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Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer will not go inside the crankshaft issues

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Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer will not go inside the crankshaft issues

Old 05-15-2019, 07:31 AM
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Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer will not go inside the crankshaft issues

I am in the process of putting the rebuilt engine together. The problem with my 1992 pickup 22re engine is the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer will not go inside the crankshaft after I already put in the oil pump spline inside the crankshaft. I had to use an older timing chain sprocket as a wedge to force the oil pump spline inside the crankshaft using the hammer. Now the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer will not go inside the crankshaft. I feared that the crankshaft at the end (where the threaded hole is located) is ruined because I had used a hammer to force the oil pump spline go inside the crankshaft. Possibly caused some minor metal dents. Before any of this happened, the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer was abled to go inside the crankshaft easily.

What are my options here? Do I sand the end crankshaft or inside the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer or both barely enough to make sure the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer goes in? If that the case, do I use a dremel or electric drill that has sanding capabilities on metal? What about taking the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer to a metal machine shop to sand the inside of the Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer? Has anyone have this type of experience? If so, what was the results? Comments, advice or feedback is greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:53 AM
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Not knowing how much room you have, i don't know if this is a viable option
... but, if possible I'd use a file to remove any damage incurred from hammering on the crank... and not touch the damper...
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:30 AM
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Where to file?

87-4runner, Thanks for posting. I appreciated it.

Yes, I do have lots of room since engine is on the engine stand.

Filing is excellent choice. I wish I had thought of that, but you caught me first.

Filing on the edge of the crankshaft will be a good start. I am not sure what you mean by not touching the damper. Can you or anyone else be more specific? Do I also file the the top bump slot on the end of the crankshaft?

I am tempted to buy a new crankshaft pulley harmonic balance, since it is an original crankshaft pulley harmonic balance



on the 1992 pickup. Any comments on that?

I am enclosing the picture of the front end of the crankshaft at its current state. I am not sure where to file due to the pictures' lack of clarity and locating the spots where to need filing. Where do I filed at, according to the pictures I enclosed? How much filing without ruining the filed spots or locations? Do I also file inside the crankshaft pulley harmonic balance as well? If so, where about inside?
Again, thanks to all for posting and reading this thread.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:32 AM
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I forgot to add above my comments. What type and kind of file do I use for this particular job? Is there a specific name of the type of file to use?
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:08 PM
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I never did like the look of your keys; I'd pop that last one out to see if that improves your situation. If it does, get a new key.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:44 PM
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I'd go to a quality machine shop and inquire about a file they'd suggest... not ACE hardware, or Lowes
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:48 PM
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scope103m, thank you for your last message. This key thing is something I overlooked and did not know or realized about its importance. In fact, I am quite baffled/confused about this key issue. In fact, I never heard of it before until you mentioned earlier in this thread.

So I did my research on this key issue and there is very little information out there as to how to remove these keys and its locations. Can you please elaborate this key thing? What is the correct technical term of this key? Where is its location? Is it on the the inside hole of the harmonic balancer pulley? Is it the "bump" on the crankshaft's end? What kind of tool is needed to remove these keys? Where to buy replacement key and its part number? How many keys are there anyway? Is there a step-by-step removal and replacement process/instructions? Sorry to ask so many questions but I am not familiar with this key issue at all. Your and others response to my concerns is greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:52 PM
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87-4runner, thanks for your comments. I appreciated it. I keep that in mind in case if I have to look into it.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:28 PM
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First off, your pictures are so bad that I can't really tell what your problem may or may not be.
Second, the key is a "woodruff key" and probably looks like this:


The rounded side fits in a slot in your crankshaft and is a tight fit. It could also be rectangular instead of half moon shaped. You can usually remove them with a punch and a hammer, tap against the end facing out and it will come up and out.
Putting a new one in is just a matter of tapping it down into the slot and making absolutely sure that it sits level from front to back and all the way down in the slot without deforming it AT ALL.
You may be able to file off burrs or deformations to help with installation of your harmonic balancer, but you don't want to make it any narrower causing your harmonic balancer to possibly shift one way or the other.
Your harmonic balancer may be a press fit, it has been a while since I pulled one on a 22RE, some brands are a tight slip on fit, some need a puller to get them off and an installer to put them on.
Often you can get away with a block of wood and tapping it on with a hammer until you get it far enough to pull it on the rest of the way with the crank bolt, but you have to be sure it is going on square or you will gall either the balancer or crank or push the woodruff key out of it's slot.

