Crankshaft Pulley
#1
Crankshaft Pulley
Can anyone tell me how to remove the crankshaft pulley?
I'm going to replace the seal. I think is leaking and that could mess up the alternator with all that oil being sprayed onto it.
How can I keep the pulley from moving when taking off the screw?
I'm going to replace the seal. I think is leaking and that could mess up the alternator with all that oil being sprayed onto it.
How can I keep the pulley from moving when taking off the screw?
#2
Registered User
use a breaker bar, let it come up tight on the frame rail then hit your ignition.
the motor will turn over and loosin the bolt. dont forget to pull the coil wire so the motor dont start!
the motor will turn over and loosin the bolt. dont forget to pull the coil wire so the motor dont start!
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio - Amelia is the exact place. There is no one else on this site from where I am. Seems like everyone is from Cali or Washington. I guess I need to move.
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x 2 on the braker bar and use a nice 6pt impact socket if you have it, my buddy used some junk 12pt from Wally World and stripped the bolt. The rest of the night sucked after that.
#4
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Join Date: May 2007
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another way
X2 on the breaker bar
another way is to put a large pair of vise grips on the edge of the pulley, when the vise grips come into contact with the other pulley, it will not allow the crank to turn. Be careful not to damage your pulley.
I have used this method before in a parking lot to change an oil pump when all I had was some cheapo sockets and vise grips.
another way is to put a large pair of vise grips on the edge of the pulley, when the vise grips come into contact with the other pulley, it will not allow the crank to turn. Be careful not to damage your pulley.
I have used this method before in a parking lot to change an oil pump when all I had was some cheapo sockets and vise grips.
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#8
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make sure you put the cheater on the correct side of the motor. Motor turns clockwise. ... just see ya putting the breaker bar on the wrong side of the frame rail and it swinging through and destroying everything in its path =)
but I've NEVER had to use this method.
Put the truck in gear and use a cheater bar to break the bolt.
but I've NEVER had to use this method.
Put the truck in gear and use a cheater bar to break the bolt.
#9
Registered User
2nded. Stripped one when I first got the truck. Pounded on a size smaller 12pt to get it off, still a giant PITA
#10
I will try the method you guys have recommended. Another question, does anyone know the crankshaft bolt tightenning torque specification?
I'm also thinking whether replacing the timing belt now or not since I don't have the directions to do it. I would like to replace because I'm not really sure when it was replaced. Does it need to be replaced every 60,000 miles?
I'm also thinking whether replacing the timing belt now or not since I don't have the directions to do it. I would like to replace because I'm not really sure when it was replaced. Does it need to be replaced every 60,000 miles?
#11
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Join Date: May 2007
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revive a thread!
good old thread-I do use search!-wish I had looked on here a month back doing this for the 89 MR2.
We fabbed up this special service tool imitation to limit the counterclockwise rotation of the crankshaft (lefty loosey-right to tighten) so we could use a jack handle 4' long to get enough leverage on the bolt.
The inner big hole is for the socket, the outer holes to screw a bolt into each side of the pulley. It worked!
We fabbed up this special service tool imitation to limit the counterclockwise rotation of the crankshaft (lefty loosey-right to tighten) so we could use a jack handle 4' long to get enough leverage on the bolt.
The inner big hole is for the socket, the outer holes to screw a bolt into each side of the pulley. It worked!
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