.0023" to .0026"), piston ring end gap inside the cylinder is .013" for the #1 compression ring, .015 for the #2 compression ring (required a tiny bit of filing to bring to that spec), and .015 for the oil ring guides (again, right in the middle of the standard). This shiznit takes FOREVER!

I cleaned the block and heads to check for straightness/warpage and found none. Not even my thinnest feeler gauge would fit under the straight edge (.002)-- the max per FSM is .039. YEAH!

Here's some pics--

Cylinder I/D measurement (confirmed with inner cylinder tool, no pic):


Piston O/D:


#1 compression ring gap measurement:


FLAT FLAT FLAT head check:



(forgot to rotate that one!)

 

Well, I talked myself into replacing my CLUTCH as well; a MarlinCrawler HD unit & flywheel is on the way to me right now, mostly due to the trailer I have now puttin' a hurtin' on my clutch.

I got my heads dropped off at the machine shop (McKeown Motorsports in S. MD) yesterday. They'll be done on Saturday, then I can start puttin' her back together!

Block scrub/paint is next...

 

I have a question; are the edges of the flywheel bolt heads supposed to be ground away like this? I'm thinking NO...??





I guess it doesn't really matter as I'm replacing the flywheel & bolts, but I'm just curious why it looks like that...

 

Must have made a little noise when that happened. What were they hitting?

 

Beats the heck outta me. I never heard anything. I think that may have happened when I had the clutch replaced about a year and a half ago. My guess is they put it together & didn't have something in place. If you look closely around the inner edge of the pressure plate, you can see scuff marks...

 

 

No ideas on the flywheel bolts? Anyone ever see this before?

 

I've never seen that, wonder if the clutch disk was in backwards and the inner edge was rubbing?