Last edited by akwheeler; 05-15-2019 at 05:29 PM.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:37 PM
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The key is the rectangular "bump" on the shaft that fits into the rectangular (wait for it ....) key way in the spline, the harmonic balancer, etc. These are woodruff keys, so the part toward the shaft is half-moon shaped. https://www.harborfreight.com/80-pie...ent-67584.html You just stick a small screwdriver under the key at one end, and pry it out. If you really want to buy a replacement the part number is 90280-05005 https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18381 , but woodruff keys are standard parts and can be picked up anywhere. I wouldn't be surprised if the HF set had the right size.

When the key (or the shaft) gets "dinged," it can raise some metal only a few thousandths of an inch. But enough to feel (and in your case, to see). You can just lay the key on some 400 grit wet sand paper, and clean it up. Theoretically, you can sand off enough so that it fits too loosely, but you'd have to be at it for longer than my arm would hold out. (Okay, for a key, you're only going to swish it around for a few seconds and the whole side will be uniformly smooth.)

I recommended you use the same wet sandpaper on the shaft, and probably on the inside of the HB. You're not trying to change the shape, just knock off those tiny, tiny raised parts. If you have a big dent (like someone hit the shaft with a hammer), you might have to use a file. You're going to be judicious, so any fine 6" file would work okay.
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:11 PM
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akwheeler and scope103, thank you so very much for your quick responses in regards to this woodruff key thing. I did looked into this issue further, deeper and more detail information. Heck, nothing was mentioned in FSM about this woodruff key. However, both you guys gave me much more detailed information that I need to know and understand. Just in time to do more research and getting ready to work on this woodruff key.

I apologized for the poor quality pictures I posted. I am not a camera buff but I am willing to learn and provide better and quality pictures.

I am very grateful to you all. You guys ROCKED!!

I will keep you all posted on my progress as I continue this learning experience.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:44 PM
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Update: I did some research on the woodruff key. The correct Toyota Part No.: 90280-05010, not the part number 90280-05005 as mentioned above. This is based on my VIN vehicle identification number. In addition, there are 3 same part numbers that goes on the crankshaft with different names doing the same thing: timing chain spocket woodruff key, oil pump woodruff key and the third and last one is the harmonic balancer pulley woodruff key. Interesting, huh?

First thing I am going to do is try to file it down to see if the harmonic balancer pulley with sandpaper as mentioned along with the file. If that does not work, then try to pop out the woodruff key using the type of methods as mentioned above/previous post. Stay tune.
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Old 05-16-2019, 04:50 AM
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Don't guess! Test!

Your local shop (Fastenal, for example) has machinist bluing compound (Blue dykem) you can paint this onto the crank shaft and key then place the balancer against it (might need a gental tap with say a rubber mallet or a firm hand strike) and see where it rubs the blue off. This will tell you exactly what material needs removed from the key or shaft.
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:32 AM
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You might try this first before filling...
Emery cloth is a type of coated abrasive that has emery glued to a cloth backing. It is used for hand metalworking. It may be sold in sheets or in narrow rolls, typically 25 or 50 mm wide, often described as "emery tape"
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:15 AM
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Couple years ago when I had my 22RE tore apart for chain and head gasket, I had to use a puller to get off the harmonic balancer. It slid on easy when I re-installed it.

I would buy some new woodruff keys, and use emery cloth to clean up the end of that shaft.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU View Post
Don't guess! Test!

Your local shop (Fastenal, for example) has machinist bluing compound (Blue dykem) you can paint this onto the crank shaft and key then place the balancer against it (might need a gental tap with say a rubber mallet or a firm hand strike) and see where it rubs the blue off. This will tell you exactly what material needs removed from the key or shaft.
Co_94_PU. thank you for your comments. Is this bluing compound (Blue dykem) is similar or same as Permatex Prussian Blue Part # 80038?

Unfortunately, Fastenal used to be here at my location but moved away. However there are several auto parts stores that carries Permatex Prussian Blue Part # 80038. Interest stuff to know!!
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:46 AM
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87-4runner, thanks for your post. I will definitely look into this Emery Cloth.



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Old 05-16-2019, 07:48 AM
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by snippits View Post
Couple years ago when I had my 22RE tore apart for chain and head gasket, I had to use a puller to get off the harmonic balancer. It slid on easy when I re-installed it.

I would buy some new woodruff keys, and use emery cloth to clean up the end of that shaft.
what grade to use? Emery is rated on the average grit size, glued to the backing. Common sizes are, from coarse to fine: 40, 46, 54, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120, 180, 220, 320, F, and FF. A 46 or 54 grade cloth is used on roughly filed work, while 220 to 320 grit cloth will give a good polish.
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:22 AM
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I picked up the Prussian Blue, Non-Drying, Improper Fitting Dye Part #: BK 80038Permanex and a very fine sandpaper 1 piece today. It was fast due to the autoparts store has them both, Stay tune.
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